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La Figaro 339

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by cal8949, Jul 15, 2010.
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  1. Mizicke5273

    For the EF80 adapters, I had to contact the seller of the EF80 TO 6SN7 ones and ask them to make them EF80 to 6SJ7.
  2. tintinsnowydog
    where was the seller for ef80 to 6sn7?
  3. UntilThen
    On 2nd thoughts, I don't think it's wise to use the 6336 tubes in La Figaro. A pair of 6336 will draw 10a. Very few amps can handle that. My Glenn OTL amp is designed for it and it sounded good.
  4. Mizicke5273
  5. wwmhf
  6. tintinsnowydog
    Hey, just contacted him and got a very quick reply, he says that he stopped making them as the adapters hum and he couldn’t fix the issue. He also said that barely anyone uses ef80 in hk/China so he doesn’t make them, but can make a pair on my request. Did you encounter the same problem? I can’t imagine how an adapter may increase hum, surely it’s just the tubes?
  7. xmdkq
    I am sick and can be produced at the hospital next week and arrange delivery.
  8. tintinsnowydog
    Sorry to hear that you are unwell, hope you get better soon! I will private message you.
  9. Mizicke5273
    Yes and no, the pair of EF80 tubes I tried did have noise, but re-seating the tube and adapter resolved it. I commented on page 282 of the thread.
  10. tintinsnowydog
    Amp has arrived today but i need your help! There isn't any sound coming out even though all my tubes are lit. If i turn it all the way up to full volume i can hear a very very faint playback of the music. Do i just need to let the capacitors charge up or something? Not too sure what's going on

    If it means anything, the indicator lights are blue right now, do they change colour? ive seen pics of people's being green (i assume i would want it to be green?)
  11. Josh76
    I'd make sure the rest of your chain works properly with another amp to eliminate other factors. There is some tube warm up time but it's not long with this amp. Also, be very careful on the volume level, the gain on this amp is high and it gets ear-destroying fast.

    My indicator lights are always blue, never green. I hope it's simply warm up or a setting elsewhere in your chain. Good luck!
  12. tintinsnowydog
    I've left it on for half an hour now. On startup there is only faint sound out of one of the sides now at full volume. I've checked with another amp and it's nothing else in the chain. things aren't looking good... swapped around tubes as well, stock and non-stock all dont deliver much sound at all. Are there any secrets in using the 'push' button on the headphone jack connector?

    edit: i've plugged in my highest gain tube, it delivers very little sound but once i get to soft audible volumes it is terribly scratchy and distorted, like those bass boosted meme videos. Dont want to open up the amp but looks like i have to? Which part is likely failing?

    edit: both sides are now making volume but still only very very faint at the highest position of volume knob.

    edit again: making some sort of progress, the static is now very very loud and the music is audible too (static is about 5x louder than music) at 9 oclock. Am i just having a really bad burnin?
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
  13. xmdkq
    Change the tube test and check the signal line. It is possible that the transport will vibrate during transportation.
  14. sup27606
    This seems like a very high resistance somewhere in your signal path, or a bypass path created somewhere, worsening your signal to noise ratio, or that your input signal strength from the DAC is very weak. Also, if there is a volume control on your DAC or a digital volume level setting in your source, make sure they are set to 100%. Further diagnosis would require checking the signal path throughout the entire circuit for inconsistencies, but I would recommend contacting Yuking first instead of opening up the chassis yourself, because that could void the warranty (or wouldn’t?, may be someone knowledgeable can answer).

    It doesn’t take more than 1.5 minutes to warm up and produce sound. Also, the leds are always blue.
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2018
  15. tintinsnowydog
    Tried all the usual tests. Have communicated with Yuking, he believes that something has become displaced in the circuit due to shipping vibrations. He’s advised me to check for shorts to ground across the signal pathway (I don’t know how to do that, even need to learn how to use a multimeter). Is the “high resistance” and “bypass path” you mention something do to with wrong connections/shorting?
    I’ve found that both sides of my amp have the exact same loud crackling problem, are the two sides completely discrete? Would that help isolate the problem to any particular area, or was I just unlucky that the same connection on both sides failed? Is a fault on one side of the amp able to cause the other side to exhibit the same problem?
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