[hypnos1]

  Even better, thx! 

I'll try to find posts in this thread that explain the sound properties of these tubes and if the sound quality is very different than for instance the Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV.
And power tubes also can make quite a difference?
Got a lot of catching up to do! 

 

 
Sorry to MIKELAP, but these look like the short-bottle version to me...which most found inferior to the tall-bottle. Please check...

 

[MIKELAP]

   
Sorry to MIKELAP, but these look like the short-bottle version to me...which most found inferior to the tall-bottle. Please check...

Yup your right wrong ones these are the correct ones                                                                                                   http://www.ebay.com/itm/6HM5-EC900-Lot-of-four-4-tubes-EI-Yugoslavia-NOS-free-shipping-/251611916081

 

[MIKELAP]

Finished my C3G adapters today ,tutorial to follow shortly .Wish me luck want to write it once without deleting it by mistake lol.

 

[i luvmusic 2]

  Finished my C3G adapters today ,tutorial to follow shortly .Wish me luck want to write it once without deleting it by mistake lol.

So you jump into one of those EXPENSIVE TUBES,GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!

 

[mordy]

Hi ToTje,
 
My wishes may be a bit contradicting here and there. I'd like to improve the sub-bass and the soundstage, and smooth out the sibilance while also getting a bit more detail in the upper mids and treble.
 
 
Personally, I would recommend a 5687 tube as the answer to your "contradiction."

 

[ToTje]

  Hi ToTje,
 
My wishes may be a bit contradicting here and there. I'd like to improve the sub-bass and the soundstage, and smooth out the sibilance while also getting a bit more detail in the upper mids and treble.
 
 
Personally, I would recommend a 5687 tube as the answer to your "contradiction."

Thanks, all help is appreciated! 

 I see a lot of different types with that number though, and a HUGE price range.

 

[hypnos1]

  Finished my C3G adapters today ,tutorial to follow shortly .Wish me luck want to write it once without deleting it by mistake lol.

 
Well done, M...I hope to you-know-who your pages don't freeze everything a good way through!...Nearly tore out what's left of my poor hair, lol!! 

.

 

[gibosi]

  Thanks, all help is appreciated! 

 I see a lot of different types with that number though, and a HUGE price range.

 
I am not sure how much you have read about how we use this tube in our LD's, so I think I should remind you that this tube can be used both as a replacement for your output tubes and as a driver. To use as output tubes, you will need to purchase a pair, along with adapters, as the 5687 has a pinout different than a 6N6P.
 
If you wish to use the 5687 as a driver, you will need only one. However, as it is a double triode, you will need an adapter to allow you to connect the two triodes to the left and right driver sockets, and you will also need to use an external heater power supply providing at least 1.5 amps.
 
And yes, some listings for these tube are quite high, especially if you want a pair. However, if you are patient you can find good deals. Mordy appears to be currently enamored with using the GE as a driver, and I favor the Sylvania, also as a driver. The RCA, Raytheon and Tung Sol are also worth trying if you can get them cheap. It does not appear that there were any other manufacturers, so if you see a Motorola, AEG, Siemens, or what have you, it was manufactured by one of the above and simply rebranded.
 
Also, the 7044, 7119/E182CC and the 6900 have the same pinout and are also worth trying.

 

[ToTje]

   
I am not sure how much you have read about how we use this tube in our LD's, so I think I should remind you that this tube can be used both as a replacement for your output tubes and as a driver. To use as output tubes, you will need to purchase a pair, along with adapters, as the 5687 has a pinout different than a 6N6P.
 
If you wish to use the 5687 as a driver, you will need only one. However, as it is a double triode, you will need an adapter to allow you to connect the two triodes to the left and right driver sockets, and you will also need to use an external heater power supply providing at least 1.5 amps.
 
And yes, some listings for these tube are quite high, especially if you want a pair. However, if you are patient you can find good deals. Mordy appears to be currently enamored with using the GE as a driver, and I favor the Sylvania, also as a driver. The RCA, Raytheon and Tung Sol are also worth trying if you can get them cheap. It does not appear that there were any other manufacturers, so if you see a Motorola, AEG, Siemens, or what have you, it was manufactured by one of the above and simply rebranded.
 
Also, the 7044, 7119/E182CC and the 6900 have the same pinout and are also worth trying.

Wow! Plenty to look into, I see! Thx! 

And about what I've read so far: I did browse through about 10 pages or so, but I think I should first really learn the basics about tube amps in general. I have read a simple explaination about how a tube works and a little bit about bias and such, so that's at least a start. 

 

[Acapella11]

  Hi ToTje,
 
My wishes may be a bit contradicting here and there. I'd like to improve the sub-bass and the soundstage, and smooth out the sibilance while also getting a bit more detail in the upper mids and treble.
 
 
Personally, I would recommend a 5687 tube as the answer to your "contradiction."

Hi Mordy, is this more in favour of 5687 as a driver or a rather a power tube? Since you have  a pair of 6N6P-IRs, would you mind commenting on those as compared to the 5687?
 
Welcome to the thread Totje.

 
 

  Finished my C3G adapters today ,tutorial to follow shortly .Wish me luck want to write it once without deleting it by mistake lol.

 
Curious about your sound impressions.

 

[ToTje]

Thanks Acapella! 

 
Well in the mean time I've read this thread thoroughly: http://www.head-fi.org/t/119389/the-new-improved-tube-faq-for-newbies (Found it in chapter 5.3 at the first page here.)
 
Now I think I have the basic knowledge to understand a bit what people are talking about in this thread here. 

 

 

[Johnnysound]

  Thanks Acapella! 

 
Well in the mean time I've read this thread thoroughly: http://www.head-fi.org/t/119389/the-new-improved-tube-faq-for-newbies (Found it in chapter 5.3 at the first page here.)
 
Now I think I have the basic knowledge to understand a bit what people are talking about in this thread here. 

 

Hi ToTje, and welcome ¡  
 
This thread is certainly instructive,  and we can learn a lot from the more advanced users.   I was also a "newbie" in 2013, and  opted for a "step by step" approach,   experimenting with certain  "recomended" tubes in my LDMKIII,   and I must say that the advice from the people here was  excellent.   This thread is chronological, it starts as a guide for basic tube rolling  back in 2011 (¡) and then evolves steadily  into more advanced and radical options.   You need to search this thread as I did, but to save you some time,  I would suggest  a "Level 1" upgrade by   replacing the standard 6AK5 tubes (EF95 family) with  the Tung-Sol 6485 (EF92 family) or the very similar TS 6AH6WA tubes.  The Sylvania 6AH6WA is also excellent, and you can get these quite cheaply on Ebay.   The difference in SQ is inmediate,  the 6485, a pentode type,  is a more neutral and "quiet" tube, very detailed, but needs appropiate "burn in" to sound its best.  Take your time and look for NOS mil spec tubes.  
 
The EF92 tubes require changing the internal jumpers in the LD, but a much practical solution is to "strap" the 2-7 pins in the socket with a little piece of wire. This is easy to do, and is explained in detail in this thread.   Curiously,   now the consensus here for the best  "plug and play" driver tube goes for the EI Yugo 6HM5 (tall bottle) which is a EF95 variant.  I am waiting for the mail to deliver mine, and is also a cheap tube.   Now you have two options to play with ¡   About upgrading the power tubes, see post 3007, page 201.  Frankly, I am perfectly happy with my  6N6P standard tubes.  Maybe I am lucky, because my LD came standard with 6N6P 1978 gold grid,  highly recommended in the review,  I do agree, great sounding tubes across the whole  sonic spectrum.    Have to compare with the 6N6PI-IR special version.  Summing up, lets stay in level 1, so  play with the drivers and do not touch the powers....for now  

 

[mordy]

Hi A11,
 
I have only used the 5687 as a driver tube so cannot comment on using them as power tubes. Some people in the past used an all 5687 set up (driver and power tubes), and I think Superdux just tried using the 5687 as power tubes with good results as well.
 
I did try a number of 6N6P variants for power tubes, including the 6N6P-IR (but not the 6H30-DR). The consensus was that the best one is the so called "supertube" 6H30-DR which was incrementally better than the IR tube, but  not worth the considerable extra expense compared to the 6N6P-IR tube ($40/pair compared to $200/pair).
 
However, inexpensive 6SN7 octal tubes used as power tubes were found to be better than the supertube in the LD, and at a fraction of the cost. The next step up in power tubes are the 6AS7/6080 tubes. The main difference between all these different power tubes is how impactful the bass is reproduced, as well as adding layers of detail and depth in the sound stage - the latter applying to the 6AS7/6080 tubes.
 
There is a cliche that the power tubes only add some 15% of the sound compared to the driver tubes. Based on my personal experience they have a much greater impact, but only in synergy with the right driver tubes. With the right combination the power tubes have a great impact and change the entire sonic presentation. The difference, as an example, is between flat and soft, and full bodied and lively.
 
A Little Dot owner may be very pleased with the 6HM5 as a driver, and the 6N6P-IR as power tubes, but once you switch to the 5687 (or C3g which I haven't tried yet -coming) and 6AS7/6080 as power tubes, there is no turning back.  There is simply more of everything; more bass, more treble, more clarity - everything is beautifully balanced and sounds right.
 
As mentioned many times, all of these great tubes require external power supplies and/or adapters, but IMHO it is very much worth the trouble to make these modifications which elevate the Little Dot amps to a totally different level of performance.
 
PS: How can I make statements about tubes that I did not audition personally? After having compared notes with members of this forum for several years you get an appreciation of the other person's taste and listening preferences and you come to a realization that their judgments are correct and can be relied upon.

 

[Johnnysound]

Just received today a small lot of  6AH6WA/6AU6 tubes and all are really interesting,  will take decent pictures soon, but in the meantime this is what I got:
 

 
IEC Mullard 6AU6 , not NOS but tested very strong (no problem at $1.50 each),  and I really enjoyed how they sounded, very musical, very nice,  very special, with strong and deep bass, in fact deeper bass  than my reference Tung-Sols 6485.   A true gift at the price.   Now for the experts, are  marked "made in England" and it arouses suspicion, the Mullards normally say "made in Great Britain". I also learned that  latest production IEC Mullards (late 70s.) were in fact made in the U.S.  However, the tubes have etched codes as all Mullards have, top line 1022 652 and bottom line 2G5 || 199.  Deciphering this is not easy,  I have no idea of the date, but the G5 code and the parallel vertical lines indicate that these were made at the Loewe Opta plant by Valvo in Hamburg, Germany,  for Mullard.  Now that explains the "made in England" anomaly.  Not  made in England, but in Germany.  Interesting discovery,  just try to find a Valvo 6AU6, it will cost you perhaps 40 or 50 dollars each....if you can find one.  This is a very entertaining hobby, indeed.  
 

 
NOS Tung-Sol USAF 6AH6WA,  1961. (3)  I understand that some friends here have similar   tubes, and liked them very much.  I have not tested them yet,  but at first glance  looks almost identical in its components to my reference TS 6485s, (which  are probably  mid sixties tubes), and  If  the 6485 is  an special version of the 6AH6,  then this one is certainly even more special.    Obviously, it  was  made to much higher specs than any civilian tube, and I can imagine it as part of the electronics of a B-52 bomber.  This is a super 6485,   with an inner (partial)  black coating I never saw before in small tubes,  only in overpiced military 6SN7/VT 231. For 5.30 dollars each, it sounds like a good investment.   My LDMKIII  will be then a live Cold War exhibition,  with American nuclear bomber tubes as drivers and Russian nuclear missile tubes as powers.   This is what I call international cooperation. 
 
 
 
  
 
NOS Sylvania JAN-CHS 6AH6WA.    This is a real abuse, poor tubes ¡¡   Sorry for the "stock" photo, I promise a better one soon.  Anyway, I freed them from prison after 30 or 40 years in that plastic bag, and was inmediately impressed.   The tubes are brand new with perfect graphics,  and you can easily find 6AH6 Sylvanias, even JAN 6AH6WA Sylvanias, but all are transparent and none look even remotely like these,  with an almost full  black coated interior, in vertical bands around the tube, never saw anyhing like that.  I suspect this ones are the REAL military stuff, sold as surplus without boxes or anything.  Extremely rare.  One are inclined to think that the coating will mask the filament glow,  wrong,  they glow on top, just behind the chrome, and the blackes look really cooooool.  As you can imagine, after a careful cleaning and  "Pro Gold" treatment, I put them to work at once, They need to exercise after so many years (burn in)  but first impressions are really good,  no surprises;  quick, clean, detailed,  a serious contender against the Tung-Sols...    

 

[superdux]

  Hi A11,
 
I have only used the 5687 as a driver tube so cannot comment on using them as power tubes. Some people in the past used an all 5687 set up (driver and power tubes), and I think Superdux just tried using the 5687 as power tubes with good results as well.

 
The 5687 as power tubes seem a bit bass pronounced.They are also nicely detailed and give weaker sounding driver tubes new life.
 
EDIT: i just switched to stock power tubes for the first 30 minutes of "Tommy" from The Who and changed back again and these are certainly an upgrade to stock tubes!Voices are more destinguishable, there's more spatial layering, some more bass and definately more detail.The sound is more crisper.
 
Tested with C3G tubes as drivers.
 
I will compare to 6SN7 next month when i have some money to buy a batch of tubes as the adapters are on their way from china.