[Makiah S]

Bout 2 by one of these tuesday, lets see how much better it is than mu silly little indeed

 

[KimLaroux]

Quote:

Hi. 
I am not able to get capacitors mentioned in the original design "539-150104K100AA". Would it be ok if I will get these?
In the original design it says "film capacitor 0.1uf - 0.22uF, 63V or higher". The one I want to buy seems to meet these criterias but they don't look like original ones. 
It is safe to use them? I am building 12SR7 version.
Thanks. 

 
For the price they ask, I'd recommend this instead:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Capacitor-0-022uF-22nF-630V-DC-Polypropylene-Axial-Valve-Vintage-Metal-Film-/190787080008
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-0-22uF-100V-Wima-MKS4-Metallized-Poly-Film-Capacitor-Radial-10mm-/170921769646
 
Cheaper, and better suited for coupling audio signals.

 

[scootsit]

Tomb also sells those vintage paper in oil caps over on beezar. They are great for bypassing the output caps.

 

[ProTofik]

The one from first link are 0.022uF. Is that correct? I thought that they have to be between 0.1uF - 0.22uF.

 

[KimLaroux]

Quote:

The one from first link are 0.022uF. Is that correct? I thought that they have to be between 0.1uF - 0.22uF.

 
AH! You're right! Sorry I thought they were .22uf. Ebay's search is just that lame.
 
There's also these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-22uF-220nF-630V-Axial-Audio-Capacitors-5-pcs-for-Valve-Amplifiers-UK-STOCK-/121065832139
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ICEL-MPW-0-22uF-10-400V-Capacitor-/270748103302
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-pair-2pcs-of-Mundorf-MCap630-Capacitors-3-630V-all-values-/160972125059
 
Personally I used the last ones. But they may be overkill in this design. And if you consider shipping, they are expensive in this listing.

 

[ProTofik]

Thanks but I've already ordered these.
 
My case is ready so once I will receive all the parts I will start making it. 

 

[DudeMyCans]

I fixed the problem with the right hand channel on my MSSH. After some time troubleshooting it turned out to be a dodgy connection to one of the pins on the tube.

I now have it running of the output from my Roksan Caspian CD player and it sounds superb. Drives the Beyer DT 880's really well.

 

[tdubl07]

Hey guys,long time lurker on this thread and decided to finally build one. This is my first tube build and have to say it was a blast. Thanks to everyone who constantly update this thread with all of the updated info. I was gonna attach a couple pics but it's not letting me. Oh well I'll try back later.

 

[tdubl07]

OK here she is

 

[Captn Dave]

Congratulations on your first! That heat sink looks great. Does it run warm?

 

[tdubl07]

Quote:

Congratulations on your first! That heat sink looks great. Does it run warm?

Thanks man, it runs a warm but not ultra hot. I can set my hand on it and it doesn't get to terribly hot. It is warm though for sure

 Question for you guys. The bass on my amp seems to be lacking with my dt990 pros compared to my little cmoy bb. Wondering if I upped the output caps if that would help some. It's definitely less bassy than my little cmoy, which I thought it would be the other way around. I'm gonna have a go at the millet mini max from beezar sometime soon so I can compare. Since it's my first tube amp I've ever heard and built, I'm not sure how they compare to solid state. Thanks again to everyone, this is just a blast building and tinkering. I love it!

 

[Grumus]

Does anyone know if there's a switch that goes:
on1+on2   top
on1          middle
off            bottom 

Would be nice to have on1= amp power and on2=L+R output. Would make it easier to use with plugged in phones. Just wait 30sek in the middle for start up and instant shutdown. All three pole switches I have seen have been on-off-on.
 
Quote:

I was gonna attach a couple pics but it's not letting me.

You need to post 5-6 times before you can post pics. Don't forget the inside pics!  

 

 

[tdubl07]

Oh the inside is a disaster. I need to clean it up before pics. Haha

 

[tdubl07]

Does anyone know if there's a switch that goes:
on1+on2   top
on1          middle
off            bottom 

Would be nice to have on1= amp power and on2=L+R output. Would make it easier to use with plugged in phones. Just wait 30sek in the middle for start up and instant shutdown. All three pole switches I have seen have been on-off-on.
 
Quote:

I was gonna attach a couple pics but it's not letting me.

You need to post 5-6 times before you can post pics. Don't forget the inside pics!  

 

how about just add dpst switch for the headphone jack. I just swing into radio shack yesterday and did that myself. Turn on the amp then turn on my headphones. Same with powering off. Just an idea

 

[the_equalizer]

Quote:

Thanks man, it runs a warm but not ultra hot. I can set my hand on it and it doesn't get to terribly hot. It is warm though for sure

 Question for you guys. The bass on my amp seems to be lacking with my dt990 pros compared to my little cmoy bb. Wondering if I upped the output caps if that would help some. It's definitely less bassy than my little cmoy, which I thought it would be the other way around. I'm gonna have a go at the millet mini max from beezar sometime soon so I can compare. Since it's my first tube amp I've ever heard and built, I'm not sure how they compare to solid state. Thanks again to everyone, this is just a blast building and tinkering. I love it!

Congratulations on your build! It looks like quite a neat job!
 
Your Cmoy BB is intentionally amplifying the bass frequencies more than it amplifies the rest of the audio spectrum; it is boosting the bass. On the other hand the SSMH is not intentionally emphasizing any area of the audio band.
 
Increasing the value of the output caps in the SSMH will only increase the extension of the amplifier's frequency response, it will not increase the apparent volume of the bass frequencies.
 
While it is certainly possible to add filtering circuits to the SSMH so that it boosts the bass, it should be more practical to check if your source offers equalization and boost the bass there.
 
cheers!