[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAngel RLED is the resistor for the LED. Consider which LED you're buying and pick your resistor accordingly. If you're getting a regular LED, use around 2K - 3K, if you're getting an Ultra Bright LED, get something closer to 10K. If you want to save a bit on parks, consider the Panasonic EVJ or Alps RK097 over the Blue Velvet, save another $12, and as for the OpAmps, I totally prefer the AD8066/AD8065 combo over the AD843/AD8610, but for gaming the AD843 is pretty damn good.

ahh, ok that makes so much more sense! LOL I just wasn't grasping where the resistance came into play w/ the LED.

and for op-amps... can't I use 3 AD843 because they're single channel? so use 2 and a brown dog adapter for the left and right channels and one for the ground?

 

[soloz2]

well, I think I got everything figured out. I'm going to house the pimeta and tread in a hammand 1455Q1601 enclosure. It should look good and give me good performance. I didn't go top of the line with anything, but I did try to get good parts like some panasonic fm caps and a little extra to be able to stack the buffers.

thanks to those that have helped!

 

[FallenAngel]

You'll need a Single DIP8 to 1 Dual DIP8 browndog adapter and then you can use 3 AD843's.

As for your case, the 1455Q1601 is HUGE for a Pimeta and Tread. I used a 1455K1202 with 2 x 9V batteries but it was a tight fit. Plus you've got the 01 model with metal side panels, hope you got the equipment to drill them.

This is a quick rundown of the 1455's, and the Pimeta is only 76x61 so you really don't need something 120mm wide, that'll practically hold 2 of them side by side. I definitly agree with getting something around 160mm long since it gives you a chance to put the Tread farther away and enough room to work easily, but the width is overkill.

1455J1201 - 120x78x27
1455J1601 - 160x78x27

1455K1201 - 120x78x27
1455K1601 - 160x78x43

1455L1201 - 120x103x30.5
1455L1601 - 160x103x30.5
1455L2201 - 220x103x30.5

1455N1201 - 120x103x53
1455N1601 - 160x103x53
1455N2201 - 220x103x53

1455P1601 - 160x120.5x30.5

1455P2201 - 220x120.5x30.5

1455Q1601 - 160x120.5x51.5
1455Q2201 - 220x120.5x51.5

 

[soloz2]

yep, I ordered the brown dog adapter from tangentsoft when I ordered the pimeta board, tread kit, a couple caps and the blue velvet pot.

I wanted a case that would have lots of room. I'm not trying to make a portable amp so it doesn't matter too much to me, and I'd rather have some distance between the amp and the power supply if at all possible.

yeah, and I've got a dremel and a drill. The only thing I don't have is a stepped drill bit, but I can probably be careful w/ a regular drill bit to get by

 

[soloz2]

I got my stuff from tangentsoft today (man that was fast!) so I built my TREAD. everything went well except for the C7 and C8 caps... I wasn't entirely sure which was which because one was supposed to be elytrolytic (C8) and the other tantalum (C7) and instead I got 2 tantalum caps with no desgination as to which was which. I assumed that the smaller was C7, but can anyone confirm this?

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

C7 (tantalum) This cap bypasses the regulator's adjustment pin, increasing the regulator's ripple rejection. You could put a 100 µF electrolytic here instead of the default tantalum, but the tant will work reliably over a greater temperature range and it will last longer. This cap is optional. Largest Part Size: 5mm diameter C8 (electrolytic or tantalum) This cap does a bit of post-regulation filtering. For the LM317 it can be as big as you'd like. A 1 µF or so tantalum or a 22 µF of so electrolytic is a good base value. Performance will improve a bit with larger values. You can leave it out if you want. For LDO regulators (LM1086, LT1085...) a cap is required here and it must have an ESR of 1 to 2 ohms to guarantee the regulator's stability. Since higher value caps have lower ESRs (all else being equal), stick to 1 µF for tantalums and 22 µF or so for electrolytics. This cap is optional if you're using the LM317. Largest Part Size: 5mm diameter

C8 is the smaller of the two.

They are polarized so make sure you put them in the right way around.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX C8 is the smaller of the two. They are polarized so make sure you put them in the right way around.

so the larger (sized) cap is actually the smaller (capitance) one?

yeah, I knew they were polarized and I made sure to get them in the right way.

I guess I'll have to swap them around

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by soloz2 so the larger (sized) cap is actually the smaller (capitance) one?

No


http://tangentsoft.net/audio/shop/details/treadk.html

Quote:

C7: 10 µF/35 V dipped tantalum capacitor C8: 1 µF/35 V dipped tantalum capacitor

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX No http://tangentsoft.net/audio/shop/details/treadk.html

so physical size wise which one is which? because there isn't a model # printed on the caps to tell what is what

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

so physical size wise which one is which?

C8 is the smaller of the two.

(both ways... capacitance and physical size)

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX C8 is the smaller of the two. (both ways... capacitance and physical size)

alright, that's what I thought u meant the first time... just had to double check. I guess I got those two on backwards... lol I'll have to switch them around now

 

[soloz2]

dang it... I should have waited to put them on till I was sure.... I've gotten all the solder I can get off w/ my desoldering braid, but there still a tiny bit of solder on there and the caps won't come off... grr... this was such a noobish mistake.


although part of the problem is my soldering iron... it's a cheap $9 one I got from home depot or some place like that. the tip is absolute garbadge... this is the 2nd time I've used it and it's just gone... I tinned it and everything

 

[psilosome]

Try gently pulling the cap away from the board while alternately heating the two pins.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by psilosome Try gently pulling the cap away from the board while alternately heating the two pins.

thanks for the tip. I did try that last night to some extent, but the tip on my soldering iron like melted away as I was using it... so instead of a tip I ended up with a blunt end. I switched to my thicker tip, but it was too thick to work on the small leads... so it was very frustrating.
I'm going to Buffalo tonight to see the in-laws so I was going to try to stop somewhere and at least get some new tips... if not a new soldering iron. If I can't find anything I do have to go to Rochester on Saturday to pick up the glider that finally came in... so I can look there. The problem is that I don't know of any electronics stores so I'm stuck with Sears, radio Shack, Home Depot or Lowes...

 

[Pars]

Quote:

Originally Posted by soloz2 <snipped> so the blue velvet has a power switch built in? that's all I needed to know... i don't need a separate switch <snipped>

Not sure if anyone told you this or you figured it out for yourself, but the Alps Blue Velvet DOES NOT have a switch built in. The Alps RK097 that Tangent sells does.