tintinsnowydog
100+ Head-Fier
The particular Raytheon 6080WC I have are pretty unique I think; Raytheon branded 6080s are usually metal plates, and I've yet to come across another with such graphite plates. The important thing with tubes is never the branding, but rather the construction internally. The Bendix 6080(WB) are most notable for their graphite rather than traditionally metal anode plates. They also have ceramic rather than plastic/metal sheet micas. Since my Raytheon has the same internal parts, I would reason these tubes were made by Bendix. then bought and rebranded by Raytheon. That, and they take ages to warm up, also characteristic of their super rugged design (I believe they were originally designed for military use in guided missiles)Do you mind explaining Raytheon 6080WC = Bendix 6080WB a bit more?
And btw why you need to adapter for 6080?
Nice pic!
![Headphone Smile :) :)](https://cdn.head-fi.org/e/headfi/smily_headphones1.gif)
I've put socket savers (the bottom golden coloured one) on all the sockets in my amp as I change out tubes sometimes multiple times a day. This stops the amp's original socket from loosening/degrading over time, and I can replace the socket saver easily if I wear them out. The socket savers do not rearrange the pinout at all, just for protection purposes.
This sounds like a small internal fault or degraded component that the seller may or may not have known about when they sold it to you. It may have also been damaged during shipping. If you're handy with a multimeter, the first thing you should do is check various points on both sides are electrically identical inside the amp, given that the left channel is good. Make sure that the tube is making good contact first with the sockets as well; blow hard to remove any dust from the sockets, or if you have pressurised air even better.I am afraid these are not tubes but the amp. I used two different set of tubes (both working properly a couple of days ago) and the right channel still either crackles or is dead...
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