La Figaro 339
Sep 28, 2022 at 4:12 AM Post #6,811 of 6,903
Hi there, anyone had a chance to sonically compare the 339i vs the original 339? I read, the 339i comes with better components, but what improvement does that sonically translate into upon real-world listening? Thank you!
 
Sep 28, 2022 at 2:20 PM Post #6,812 of 6,903
I haven't - but I imagine it's much the same as what I gained from changing out all the 339i components to even higher quality components. Everything was just better on the order of 5-10%. Same sound, just more of it if that makes sense.

If you're going to modify it anyway, it won't make any difference which version you choose.

In either case (339 or 339i) you should perform the copper flux band mod to eliminate the noise floor of the amp, this won't change with either model until you perform the mod.
 
Sep 29, 2022 at 1:07 PM Post #6,815 of 6,903
I haven't - but I imagine it's much the same as what I gained from changing out all the 339i components to even higher quality components. Everything was just better on the order of 5-10%. Same sound, just more of it if that makes sense.

If you're going to modify it anyway, it won't make any difference which version you choose.

In either case (339 or 339i) you should perform the copper flux band mod to eliminate the noise floor of the amp, this won't change with either model until you perform the mod.

Thank you for your input. Over the years, I have followed the discussion on modding this amp. This sounds very interesting and I may take it up one day, although it is surely more complex than modding headphones. I only have limited soldering experience while making some headphone cables for myself. I was wondering if there’s a comprehensive post giving step by step guidance on how to achieve some of the most effective mods? I have seen scattered reports with pictures, but for a novice like me, it’s quite hard to follow. I quite like the sound of the unmodded 339 with the 5998s and RCA reds, not so much with HD800, but definitely with Audeze LCD-3. It brings out the best things about it’s tuby character, warmth and deep soundstage etc.
 
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Sep 29, 2022 at 6:11 PM Post #6,816 of 6,903
There's not really a step by step as it honestly doesn't really require one :)

I can put some thoughts down for you on how you could prioritize going about this though.

The circuit of the amp will remain untouched - so you don't need a ton of knowhow to do any of the mods. All you're doing is taking the components that are in there and replacing them with better components, same (or similar) value, same place in the circuit, just better 'stuff'.

For Noise reduction - this would be where I would start
1. Copper Flux Band mod - this is your greatest noise reduction and it's relatively simple to perform, albeit a bit tedious
2. Regulated Heater Mod - I've heard this on a 339i without the copper band mod and they work about as well as each other, I plan to do both on my amp to get noise to an absolute minimum
3. Elevated heater mod - this worked, but to much less of a degree than the other two (I've employed this on mine amp regardless)
4. Twisting the heater wires - this is super easy and should be done regardless of any of the above.
5. Reroute signal wires to Y topology - currently these run around the case of the amp and can pick up noise, I rerouted these through the middle of the 820uF electrolytics

For 'Better' Sound
1. Replace ps electrolytics - these are the big ones in the back, i think 820uF originally i stepped them up to 1000uF with good results
2. Secondary ps electrolytics - there are 4 of these at 220uF (i think?). Those physically closer to the big caps in step one aren't in the signal path and I replaced with Mundorf. The ones that follow these are in the signal path and I replaced with Audio Note
3. Resistors - I used vintage carbon for the ones across the tube sockets and Kiwame elsewhere (these give a lusher sound IMO). I also used Audio Note silver for the 100ohm I believe on the signal output.
4. Coupling Caps - These are the 150uF ones under the middle transformer shroud cover. I took this off and upsized to 230uF, more impact, more bass - wasn't exactly cheap or easy though. Problem is there isn't a lot in this size that will work that aren't electrolytics - ideally you want a film cap. Mundorf has some but I found those to be very neutral and unexciting sounding.
5. Volume Pots - why do all this and not replace them? I took the cheap ones out and replaced with TKD 100k ohm (non stepped, why have stepped for two independent channels....)

Tubes
This had a significant impact on the sound as I'm sure you're aware.
1. Power tubes I went with Western Electric 421a
2. Input tubes I went with L63 GEC
a. Yes these are 6J5 tubes but as long as you rewire the tube socket or build an adapter these will work without additional circuit modification. Some have seen success with changing the 200ohm resistor to 100ohm and the 33k ohm to 24k ohm with these tubes but I've done neither and it works just fine (I may put a switch in place of the LEDs to allow me to move from 33k to 24k at will, TBD though). They are a bit less 'linear' sounding as 2nd order harmonics are increased but you get more of a tubey character to the amp which I really like.

I think that's about it? Probably took me close to 20 hours in total to get all this done though I didn't do it all at once. You're literally taking out a part that's in there originally and just replacing it with a newer 'better' one. It's very simple and you don't need much experience to get it done, you just need dedicated time :)

If you get stuck or have more questions I'm just a PM away!
 
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Sep 29, 2022 at 7:13 PM Post #6,817 of 6,903
Its been couple of years i listened with this amp. I remember it sounding very solid state like. Is it the consensus around here
It depends on the tubes also to some extent. Some tubes have harsher treble and less bass impact. Others are too warm. There may be tubes that make the amp less tube and more SS-like, but may be not completely SS like.

There's not really a step by step as it honestly doesn't really require one :)

I can put some thoughts down for you on how you could prioritize going about this though.

The circuit of the amp will remain untouched - so you don't need a ton of knowhow to do any of the mods. All you're doing is taking the components that are in there and replacing them with better components, same (or similar) value, same place in the circuit, just better 'stuff'.

For Noise reduction - this would be where I would start
1. Copper Flux Band mod - this is your greatest noise reduction and it's relatively simple to perform, albeit a bit tedious
2. Regulated Heater Mod - I've heard this on a 339i without the copper band mod and they work about as well as each other, I plan to do both on my amp to get noise to an absolute minimum
3. Elevated heater mod - this worked, but to much less of a degree than the other two (I've employed this on mine amp regardless)
4. Twisting the heater wires - this is super easy and should be done regardless of any of the above.
5. Reroute signal wires to Y topology - currently these run around the case of the amp and can pick up noise, I rerouted these through the middle of the 820uF electrolytics

For 'Better' Sound
1. Replace ps electrolytics - these are the big ones in the back, i think 820uF originally i stepped them up to 1000uF with good results
2. Secondary ps electrolytics - there are 4 of these at 220uF (i think?). Those physically closer to the big caps in step one aren't in the signal path and I replaced with Mundorf. The ones that follow these are in the signal path and I replaced with Audio Note
3. Resistors - I used vintage carbon for the ones across the tube sockets and Kiwame elsewhere (these give a lusher sound IMO). I also used Audio Note silver for the 100ohm I believe on the signal output.
4. Coupling Caps - These are the 150uF ones under the middle transformer shroud cover. I took this off and upsized to 230uF, more impact, more bass - wasn't exactly cheap or easy though. Problem is there isn't a lot in this size that will work that aren't electrolytics - ideally you want a film cap. Mundorf has some but I found those to be very neutral and unexciting sounding.
5. Volume Pots - why do all this and not replace them? I took the cheap ones out and replaced with TKD 100k ohm (non stepped, why have stepped for two independent channels....)

Tubes
This had a significant impact on the sound as I'm sure you're aware.
1. Power tubes I went with Western Electric 421a
2. Input tubes I went with L63 GEC
a. Yes these are 6J5 tubes but as long as you rewire the tube socket or build an adapter these will work without additional circuit modification. Some have seen success with changing the 200ohm resistor to 100ohm and the 33k ohm to 24k ohm with these tubes but I've done neither and it works just fine (I may put a switch in place of the LEDs to allow me to move from 33k to 24k at will, TBD though). They are a bit less 'linear' sounding as 2nd order harmonics are increased but you get more of a tubey character to the amp which I really like.

I think that's about it? Probably took me close to 20 hours in total to get all this done though I didn't do it all at once. You're literally taking out a part that's in there originally and just replacing it with a newer 'better' one. It's very simple and you don't need much experience to get it done, you just need dedicated time :)

If you get stuck or have more questions I'm just a PM away!

Such a great post. Thank you so much! I will go through the details more carefully when I am free. I have not heard the Western Electric 421a, but I have two pairs of TS 5998 and really love their sound.
 
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Oct 11, 2022 at 7:24 PM Post #6,819 of 6,903
Hi All,


I picked up a use La Figaro 339 for cheap without the two power cables. I'm not the best when it comes to electrical components and want to make sure I don't damage it, can someone on here help steer me in the right direction for what type of power cables I need? Thanks so much!
 
Oct 11, 2022 at 7:44 PM Post #6,820 of 6,903
Hi All,


I picked up a use La Figaro 339 for cheap without the two power cables. I'm not the best when it comes to electrical components and want to make sure I don't damage it, can someone on here help steer me in the right direction for what type of power cables I need? Thanks so much!
Look up recommended power cord gauge for hifi electronics...then get a nice fancy pair from Amazon
 
Oct 11, 2022 at 7:45 PM Post #6,821 of 6,903
Hi All,


I picked up a use La Figaro 339 for cheap without the two power cables. I'm not the best when it comes to electrical components and want to make sure I don't damage it, can someone on here help steer me in the right direction for what type of power cables I need? Thanks so much!
If I'm not mistaken they're normal power cables that you use for a computer etc.
 
Nov 6, 2022 at 7:34 AM Post #6,824 of 6,903
If anyone has one of the older 339’s with holes for the tube cover and wants a tube cover send me a PM and you can have it for free if you cover shipping costs. USA only.
 

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Nov 26, 2022 at 1:05 PM Post #6,825 of 6,903
Hello guys!

I've been thinking about getting the LF 339i.

But I have serious doubts if it's worth it, because I already have the Crack w/speedball with many top-of-the-line valves, such as: GEC 6as7g, WE421a, TS5998, Bendix 6080, TS 6sn7 bgrp, Brimar 6sn7, Melz 1578, among others.

My idea is to use only high impedance headphones.

Can anyone here who has both amps, or who has had them, comment on them?
 

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