[n_maher]

Yes, your STEPS set up to output 27V will work just fine for the Millett and the M³. I've run the exact setup (well 26.5V) on both and neither has suffered one bit. Somewhere in this thread AMB describes the voltage drops that you get during the circuit of the M3 so that 27V is actually safe for the 8610s since they see at least 1V less at the chip.

HTH,

Nate

 

[rjkdivin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaypetermen I would like to configure the STEPs to be able to power both amps (one at a time of course) without changing the voltage. Would 27VDC be a good setpoint for both of the stock amps?

I'm not recommending anyone actually do this on purpose, but I can say from experience that the AD8610 can handle some excess voltage. When I was having a problem blowing the regulators on my STEPS due to current spikes, the voltage to the M3 would jump up to about 30v after the regulator blew (using a 15v + 15v transformer). I didn't attempt to run it that way, but the AD8610s did survive until I powered off. On the other hand, when I did the same thing with a 24v + 24v transformer, the voltage would climb to about 48v after the PS regulator blew, and the AD8610s did not survive. One of them actually blew its top off.

 

[amb]

Q5+, Q5- and D1 will each drop some voltage (totalling about 2.5V), so if you use a 27V PSU, the actual voltage "seen" by the opamp will be about 24.5V so all will be well with the AD8610.

 

[Ob3ron]

I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount the neutrik locking jack to the front of the Parmetals group buy case... I realize i could buy a 22mm (0.945") drill bit but that's probably gonna set me back 15-20 bucks. I bought a dremel with 70+ accessories last weekend so I'm wondering if theres any way I can use that to make the hole.

EDIT: Okay, nevermind.

Quote:

larger stuff like iec inlets and 20mm+ holes you can also get punche's that will do the trick i just got a 25mm punch for my neutrik combo jacks, it wasnt too pricey at all, a lot cheaper then the equivalent drill bit. have yet to run it though so i can't tell you what the results are like yet.

-skyscraper

Quote:

I use stepped drill bits for the larger holes....I have 3 different ones for different hole diameters up to 1 1/4". For rectangular holes, I use files to remove the corners after drilling the center as large as possible. The stepped drill bits are available at most hardware stores, but you can save some money on Ebay where you will find a large variety for sale.

-rjkdivin

I'll look into these.

 

[skyskraper]

go the punch

cutting big holes with slow high torque (ie: twisting a pair of wrenches on a punch) is a lot more controlled then high speed drill bits that are temperamental at the best of times. havent installed my combo's on my m3 yet, but played round with cutting AL and the punch works nicely. i found the cost of my 25mm hand punch was significantly less then a decent quality 25mm drill bit/hole saw.

 

[CPL593H]

Where's a good place to buy punches online?
thanks

___________________

Don't get your hair on fire.

 

[skyskraper]

i believe in the USA digikey or mouse carry them. past that there's ebay. i got mine from RS components in oz when i was picking up some other parts, but id reccomend calling b2b tool suppliers in your area. heaps in perth, west aust, had them in stock for around the same price as i paid at RS.

 

[CPL593H]

I'm pretty excited to see a service like Front Panel Express. This could make the M3 project a lot easier and the final product look a lot better. Are there any M3 photos that use a panel from this service on the site?

 

[n_maher]

Check the M3 gallery at amb's site here and look at steinchen's beautiful M3 w/ a panel by FPE. Be warned though, they are not cheap.

HTH,

Nate

 

[thrice]

I've got an M cubed hooked up with Solen fast caps in the C6 position (tombstoned to make room) and the results are quite nice...smoother sound overall from the wimas (it's a subtle difference though)

Just thought I'd throw that out there.
thrice

 

[SDA]

My M³ is all set up, but not working properly... for some reason, with a WM080 plugged in (all I have until I finish my STEPS, unfortunately), voltage between pins 4 and 7 of each opamp socket is .5V, and it shows (the LED's emitter barely glows). Resistance between pins 4 and 7 is four point something mega-ohms. What could be causing this?

 

[skyskraper]

what voltage do you get across the -+ voltage input pins? what about between the in and out and the out and common pins of the TLE?

 

[SDA]

+- pins: 2.2xV.

in and com: about .5V, same as between pins 4 and 7 of opamps.

com and out: about .25V.

It seems like the amp is just working as it would if it were fed 2.2xV or so, but I know this WM080 puts out a little over 24V with an open circuit. Could the M³ be stressing the thing THAT much?

 

[n_maher]

Have you double checked the elpac to see if it is, in fact, putting out 24V? If it is start working your way down the power supply section of the amp checking voltages as you go, you might find the fault there. If your LED is barely lighting something is definitely not right.

You also might start a new thread and post some pictures of the amp to see if someone can find something you've overlooked.

Nate

 

[wistily]

Do you use an external power supply with a power jack ? I had similars problems with my m3, and i found out, that i had soldered the female jack incorrectly: there were three pins on it, and i soldered the minus on the wrong "ground" (i still don't undestand why there are three pins on these connectors and what does the third pin).