I meant the top board connect with the bottom board to bring the center ground potential to the transistors.
It basically depends on the board trace..
I don't know who it was and there are soo many pages here lol
I forgot who it was that had their trace broken in the main PSU, right underneath the PSU caps around the diode area..
One side supposed to connect to the other thru a hole wherr two caps join(!).
You should check that area as well..
I meant the top board connect with the bottom board to bring the center ground potential to the transistors.
It basically depends on the board trace..
I don't know who it was and there are soo many pages here lol
To save you wading through 200 or so pages... not a whole lot of fun by any means..... I had this problem but I don't think I told anyone, the engineer fixed it for me. I think Sonic had a problem fixed with wire there, I don't think Mogos had any problems like that, lucky person!
To save you wading through 200 or so pages... not a whole lot of fun by any means..... I had this problem but I don't think I told anyone, the engineer fixed it for me. I think Sonic had a problem fixed with wire there, I don't think Mogos had any problems like that, lucky person!
I should have probably taken pictures. Since i had 2 larger ripped pads and (PSU caps) and 1 smaller pad with the via ripped out. But this was on the blue board. The black PCB had 0 issue even after multiple pulls and solder sessions.
I should have probably taken pictures. Since i had 2 larger ripped pads and (PSU caps) and 1 smaller pad with the via ripped out. But this was on the blue board. The black PCB had 0 issue even after multiple pulls and solder sessions.
Yeah, I noticed your black board looked remarkably clean. Do you desolder before pulling out the components, that is the best way to avoid pulling pads......... or so I'm told!
Yeah, I noticed your black board looked remarkably clean. Do you desolder before pulling out the components, that is the best way to avoid pulling pads......... or so I'm told!
Yeah, I noticed your black board looked remarkably clean. Do you desolder before pulling out the components, that is the best way to avoid pulling pads......... or so I'm told!
Point to point, ie you reproduce the traces from the PCB using wires instead..... no more lifted pads! You just need to know where to put everything in a custom chassis.
Or if you're thinking of going down this route ask Sonic about his LTP amp. Might be cheaper to start from scratch if you've got to get a whole lot of new components.
Point to point, ie you reproduce the traces from the PCB using wires instead..... no more lifted pads! You just need to know where to put everything in a custom chassis.
Or if you're thinking of going down this route ask Sonic about his LTP amp. Might be cheaper to start from scratch if you've got to get a whole lot of new components.
Now I try to figure out how to copy the board traces layout so can DIY own cooper PCB, The method is very simple, just use the bright cool white colour light focus at the bottom of the PCB, then U CAN see all the traces from both side the board crystal clear , also very helpful when try to find and fix the damage area and broken traces
Anyone know how to remove the low/high gain switch?
Since using this switch I noticed that the resistor right next to it, the 390K resistor which reads 10K on low gain, has gone off so I checked the switch itself and found one of its resistors is not right probably causing an abnormally high reading on the 390K resistor.
Anyone know how to remove the low/high gain switch?
Since using this switch I noticed that the resistor right next to it, the 390K resistor which reads 10K on low gain, has gone off so I checked the switch itself and found one of its resistors is not right probably causing an abnormally high reading on the 390K resistor.
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