[Lohb]

Balanced-out might give wider sound-stage/instrument separation...?
 
Is it possible to build a TRSS to dual 3-pin XLR into a big amp etc ? I see 4 lines at one end and 6 at the other unless one pin is dead at output end.....

 

[miceblue]

Is it possible to build a TRSS to dual 3-pin XLR into a big amp etc ? I see 4 lines at one end and 6 at the other unless one pin is dead at output end.....

Pin 1 of a 3-pin XLR connector is just to chassis ground or shield.
TRRS - L+/R+/L-/R-
3-pin XLR - cable shield/L+/L-, cable shield/R+/R-

 

[Lohb]

Thanks.
Are there tonal/SQ shifts in this V2 ? I see the jitter upgrade and a couple other things over V1 but wonder if it adds up to a better sound than V1.

 

[Aiyah]

Thanks.
Are there tonal/SQ shifts in this V2 ? I see the jitter upgrade and a couple other things over V1 but wonder if it adds up to a better sound than V1.

Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it

 

[nicolo]

Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it

 
Some people have posted pretty positive impressions about the GO v2, one of whom went on to say that the stock GO v2 sounded evne better than the GO v1 SE ( first link below):
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015#post_11565953
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/30#post_11570351
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571175
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571804

 

[doctorjazz]

Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it

Some people have posted pretty positive impressions about the GO v2, one of whom went on to say that the stock GO v2 sounded evne better than the GO v1 SE ( first link below):

http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015#post_11565953
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/30#post_11570351
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571175
http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571804

Well, it could be true that the pain vanilla GO V2 beats the SE V1, but I'd be surprised, given the upgrade in components in the SE. Meet impressions in general, while welcome, are also a bit suspect, given that 1) they're usually fairly short 2) conditions are noisy and far from optimal 3)the associated gear may not be familiar 4)there is a Wow factor most of us have when we hear something new we like, and it often takes a while getting familiar with something new to really get a handle on it. Case in point: to read early reports on the HE-1000, it is 1)the second coming 2)not as good as the HE-6 3)too laid back 4)too aggressive, especially in the highs 5)the most involving listening experience ever 6)detailed, but clinical and boring 6)much better than the HE-6, especially with a pad change...
you get the drift...the SE V1 is SO much better sounding than my 1K V1...I have no doubt the SE V2 builds on the V1 and improves the sound (sad for V1 owners, but that's the electronics biz), but I'd take the above with a grain of salt My $0.02, of course, have no First hand way to know

 

[noa2450]

I'm very temptet by the GO v2/v2+, but due to all the marketing nonsense I'm now thinking of settleing for the GO1000 for my upcomming Alpha Dogs.

The GO1000 has recieved plenty good reviews paired with the ADs, but since the price for the GO720 is almost half of the 1000s in EU at the moment, I am wondering wether the 80£ more is worth it. How much better do you think the 1000s would drive Alpha Dogs?

Best regards.

 

[miceblue]

If drive in your definition means better sound, then they sound identical.

If drive in your definition means volume, obviously the 1000 is louder.

 

[noa2450]

If drive in your definition means better sound, then they sound identical.

If drive in your definition means volume, obviously the 1000 is louder.

Thank you! By drive I meant both - making the cans perfom the greatest % of their potential, whilst ofcause supporting enough power for the volume to go to 'wanted levels'.

In my case wanted volume levels would range from low to relatively high, involving levels, without needing to go extremely high.

If there would be no difference in SQ, I think I will be pleased with the 720.

Thanks again.

 

[CEE TEE]

Here's what I think: the 720 is in-between the 1000 and 450 in bass level and price and power.  If you don't need the power and the extra bass with your cans that the 1000 has, you can go 720.  Then you have something in the middle between 450/1000 in 3 aspects (cost/bass/power).  
 
I have all three of those Geek Outs and would have sold the 720 but it is one of the rare blue ones.  If I get a V2 or most probably V2+, I'll be keeping the 450 for some aspects of it and selling both 720/1000 since the V2 does at least 100 & 1000 with two gain options.  In case anyone was gonna ask: I think the 450 is just awesome for the price + as a DAC to another amp + for imaging and a smooth/polished sound that is slightly tunable with the two new firmware options. I have notes on the V2 and it is really impressive but you should NOT throw out or sell your 450s immediately because they are still great. 

 

[upsguys88]

I have the AD and I prefer the GO 1000 to my GO 720 (I have both) as it allows for the headphones to really shine and seem to have added space compared to the GO 720 on my AD cans.

 

[kameenadesi]

how does the Geek Out 1000 compare in sound quality to the ifi iCAN micro? (although one is a DAC/amp and the other is just an amp)

 

[namaiki]

I've got one of these on the way. I just hope that it pairs as well with the HD800 as some people say.

I do have a question though. Why does LH labs still have a cope of the 1.0 firmware on their website? Ie that for people who want to use the 3D awesomefier? Also does that firmware have the volume bug?

 

[doctorjazz]

That is the firmware with the volume bug, I believe. That was the main reason for changing the controls to the filters.

 

[namaiki]

Hmm, just received my "new" Geek Out 1000 from Amazon. The outside box was torn, and the USB extender cable was missing, which is the most annoying part. I definitely don't want to accidentally snap or damage the USB connector which is why the USB extender cable would have been good to have.
 
Second thing is that the serial number of the unit I received is <100. Does this mean anything at all? Well, the Geek Out appears to work and was already flashed to firmware 1.5 which is good I guess.
 
About the TCM and FRM modes, is it true that the Geek Out defaults to TCM mode every time you plug it in or does it remember which filter you picked the previous time?
 
Regards,
namaiki