[Ultrainferno]

Good to know , are those 6080 or 6080WA? I've never seen regular TS 6080 only the WA model.
 

Yes, it are 6080WA. Westinghouse branded TS tubes, pretty good price on those

 

[telecaster]

Quote:

Those tubes do look good. But i thought tubes are more ex than $50.

Depends on the tubes, 5998, 7236 are very pricey, the rest is very cool priced! That is one good thing about this amp, the tubes are really affordable, like 10€ for a pristine EF80 or 6SJ7 or 15€ for a pristine 6AS7G, you just have to look hard enough!
 
Look at Woo owners who are spending 300$ on a rectifier tube!!!!

 

[telecaster]

Quote:

Yes, it are 6080WA. Westinghouse branded TS tubes, pretty good price on those

Interesting! Did you tried other 6080 tubes? I am more and more leaning towards trying a pair of 5998, but in the end I am still reluctant to spend more than 60€ for a single tube!

 

[telecaster]

The "french mod" LF339

 

230µF per channel of MKP output coupling caps.

 

[sluker]

And the result??
Quote:

The "french mod" LF339

 

230µF per channel of MKP output coupling caps.

 

[telecaster]

the 2X470µF per channel (the blue caps) helped in completely removing the distorsion I have experiencing with the Bendix 6080WB in the bass region, it seems those tubes were demanding in power. Also improved in my opinion the bass that is more controlled and more volume. They are bypassed by 4.7µF MKP and I found the sound more natural, but I'm not sure. It surely doesn't hurt the quality. Those bigger than stock caps made the noise level lower and the power better for the driver tubes I found.
 
The MKP output coupling cap improved the bass response, 230µF per channel while stock is 130µF electrolytics. I calculate the new -3dB response @2.3Hz and a perfect response @23Hz (300ohm cans). Now the lowest octave is more powerful and controlled. The MKP sound is more natural, with no distorsion. I noticed the distorsion on the lytics after it was removed. They are not bad sounding at all but the film caps are better to my ears.
 
The Seta resistors cured the crackling noise I was having because the stock 50w alu wirewound was burned. The setas are more stable and slightly less hot. They sound good as far as I know.
 
The bypass MKP at the las 820µF PS lytics also help in sounding natural and relax as far as I know, but I am waiting for the 1000µF BC to arrive to change them.
 
The output coupling bypass silver mica 10000pF (russian CRM3) are really good. I tried them even though I like the MKP alone, I wanted to see what silver mica was all about. I was very skeptical about this bypass because I though film alone didn't need anything. But  in the end I thought the sound was better. Still very natural and good sounding, that was until I tried to triple the silver mica caps value in parallel (not on photo) and then the sound was so much better, more body in the medium and high region. I really like the sound now! I might try to elevate the value even more, or maybe bypass the PS caps with silver mica too...
 
YMMV! The stock 339 sounds glorious on its own! I just wanted to push the limits further! And also because my HD650 needed some help in the sub bass, and the wirewound resistor was burnt...
 

 

[Sganzerla]

 How much was the total cost, telecaster?

 

[telecaster]

I have some more items coming to finish this project:
Solid copper core gold plated wire, teflon tubing, allen bradley cc resistors, caddock resistors, vishay BC caps...
And not mounted are 2X30µF MKP and 4X9,1µF MKP caps and dozen of silver mica caps...
It is crazy I admit but hey, life is too short! Total cost of all the mounted and unmounted components is less than 300€ (inc. shipping) (bay parts hunt for the lytics lowered the cost... while the MKP were from shop). Most of the cost are the film caps and resistors.
Bonus is now the film output coupling is sounding outrageously nice, and is safer than lytics I heard. But when you outweight the sound quality, the stock 339 is already very nice don't get me wrong, and the upgrade is only pushing the limits while being very expensive regarding the improvement in SQ.
 

 

[sluker]

Very impressive DIY chops telecaster. How much time would you estimate it took to replace all of these parts? The closest I have gotten is replacing the caps in the crossovers of my HPM-100's and that took about 45 minutes per speaker. I wish I had the skills to spec out and do something like this. 
Quote:

I have some more items coming to finish this project:
Solid copper core gold plated wire, teflon tubing, allen bradley cc resistors, caddock resistors, vishay BC caps...
And not mounted are 2X30µF MKP and 4X9,1µF MKP caps and dozen of silver mica caps...
It is crazy I admit but hey, life is too short! Total cost of all the mounted and unmounted components is less than 300€ (inc. shipping) (bay parts hunt for the lytics lowered the cost... while the MKP were from shop). Most of the cost are the film caps and resistors.
Bonus is now the film output coupling is sounding outrageously nice, and is safer than lytics I heard. But when you outweight the sound quality, the stock 339 is already very nice don't get me wrong, and the upgrade is only pushing the limits while being very expensive regarding the improvement in SQ.
 

 

[telecaster]

It is pretty easy, but in fact I received the great help from headfiers and WALL-E in particular, thanks m8! I remembered my high school days and electronic classes. I am not that skills but I learn how to DIY all my cables because I don't like paying someone to do it for me...
IME, bad solder job I sure have make it 15 years ago but that was before I bought a nice soldering iron with a precise tip, since then I never botched a solder. I use a french brand JBC 25W iron.
Be sure to learn your ohm formula and be prepared to work in high voltage circuit those are lethal. For that just make sure to discharge the capacitors with a light bulb and check with a multimeter, pretty easy actually!
 

 

[telecaster]

Quote:

Very impressive DIY chops telecaster. How much time would you estimate it took to replace all of these parts?

Thanks! It is a very time consuming, for exemple it took me quite some time to remove the old output coupling lytics, even more time to solder neatly the resistor array. I didn't took notice of all the time I used on those mods because I was testing in between mods sound change. I would say many hours if you take your time and test like I did. It's a hobby I found it pretty relaxing!

 

[Sganzerla]

 Well, I got home this afternoon, turned my unit on... right channel dead.
 
 I tought it may be some kind of mismatch with my DAC, that happened before, but no, it wasn't:
 
 - Tried my headphone first... the same problem with my other pair
 - Tried my DAC... changing the cable didn't change the dead channel
 - Tried the interconnects... same problem
 - Tried changing driver tubes, power tubes, fuses... the same damn problem!
 
 Tomorrow I think I'm going to look for a repair shop.

 

[telecaster]

I would bet on the output coupling resistor!
 

 

[Ultrainferno]

Yep, resistor. It happened to me too and to some others. Mail yuking and he'll send you replacement resistors.
Luckily it is very easy to change them because of the excellent point 2 point design.
Sucks though, I know the feeling

 

[xzobinx]

man I'm buying it don't scare me :-s hope mine won't screw up 
btw can any one tell me how to make sure they send the ef 80 adapter ? thanks