Modding the Sennheiser pc350 headset
Jan 13, 2011 at 4:09 PM Post #317 of 508
I also modded my PC350, worked brilliantly for while, but after a while, left side went completely silent. When i tried to push that small enclosure where speaker is, it gave some lifesigns, but none anymore, so all i can say this mod maybe broke my headphones. I bet this brokes my warranty?
 
I made 2 holes just like in this picture http://assets.head-fi.org/d/d5/d5818625_pc350_mod_1.jpg
 
Any ideas?
 
Feb 3, 2011 at 6:51 PM Post #318 of 508
Hey, so I just got my PC 350s, and after using them for about two months, I decided to take a look inside these things, with the possibility of me doing the Hero Mod. When I opened them up though, I immediately noticed something different. Sennheiser must be watching us, because it seems they did their own version of the Hero Mod. That plain back panel on the back of the driver housing is gone, and now the driver is completely open. I guess I don't have to void my warranty after all. 
biggrin.gif

 

 
Feb 3, 2011 at 6:55 PM Post #319 of 508
Tubbe, when you modded your headset, there is a chance you could have loosened the solder on one of the wires on the left side. If I were you, I would open it up and check all of your wires.
 
Quote:
When i tried to push that small enclosure where speaker is, it gave some lifesigns

This especially makes me think that it is a loose connection, since when you pushed it, that probably gave the connection a bit of contact.
 
Feb 16, 2011 at 1:43 PM Post #320 of 508
I was hopping someone could provide clear instructions (or even a youtube video) as to how to disassemble the PC 350 headset. I've been able to remove the ear pads that cover the screws, and I also removed all the visible screws. Unfortunately I am unable to detach the speaker from the cup that holds the speaker. I believe there might be some glue between both parts. Can anyone confirm this?
 
Any help would be much appreciated!
 
darthsmile.gif

 
Mar 3, 2011 at 6:17 PM Post #322 of 508


Quote:
Hey, so I just got my PC 350s, and after using them for about two months, I decided to take a look inside these things, with the possibility of me doing the Hero Mod. When I opened them up though, I immediately noticed something different. Sennheiser must be watching us, because it seems they did their own version of the Hero Mod. That plain back panel on the back of the driver housing is gone, and now the driver is completely open. I guess I don't have to void my warranty after all. 
biggrin.gif

 
 


I don't want to disappoint you, but your headset does not look like the original 350. The speaker is supposed to be totally different, while that one in your headset does not have any openings at all, it looks smaller and there are no vertical reinforcing bars closer to the outer side. The quality of the cup itself is also suspicious. That yellow substance at the edge of the cup - is that some kind of glue?

Either manufacturer modified  this model, but I doubt this,  or you are an unlucky owner of the fake 350's.
 
Mar 3, 2011 at 6:23 PM Post #323 of 508


Quote:
I was hopping someone could provide clear instructions (or even a youtube video) as to how to disassemble the PC 350 headset. I've been able to remove the ear pads that cover the screws, and I also removed all the visible screws. Unfortunately I am unable to detach the speaker from the cup that holds the speaker. I believe there might be some glue between both parts. Can anyone confirm this?
 
Any help would be much appreciated!
 
darthsmile.gif


I don't recommend removing the inner cup, I disassembled mine, and indeed inner cup that holds the speaker is kinda glued, but 1) it's rather strong glue 2) there is great risk to damage the speaker as it comes too close and 3) there is no need to remove it for the Hero mod. Moreover, at all circumstances it should stay intact. a few holes will be enough.
Of course I mean the inner cup, not the outer one which is easily removed after removing the screws, Note, there should be some hidden screw as well - you need to remove cover first.  
 
 
Mar 10, 2011 at 8:04 PM Post #324 of 508
I have successfully performed this mod using a butane torch and a common nail with one hole being on the side of the cup, instead of the top. I must say that the presence of Lows is very noticeable now. It also no longer sounds like I' listening through a soup can :D
 
Will using cotton help the quality of the Low's at all? At the moment is is very punchy and noticable, not overwhelming at all.
 
Thank you for this!
 
Apr 3, 2011 at 5:42 PM Post #326 of 508
I tried to even slight violence to that side of the cup open mic. I ended up, however, that I put headphones on a heap and I ask you. So I opened all the six screws on the tapebelow. It will end, but be consistent and will remain closed no matter how twisted.
I'd be very grateful if someone tells you what's wrong.

Sorry for the bad English, I translate this with Google Translate.
 
Apr 4, 2011 at 11:59 PM Post #327 of 508
Wow, just tried this on my PC350.  Amazing what an effect a small hole has... Using some HD650s as reference so it's not just in my mind.  The PC350 started out sounding very anemic and bass light, but crisp and clear.  Now they are more bass heavy than the HD650s.  A touch too much actually as there is a bit of a hall effect now.  I got a bit carried away and put 4 small holes in each side.  I've covered two up and added some cotton wool, but it's still a touch too much comparing back and forth.
 
One thing I noticed in comparison to the open back HD650 is that the sound changes quite markedly as you move the speaker towards and away from your ear.  Without the mod, I could press the cans into my head quite hard and get an acceptable level of bass.  This was at the point of my earlobe hitting the grill though.  Pull them away slightly and they immediately sound tinny.  The HD650 don't change in sound signature nearly as much, mostly it is just the volume that changes as you move them away or towards the ear.  This implies that tuning a sealed can is much more tricky and will change based on head and ear shape as well as the condition of the pads.
 
Some tips:
 
1. There are 2 screws hidden under the foam sticker on the left side.  Took me a while to find the second one.
2. Be careful with the wire that exits the left speaker at the bottom. I put some stress on this trying to find the above screw and once I did open it found that the wires had separated from the sleeve inside.
3. There's a tiny rubber pad at the top of each driver that softens the impact against the headband frame.  This is held in place by the driver assembly and so is free to fall out as soon as you pull the driver away.  Find this and put it to one side before you lose it.  If your driver assembly does not go back in easily, you might find it has fallen out and is in the way of the driver assembly :)
 
One final thing - there is what looks like a filter on the PCB for each driver (some resistors and capacitors).  You can see a separate circuit for the mic and then sections for each of the left and right drivers.  I'm sure this has some effect on the sound vs what is in the other headphones that use the same driver.  This is also something to consider when re-cabling.
 
Still listening and I do have too much bass now...
 
4. make one small hole at a time and then listen for a bit, it's easier to not make the hole than to try and seal it up again :)
 
After another couple of days...
 
5. Too much pressure on the inside of the outer cup will make the middle part (the piece with Sennheiser written on it) separate over time.  It is glued on with a type of glue that remains sticky and can be pulled apart.  So, don't use too much wadding back there, or allow that piece of rubber I mentioned in 3. to fall into the back of the cup and put pressure on it.  Unless you want to go for an open headphone design :)
 
Apr 21, 2011 at 12:36 AM Post #328 of 508
Appologies if this is the wrong place but seeing as this is about the only active discussion point for the PC350s I thought I'd post here.
 
My housemate sat on my 350s and broke the small peice of plastic which allows the headphone to swivel. Is there anywhere that stocks this as a replacement part and what's the likelyhood of some help as to the easiest method of repair?
 
To make things a little clearer, due to me not having a camera at the moment, it can be found under this panel and the point at which it has broken is circled.

 
Thanks in advance.
 
Apr 21, 2011 at 10:33 AM Post #329 of 508
Moley, i once put a screw in place of a swivel on a vintage stax that had broken- its possible that might work
 
Apr 24, 2011 at 8:23 PM Post #330 of 508
I'm doing the mod on these things, but I can't get the left earpiece off! How do I get it off? It seems as the plastic piece thats holding the wire in is preventing me from opening it. Can anyone be of assistance?
 

 

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