[928GTS]

Some tubes are just magically selected out for being "amazing",people raise the price to something outrageous and people follow thinking they're on to something. Buy cheap tubes and experiment,you might just stumble onto a magical combination.

 

[intoart]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 928GTS /img/forum/go_quote.gif Some tubes are just magically selected out for being "amazing",people raise the price to something outrageous and people follow thinking they're on to something. Buy cheap tubes and experiment,you might just stumble onto a magical combination.

So you are saying that to buy (for example) three different $15 pairs would make more sense than buying one $45 pair?

 

[electropop]

This would be rational in your case, although the Sylvania golds might just be your thing

But since many different "cheap" tube-branches sound even very different from each other, and some with certain setups really awesome, it's a better chance finding what you're looking for this way. Plus you'd have reference if you purchased, say, another pair of headphones in the future. ... Not saying you should..

But yes, this didn't come to my mind for some reason, when posting my last piece of aid. I thought you might want to go easy, but since it is rather simple swapping the tubes and comparing, you might actually grow fond of the thing (it is relatively easy with the LDI+)

Regards..

 

[intoart]

Maybe I will try going that route. This is going to be my first experience with anything that has tubes in it, so the concept of tube rolling seems a bit daunting. If it really does turn out to be easy, though, then it might be fun.

If the I+ does not impress me, I may go back to my integrated or try a good SS amp. If I really like it, though, I will probably eventually upgrade within the LD line (the MKIV SE looks really nice), so I should still be able to use whatever tubes I have bought by then.

 

[electropop]

Exactly. I found the LD I+ to be a very nice upgrade for my Grados. Plus very cheap. My first experience with tubes also.
Would've never thought swapping tubes could make such a difference, but i ate my words

I also noted, that burn-in periods are really necessary to be able to characterize a tube's sound-signature. Most of them are "lively".

My AD2000's are so calm, that they would need a proper SS-amp to drive them. (more dynamics and transparency). That will be ahead of me in near-future. The MKV is for high-impedance phones, so that unfortunately won't be an alternative for me..

I haven''t heard much beyers, but after listening my grado's through basically any tubes, it's hard to move back to SS..

Good luck in your adventure

 

[nauxolo]

What if the both debate ate the theory?

 

[intoart]

Quote:

Originally Posted by electropop /img/forum/go_quote.gif I haven''t heard much beyers, but after listening my grado's through basically any tubes, it's hard to move back to SS.. Good luck in your adventure

Thank you! I am getting really impatient for my I+ to arrive. My Beyers sound amazing already, so if it really is a significant upgrade, that is pretty exciting! (I will do my best to withold judgement until it has had some time to burn in. I am not inclined to do 8-hour burn in sessions, though. I am more likely to just listen and wait for any changes to happen in their own good time.)

I will order some tubes. I really don't want to mess with jumpers, though, so I will probably stick to tubes that use the same configuration as the stock 6JIs (6AK5s and 403As, for example.)

 

[cristox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nauxolo /img/forum/go_quote.gif 1) Kind of a dumb question, but what happens if you have tubes of different types in each slot? 2) Also... would sound go through if you don't put any tubes in at all? 3) Lastly, why does the 408A family have to have the jumpers be switched... would harm come if I decide to swap the 6FJI in without switching the jumpers/ it's kind of annoying to have to undo the chassis and switch jumpers everytime...

There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers...

1)
If you stay within one tube familiy...

(EF91 = 6AM6 = Z77 = 6F12 = 8D3 = N79 = CV138 = 6064 = M8083 = CV4014) or
(EF92 = 6CQ6 = W77 = 6F21 = 9D6 = CV131 = 6065 = M8161 = CV4015) or
(EF95 = 6AK5 = 6j1p = 6069 = 6F32V = 6F32 = 5654 = 6ZH1P = M8100= 403A [=408a {heads up, higher heater voltages}])

...then nothing harmful will happen. But you will hear the difference...

If you mix them and one tube is driven below its specs, you would hear nothing or sound at lower volume on this channel.

If you mix them and one tube is driven with too high heater voltage it will "burn".

EF92 has a different pin-out to the other two.
Mixing those may burn something somewhere.

I dont know whats the effects of the other tube values on the amp or the tubes itself when mixing them though. Anyone?

2)
No

3)
The 408a has higher filament (heater) voltage than its sister, the EF95.

408a: 20V, 50mA
EF95: 6.3V, 175mA

Swapping EF95 for 408a would not do harm.
But swapping 408a for EF95 would overheat the EF95s filament, leading to burn the tube.

If you need to lookup some tube values:
The National Valve Museum - Search Page
Antique Radios, Old Radios: 135 000, Radio Museum, Catalog

 

[nauxolo]

The passionate common arrives into the complex crack.

 

[HippieTom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cristox /img/forum/go_quote.gif There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers...

Hi cristox.
Do you know? I use M8100 and wondering.should i have changed the switches or leave it as it is. It stands like it was when i got it with the chinese tubes.

 

[electropop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by intoart /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thank you! I am getting really impatient for my I+ to arrive. My Beyers sound amazing already, so if it really is a significant upgrade, that is pretty exciting! (I will do my best to withold judgement until it has had some time to burn in. I am not inclined to do 8-hour burn in sessions, though. I am more likely to just listen and wait for any changes to happen in their own good time.) I will order some tubes. I really don't want to mess with jumpers, though, so I will probably stick to tubes that use the same configuration as the stock 6JIs (6AK5s and 403As, for example.)

Don't want to be annoying, but changing the jumpers is relatively easy, though bothersome to some, since you have to unscrew four bolts. After that you use your finger of choice, and *switch*.

6JI's are bass heavy, don't have any other from that branch though..
I'll be receiving my sylvania gold 408's and some voshtok tubes (ef92 something?) that were 10 dollars. I've read some good things on them and i will post impressions once i've had the time and chance to listen to them thoroughly.

Yay for cheap audio-enthusiastic tweaking!

 

[cristox]

double post

 

[cristox]

The LD1+ has 6JI as stock tubes (unless you ordered other tubes with the amp)
6JI and M8100 are in the same family.
So no jumper action necessary.


Quote:

Originally Posted by HippieTom /img/forum/go_quote.gif I use M8100 and wondering.should i have changed the switches or leave it as it is. It stands like it was when i got it with the chinese tubes.

 

[Morb]

I went from the standard 6J1's to Mullard 8100's ....
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.
.
.
.
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I'm amazed

Didn't expected this lol, first tube experience here

 

[HippieTom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cristox /img/forum/go_quote.gif The LD1+ has 6JI as stock tubes (unless you ordered other tubes with the amp) 6JI and M8100 are in the same family. So no jumper action necessary.

Good. Thanks