[FallenAngel]

The 2 275Watt RMSsubs running off the amp bridged to output 400Watts RMS, you're running with quite a few more watts than required. As long as you don't overpower the subs by much, sounds like a nice setup.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAngel The 2 275Watt RMSsubs running off the amp bridged to output 400Watts RMS, you're running with quite a few more watts than required. As long as you don't overpower the subs by much, sounds like a nice setup.

yeah, I'm not too worried. they've been running strong like that for about 5-6 years i think. and yes, they do sound great! they aren't overpowering at all in my LHS

 

[motherone]

You're better off with too much power in an amplifer than too little. Clipping in amplfiers is generally what destroys speakers, as the output waveform will then be essentially DC on the clipped portion.

 

[soloz2]

Woot! I got a job, so I'll probably order the parts for the amp and power supply next week

 

[mb3k]

Quote:

Originally Posted by soloz2 Woot! I got a job, so I'll probably order the parts for the amp and power supply next week

Muahhaah!
Dedicate >50% of your profits to DIY.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mb3k Muahhaah! Dedicate >50% of your profits to DIY.

yeah, don't think my wife, or my college debt would be too happy about that! LOL

 

[soloz2]

alright... I've been reading through the parts selection and reading up about opamps.... and I think I've narrowed the selection down to one of these 2 choices:
1. Analog Devices AD8620 for OPALR and the AD8610 for OPAG
2. OPA627... but this is a single only, so would that mean I would have to get a couple of those brown dog adapters and get a total of 5 opamps? if this is true then price might hinder this option...

Currently I only own Senn HD595's (and some other portable cans, but this amp will primarily be used with my 595's) I would like to eventually get some Grados or AKG's but for now I only have Senns, which are more laid back... so I'm wondering if the Analog Devices would be a better option since it is supposed to be more aggressive... however, the opa627 is more detailed correct?

Question #2
and what is the difference between DIP8 and SIOC8 packages... which would be better?

Question #3
for a volume knob... I thought about getting the ALPS RK27, but would it be better to get a volume knob that doesn't have a power switch built in... and go for a separate power switch so I can leave the volume at the desired position... or is this just a personal choice? what is easier for a noob to do?

And the last question for tonight... (maybe)
what would be a good enclosure to house both a TREAD and the pimeta? I don't want a HUGE case, but at the same time I want to have lots of room to work in and it would also be nice to have the TREAD a little bit away from the amp... what is a good distance for this?

 

[soloz2]

bump

 

[soloz2]

alright, well I think I've answered some of my own questions and I've just about got my parts list finished... now I only have a few more questions.

since I'll be using a TREAD and a wallwart (24vdc one) do I need any of these parts?

RLED
RFET
ZNR
FET

I plan to get on of the cascade sets from tangentsoft which will populate Q1 and Q2, then I'll also have to populate R10L/R

Finally, do I need a switch if I use a ALPS RK27 "Blue Velvet" pot? and what would be a good knob? I chose a 450-6017 from Mouser so far.

 

[FallenAngel]

1) AD8620/AD8610 sounds very detailed and sounds great, I liked those chips in mine before I fried the AD8620, now I'm using AD8066/AD8065 and they sound pretty damn good too at less than half the price.

2) For the OPA627 you'll need 3 chips, I haven't heard them so I can't say what they sound like.

Question 2) DIP8 is bigger, SOIC8 is surface mount and you'll need an adapter to put it in the Pimeta. I would say need because you don't want to be soldering chips to the board in case you screw up or you want to change the chips later. You'll need some DIP8 sockets, solder those on and you're good to go. So as for which is better, DIP8 is definitly what I would go with.

Question 3) Up to you completly, if you don't want to use the power switch built in to the Alps, don't use it, wire another one.

---

As for these FET/RFET/ZNR, since you're planning to run this off the TREAD, just go with an RLED and that's it. You don't need to worry about having an LED shut off when batteries are low, so you'll never use this.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAngel 1) AD8620/AD8610 sounds very detailed and sounds great, I liked those chips in mine before I fried the AD8620, now I'm using AD8066/AD8065 and they sound pretty damn good too at less than half the price. 2) For the OPA627 you'll need 3 chips, I haven't heard them so I can't say what they sound like. Question 2) DIP8 is bigger, SOIC8 is surface mount and you'll need an adapter to put it in the Pimeta. I would say need because you don't want to be soldering chips to the board in case you screw up or you want to change the chips later. You'll need some DIP8 sockets, solder those on and you're good to go. So as for which is better, DIP8 is definitly what I would go with. Question 3) Up to you completly, if you don't want to use the power switch built in to the Alps, don't use it, wire another one. --- As for these FET/RFET/ZNR, since you're planning to run this off the TREAD, just go with an RLED and that's it. You don't need to worry about having an LED shut off when batteries are low, so you'll never use this.

alright, thanks for the answer.

I figured out that I'd need 3 opa627's not 5... lol noobish mistake! I think I'm going to go with them depending on what the total comes to. if not, the ad843 sounds promising so I'll probably try that one.

I added some DIP8 sockets into my parts list

so the blue velvet has a power switch built in? that's all I needed to know... i don't need a separate switch

and for the RLED, I'm a bit confused... is this different than the LED? cause there is an LED in the parts list which I assume is the power LED. but there isn't any part # for the RLED... I read the parts selection guide and I didn't fully understand what it was saying... do I just put a regular LED there, or so I need a special LED with an ohm rating? (I guess where the ohm # came from is what confused me... did that come from a resister elsewhere, or from the LED itself?)

 

[soloz2]

alright, still a little confused on the RLED so if anyone can explain that to me I'll be eternally greatful.

I totaled up everything I had and the price came to almost $200 with the case, blue velvet and opa627's... I was even seriously considering an opa637/opa627 mix... but at about $60 just for the op-amps the price was a bit out of budget! LOL. so I decided to give the AD843 a try... and 3 of them only cost about $24 which is a lot better.

I do have one problem though... digi-key does not stock the texas instruments TLE2426CLP 'rail splitter' anymore and Mouser has them on backorder... so everything else I order would be here very soon except for those... anyone got one that I can buy?

Also, what is the best format to post my parts list?

 

[FallenAngel]

The AD843 has pretty boomy bass, so consider it if you like lots of bass, but I found it much less detailed than AD8620 or AD8066.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAngel The AD843 has pretty boomy bass, so consider it if you like lots of bass, but I found it much less detailed than AD8620 or AD8066.

hmm... well I think my hd595's could use a bit more bass... I don't need anything boomy, but I do use them for gaming quite a bit so I might like the sound...ehh... I can't afford the 627/637's now so I guess I'll try the 843's I'm going to socket them so I can swap them out at a later time and try different sounds. regardless of boomy or not, I think the sound will be different than what I currently have and hopefully better so it will give me something to listen to for a while.

I basically have everything finalized... just need some help w/ the RLED deal... is that a special LED or not? if it's a regular LED I'm good to go... and I can throw a resister there somewhere if necessary too

 

[FallenAngel]

RLED is the resistor for the LED. Consider which LED you're buying and pick your resistor accordingly. If you're getting a regular LED, use around 2K - 3K, if you're getting an Ultra Bright LED, get something closer to 10K.

If you want to save a bit on parks, consider the Panasonic EVJ or Alps RK097 over the Blue Velvet, save another $12, and as for the OpAmps, I totally prefer the AD8066/AD8065 combo over the AD843/AD8610, but for gaming the AD843 is pretty damn good.