[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

Originally Posted by danielhowk /img/forum/go_quote.gif

u think h6 subwoofer is a good subwoofer for that price ?

 

At the time I said it I basically meant that I haven't heard it so I can't be sure, but Swans does have a solid reputation.

 

However I'm looking at the rear panel right now it looks like it was made for a soundcard to provide it with a 5.1 input with crossovers already applied (ie it doesn't have any controls for it), and then I have no idea whether it outputs a line level signal controllable by its "Master Volume" knob, or whether it has a 5ch amplifier in there but uses RCA/coaxial type connection, to drive multimedia speakers without needing its own amp. Alternately, you can splice the cable to hook up a passive speaker, but the Master Volume located on the subwoofer plate amp is a very inconvenient spot.

 

This Dayton subwoofer might be better value, plus it's 8in.

 

[GreenBow]

I think it depends on your source as to what should be recommended. I assume you mean you are wanting a speaker kit to attach to your PC.
 
However the issue is that the PC sound card or laptop sound card will likely be not very good. Therefor you might be better getting in intermediary DAC and then speakers. Or an active pair of speakers with DAC built in - run from digital out on you PC. (Thus by-passing you PC sound card.) 
 
At the top end of your budget for active PC speakers are the Ruark Audio MR1. Or the Q-Acoustics Q-BT3. Or lower priced is the Warfedale DS-1.
 
Or you could get a DAC like the Audioquest Dragonfly v1.2, and then tack some speakers on the line out. 

 

[radmanhs]

I have a creative titanium hd, so I don't have to worry about the onboard sound card. All I have to worry about is the quality of the speakers and amp if I need to get one.

 

[GreenBow]

I suggest the Ruark Audio MR1 since they have one analogue input. You can steam via Bluetooth to them also. They loose a little bass unless you back them up close to wall though, like within about 30cm. However the reviews of them are that they are unequalled at the price or under. They are only 2.0 though but I prefer that anyway myself. Unless you perceive yourself in the future wanting more connectivity like an optical connection for a TV, they are best.
 
They will have plenty of bass but will lack a little sub-bass compared to a sub. They have true hi-fi sound though. Their size is an absolute winner for students, and no sub under the desk either.
 
I have a sub on my kit and I wish I hadn't. I wish it wasn't there when I want to stretch my legs at my desk. I am looking very closely at the two suggestions I made to you, to buy for myself. Either that or I might get a Denon D-M40DAB. Then pair that with some passive speakers like Monitor Audio Bronze 2s. Then attach my external DAC to it which is connected to my PC. Gaming nirvana, and true music. The Denon D-M40DAB has the added bonus of playing audio from USB sticks. Therefor no need for PC on when listening.
 
There is also the Audioengine A5+ that should be on anyone's short list. If you look at these make sure to review the A5+, as they are an upgrade over the A5. Have fun and good luck choosing.

 

[PurpleAngel]

I have a Creative Titanium-HD, so I don't have to worry about the on-board sound card. All I have to worry about is the quality of the speakers and amp if I need to get one.

 
Hopefully you disabled the motherboard's on-board audio, in the BIOS, when you installed the Titanium-HD.

 

[genclaymore]

I have a pair of JBL LSR 305's that I use for my 2.0 speaker setup, they work great. The sound very nice with DnB,Dubstep,Techno as well as jazz and work good with other types of music genres too. I find they have very good bass which is good enough for me, but of course a subwoofer would still be a addition if you feel you might need one later on.I see plenty of deals for a pair on ebay for 205-300 and I gotten a good deal on mine.  The speakers are big and each need their own wall plug and the volume control's are on the rear under the HF Trim and LF trim settings. The JBL 305's have TRS 1/4 and XLR connections,to plug them into a sound card you need a XLR to RCA connections or TRS To RCA connection to plug them into your Titanium HD RCA out, monoprice do carry the cables. 
 
I find they do a great job at filling the room up with sound I would say I had mine for almost 4 weeks and  the sound I don't know how to put into words, but it sound very wonderful.

 

[danielhowk]

  I think it depends on your source as to what should be recommended. I assume you mean you are wanting a speaker kit to attach to your PC.
 
However the issue is that the PC sound card or laptop sound card will likely be not very good. Therefor you might be better getting in intermediary DAC and then speakers. Or an active pair of speakers with DAC built in - run from digital out on you PC. (Thus by-passing you PC sound card.) 
 
At the top end of your budget for active PC speakers are the Ruark Audio MR1. Or the Q-Acoustics Q-BT3. Or lower priced is the Warfedale DS-1.
 
Or you could get a DAC like the Audioquest Dragonfly v1.2, and then tack some speakers on the line out. 

im using asus hero z170 motherboard . not sure if the onboard soundcard is good enough. compared to a DAC or is audioquest dragonfly v1.2 better than DAC or my motherboard ?

 

[Ethan Groover]

Klipsch Promedia 2.1 owner here. They are fantastic; the best value for money pc speakers you can get IMO. I would just recommend if you get them that you turn the sub-woofer down much lower than the little dot they have on there for reference.

 

[danielhowk]

  Klipsch Promedia 2.1 owner here. They are fantastic; the best value for money pc speakers you can get IMO. I would just recommend if you get them that you turn the sub-woofer down much lower than the little dot they have on there for reference.

sadly my country doesnt have klipsch

 

[cuiter23]

If you can stretch your budget a bit I am selling my Focal XS 2.1 Satellites.
 
Hands down the best computer speakers money can buy without going into expensive bookshelfs and towers.
 
If you are interested, take a look at my profile. You will enjoy these much more than the Klipsch without spending much more.

 

[danielhowk]

 

 

At the time I said it I basically meant that I haven't heard it so I can't be sure, but Swans does have a solid reputation.

 

However I'm looking at the rear panel right now it looks like it was made for a soundcard to provide it with a 5.1 input with crossovers already applied (ie it doesn't have any controls for it), and then I have no idea whether it outputs a line level signal controllable by its "Master Volume" knob, or whether it has a 5ch amplifier in there but uses RCA/coaxial type connection, to drive multimedia speakers without needing its own amp. Alternately, you can splice the cable to hook up a passive speaker, but the Master Volume located on the subwoofer plate amp is a very inconvenient spot.

 

This Dayton subwoofer might be better value, plus it's 8in.

i tried m200 mk iii by swan hivi it sounded good but lack bass. when i added the h6 as a subwoofer. connecting the m200 mk iii to the subwoofer. it feels off balance. everything sounded too much bass. apparently the shop owner told me to buy a spliter. and connect the subwoofer and m200 mkiii to the spliter and the spliter to my source. it will sound alot better. is that true ?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

  i tried m200 mk iii by swan hivi it sounded good but lack bass. when i added the h6 as a subwoofer. connecting the m200 mk iii to the subwoofer. it feels off balance. everything sounded too much bass. apparently the shop owner told me to buy a spliter. and connect the subwoofer and m200 mkiii to the spliter and the spliter to my source. it will sound alot better. is that true ?

 
Maybe. The H6 has a "Master" control that acts as a preamp on all the other channels passed through it, and even with the sub volume control, the problem there is that unless you have the sub somewhere at arm's length, that knob isn't accessible. Even then it's on the back of the sub.
 
How much is it anyway? You might be able to get a Dayton 8in sub from Amazon for less.

 

[GreenBow]

I forgot to mention that if you can add a sub later to the:
Ruark Audio MR1
Q-Acoustics Q-BT3
as there is a line out for an active sub on these units. However I doubt anyone would add one.
 
The Audioengine A5+ also has a USB charging point for a music player. It's not an iPod dock. However it will keep a music player charged while it's attached and playing through the speakers.
 
Last but in no means least out of my shortlist are the Warfedale DS-1. They have a heritage of award winning speaker design and the DS-1 are easily the cheapest of my shortlist. They should be on anyone's shortlist who is looking for desktop speakers.

 

[abhishekSPS]

Are they good with classical music...?
Have you auditioned the Adam F5 as well...?
I am given to understand that HE500 have ever so slightly laid back sound signature and LSR305 tend to be on brighter side...would like to know your opinion on this...

 

[danielhowk]

   
Maybe. The H6 has a "Master" control that acts as a preamp on all the other channels passed through it, and even with the sub volume control, the problem there is that unless you have the sub somewhere at arm's length, that knob isn't accessible. Even then it's on the back of the sub.
 
How much is it anyway? You might be able to get a Dayton 8in sub from Amazon for less.

Hi my country have no dayton subwoofer. could you recommend something else ?