[uelover]

Haha I can sell you but wouldn't it be easier to buy from ebay?
 
This is the one i am using (OPA627AU)
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-BB-OPA627-SOIC-DIP-AdaptorAD827-LM358-NE5532-x2-/370378336421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563c44e8a5
 
Saw this interesting opamp as well (OPA627AM) that cost 4 times more:
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-Mono-Op-amp-module-NE5532-OPA627AM-OPA627-/350389651916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194d9c9cc
 
Quote:

So sell me one I'm serious. Your config makes it even more ideal for me since I don't have to source for a Browndog to host the OPA672 opamps. Let me know. Cheers dude!
 

 

[etteoh]

You see, I'd rather buy from you since you already have an extra that you're not using. Plus I won't need to burn it in And...I don't have to live with the question of whether the OPA627s are genuine or not as I know a lot of those in China are not the real deal. By the way, I'm no BB expert but usually the markings on their chips are hard to read. The genuine ones at least. I have a genuine OPA2107 and that has the same trait too so the one that is being sold on eBay HK is a bit questionable.
 
Oooh, the metal can one looks so good but I doubt if the adaptor that they are mounted on will fit into the socket of the D1 nicely as there are caps on both sides of it. A bit of a deal breaker.
 
So back to your OPA627s, as I said, if you're willing to sell, I'm willing to buy Let me know. Thanks dude!
 
Quote:

Haha I can sell you but wouldn't it be easier to buy from ebay?
 
This is the one i am using (OPA627AU)
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-BB-OPA627-SOIC-DIP-AdaptorAD827-LM358-NE5532-x2-/370378336421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563c44e8a5
 
Saw this interesting opamp as well (OPA627AM) that cost 4 times more:
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-Mono-Op-amp-module-NE5532-OPA627AM-OPA627-/350389651916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194d9c9cc
 
Quote:

So sell me one I'm serious. Your config makes it even more ideal for me since I don't have to source for a Browndog to host the OPA672 opamps. Let me know. Cheers dude!
 

 

 

[uelover]

haha pm sent to you.
 
i am now listening to my speaker through D1 (Bendix 6385 + LME49720HA) and it sounded awesomely good!
 
The problem with WE396A is the rolled-off highs. The problem with Raytheon tube is the recessed mids. The problem with GE 5 stars is lack of details. (they each has their own strengths too)
 
Bendix tube solved all that and is really a well balanced tube! Switching to it from WE396A, I am enjoying the beautiful treble once more. LME49720HA works like a charm in the DAC section too. It is detailed, neutral and sounds fuller and clearer than LT1364.
 
LME49720HA pairs well with A1 too through SS out...

 

[etteoh]

Got your PM dude and sent you a reply also Looking forward to close the transaction with you soon
 
Great to know the LME49720HA works wonders for you on the DAC. After a lot of deliberation, I took the LME49720HA out from the headphone section (temporarily of course) and slot it into the DAC section of the D1. Had it connected to my stereo rig and man, it is smooth. Real smooth! I am certain the metal can is hard to beat. Regardless of whether it is used in the headphone section or the DAC. I placed another order for a spare metal can Right now, it's gone back to the headphone section since I primarily use cans for my listening. 
 
I might consider getting an A1 for synergy purposes.
 
Quote:

haha pm sent to you.
 
i am now listening to my speaker through D1 (Bendix 6385 + LME49720HA) and it sounded awesomely good!
 
The problem with WE396A is the rolled-off highs. The problem with Raytheon tube is the recessed mids. The problem with GE 5 stars is lack of details. (they each has their own strengths too)
 
Bendix tube solved all that and is really a well balanced tube! Switching to it from WE396A, I am enjoying the beautiful treble once more. LME49720HA works like a charm in the DAC section too. It is detailed, neutral and sounds fuller and clearer than LT1364.
 
LME49720HA pairs well with A1 too through SS out...

 

[uelover]

Haha let me know if you're interested in A1 =)

 

[reiserFS]

I have two Audio-GD Sun HDAMs that are free to a new home, that is, you only pay for shipping. As I and another user have written much earlier, these take the D1 to another level.

 

[etteoh]

Have heard a lot about the A1 and particularly like how it synergizes with the D1. Might consider getting this guy in a month or two. Will let you know if I decide to go this route and we can do business again if you're letting go of yours. And if you are, do drop me a PM on the price you are looking at
 
Quote:

Haha let me know if you're interested in A1 =)

 

[etteoh]

Holy! Talk about a great deal...if only the casing need not be modified to fit the HDAMs.
 
Quote:

I have two Audio-GD Sun HDAMs that are free to a new home, that is, you only pay for shipping. As I and another user have written much earlier, these take the D1 to another level.

 

[uelover]

oh my i wanna try out that HDAMs!!
 
etteoh i have a mullard tube coming my way so i will see how they sound before deciding. if i ever do sell, i will throw in all the 6AK5 for free =D

 

[etteoh]

Quick...go get in touch with ReiserFS before somebody else whisk them.
 
Mullard...nice. The Mullards are very fine sounding tubes. Used right, they can give your gears an excellent sonic boost...and you're making it harder for me to resist by doing the freebies thing
 
Quote:

oh my i wanna try out that HDAMs!!
 
etteoh i have a mullard tube coming my way so i will see how they sound before deciding. if i ever do sell, i will throw in all the 6AK5 for free =D

 

[ninjikiran]

Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
 
Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.

 

[uelover]

just curious, spanky did add LME49720 in the list of 'bad opamps' on the first page of the condensed FAQ. o.O
I am seeing Little Dot M1+ Gold Edition using dual LME49720HA in its circuit for headphones/iems.
 
Quote:

Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
 
Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.

 

[ninjikiran]

For the headphone output, but the kind of offset we are talking about here is well within the limits of headphone amp inputs.  I doubt the offset would damage an amp(I think someone already answered this) or even effect the resulting SQ.
 
But if you use it on headphones directly you wish burning them out over time. 
Quote:

just curious, spanky did add LME49720 in the list of 'bad opamps' on the first page of the condensed FAQ. o.O
I am seeing Little Dot M1+ Gold Edition using dual LME49720HA in its circuit for headphones/iems.
 
Quote:

Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
 
Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.

 

 

[uelover]

yes i know someone said that before for the buring of headphone over a period of time.
 
Wouldn't that mean the user of little dot M1+ gold edition would get their headphone burned at a faster rate since their amp has got 2 of those lme49720ha unless their circuit is better designed to decrease the dc offset of the opamps?
 
Spanky stated that the DC offset of LME49720HA is 120/180mv.... judging from the result below... our power may trip xD
 
 
Quote:
'Zero DC is ideal , some is tolerable and too much is bad news. No decent amp should have any more than 20 mV of DC offset at its output.  If the amp has a big DC offset on its output it will cause a shift in the position of the headphone diaphragms which will degrade the quality of the sound and will
prevent the diaphragm from working optimally. If the DC is very high it may even fry the coil, causing expensive damage to your favourite headphones.....   
...... If you cannot get the DC below say 20mV then it will be necessary to fit DC blocking output caps in series with the left and right outputs. Something like a 470uF non polar capacitor connected in series between the amps output and headphone socket will block the DC.'
 
Another source:
'0 - 15mV: Damn good!! If you read '0V', you may have a capacitor output, or your meter is set wrong

16mV - 50mV: An acceptable value, especially at the lower end of this range. 2nd harmonic distortion is probably twice to four times what manufacturer's spec calls for at higher frequencies. Probably not audible, as the distortion is mostly in the upper octaves. At the upper end of this range I begin to raise an eyebrow.

50 - 85mV: Something is certainly amiss, and while this is not enough to put your speakers or equipment in jeopardy, the amp is running nowhere near where it should. I'd venture to guess that most of the DC-coupled amps that are in use by forum members here fall into this range.

100mV to ?: A high enough voltage will cause the DC protection to kick in. This happens at a level determined by the designer, but is usually equivalent to about a diode drop (600mV)or so. Needless to say, if you are listening to an amp with 100mV or more of DC offset, you have no idea what the amp really is supposed to sound like. Indeed, some amps without a differential input are actually designed to have a bit of DC at the outputs, but this is triple-rare, and I don't think anyone here owns one. (in my book it's piss-poor design, but if you can sell it WTH..)'
 

 

[ninjikiran]

Yea, which headphones have no caps between the amp output and itself.  But headphone amps have caps on their inputs and generally on their output as well.  Which makes my biased 49720 feasible in my amp.
 
That guy is using them on his dac output so I doubt it triggered any safe-mode conditions if it works.  The maverick on the other hand I guess has weak output caps for the HPA output.