Introducing the Audeze LCD-R!

[Tchoupitoulas]

I recently sold my 2c and have a pair of 4 alongside my R. I'd say the R has a moderately warm sound signature, which is to say there's an emphasis in the mid/upper bass. By contrast, I'd characterize the 2c and 4 as dark, i.e. downward sloping from bass to treble, although the 4 has that uneven upper treble rebound, which Tyll Hertsens at Innerfidelity found objectionable.

The R has a gloriously smooth sound, like the 4, only slightly more so, I'd say. The R has a lighter tonality, too, and isn't quite so thick or rich and weighty. It sounds more nimble, thanks to its faster transient response, with snappier attacks. It does microdynamics really well and has a nice percussive sound, without having much macrodynamic contrast (not that it's lacking there). The R's bass doesn't extend as deep as the 4. The R can't handle sub-bass. The 4 excels at this. The 4 also has tighter bass. I prefer the mids of the R; they're more even and balanced.

The 2c is much less resolving, more sluggish, thicker, less even in its frequency response, and can be a bit edgy in the treble. The R's treble is lovely, if a little rolled off. The 2c, with the right amp (Schiit Mjolnir 1, 2, or Ragnarok 1.5) slams like no other headphone I've heard, and I've got a pair of the Abyss 1266 Phi.

I've not heard the 3 in my own system.

I'd recommend the R. It does enough to stand out from other Audezes and it has a very appealing, seductive sound.

 

[AcousticMatt]

I recently sold my 2c and have a pair of 4 alongside my R. I'd say the R has a moderately warm sound signature, which is to say there's an emphasis is mid/upper bass. By contrast, I'd characterize the 2c and 4 as dark, i.e. downward sloping from bass to treble, although the 4 has that uneven upper treble rebound, which Tyll Hertsens at Innerfidelity found objectionable.

The R has a gloriously smooth sound, like the 4, only slightly more so, I'd say. The R has a lighter tonality, too, and isn't quite so thick or rich and weighty. It sounds more nimble, thanks to its faster transient response, with snappier attacks. It does microdynamics really well and has a nice percussive sound, without having much macrodynamic contrast (not that it's lacking here). The R's bass doesn't extend as deep as the 4. The R can't handle sub-bass. The 4 excels at this. The 4 also has tighter bass. I prefer the mids of the R; they're more even and balanced.

The 2c is much less resolving, more sluggish, thicker, less even in its frequency response, and can be a bit edgy in the treble. The R's treble is lovely, if a little rolled off. The 2c, with the right amp (Schiit Mjolnir 1, 2, or Ragnarok 1.5) slams like no other headphone I've heard, and I've got a pair of the Abyss 1266 Phi.

I've not heard the 3 in my own system.

I'd recommend the R. It does enough to stand out from other Audezes and it has a very appealing, seductive sound.

Great writing and helpful - thank you!

 

[VandyMan]

The R has a gloriously smooth sound, like the 4, only slightly more so, I'd say. The R has a lighter tonality, too, and isn't quite so thick or rich and weighty. It sounds more nimble, thanks to its faster transient response, with snappier attacks. It does microdynamics really well and has a nice percussive sound, without having much macrodynamic contrast (not that it's lacking there). The R's bass doesn't extend as deep as the 4. The R can't handle sub-bass. The 4 excels at this. The 4 also has tighter bass. I prefer the mids of the R; they're more even and balanced.

Very well put. I had the 4 and own the R and fully agree.

I really like the 5 also, but its sound signature is completely different. (BTW, I use EQ with all of headphones including the R.)

 

[gammi]

Just bought a pair of LCD-R due to how much I love my other ribbon headphone, the CA-1a.

I bought Mitch's filters for my CA-1a and they are excellent, made my CA-1a into one of the best headphones I have heard at any price point.
I will be buying the filters for the LCD-R as well.

Also since I have a CA-1a already, I'll be able to try the LCD-R on all amps using the RAAL transformer box.
LCD-R on Bliss anyone? How about a 48wpc 300B tube amp??

 

[ThanatosVI]

Just bought a pair of LCD-R due to how much I love my other ribbon headphone, the CA-1a.

I bought Mitch's filters for my CA-1a and they are excellent, made my CA-1a into one of the best headphones I have heard at any price point.
I will be buying the filters for the LCD-R as well.

Also since I have a CA-1a already, I'll be able to try the LCD-R on all amps using the RAAL transformer box.
LCD-R on Bliss anyone? How about a 48wpc 300B tube amp??

Please report all the findings.
How they compare with and without filters.
How the LCD-R sounds with the Transformer Box etc

 

[M3NTAL]

Use caution, but the Schiit Tyr can be used dual mono direct w/o adapter. (NOT MY FINDINGS - SOME OTHER INTERNET PERSON - GRAIN OF RICE)

They have thermal protection that they will run into before getting bent out of shape - this part makes sense with their design. Your driver on the other hand - guess it depends on your source material.

 

[ThanatosVI]

Use caution, but the Schiit Tyr can be used dual mono direct w/o adapter. (NOT MY FINDINGS - SOME OTHER INTERNET PERSON - GRAIN OF RICE)

They have thermal protection that they will run into before getting bent out of shape - this part makes sense with their design. Your driver on the other hand - guess it depends on your source material.

Shouldn't most speakeramps be able to drive it directly?
Many speakeramps Support 2 Ohm speakers.

 

[gammi]

Please report all the findings.
How they compare with and without filters.
How the LCD-R sounds with the Transformer Box etc

You're in good hands, I intend to spend way too much time comparing way too many combinations

 

[M3NTAL]

Shouldn't most speakeramps be able to drive it directly?
Many speakeramps Support 2 Ohm speakers.

The list of 2ohm speakers in the Hi-Fi realm are a little bit limited. You've got to treat the LCD-R as if it were a Maggie. High current and stability at near short or very near short in the case of the RAAL. More esoteric amps probably can deal with them better. (Nelson Pass / Krell / fancy tube stuff)

Do you have any speaker amps in mind? They are going to be pretty expensive. No class D/T type stuff.

 

[ThanatosVI]

The list of 2ohm speakers in the Hi-Fi realm are a little bit limited. You've got to treat the LCD-R as if it were a Maggie. High current and stability at near short or very near short in the case of the RAAL. More esoteric amps probably can deal with them better. (Nelson Pass / Krell / fancy tube stuff)

Do you have any speaker amps in mind? They are going to be pretty expensive. No class D/T type stuff.

No amp in particular, but don't many manufacturers name power output even at 2 Ohm. I'd expect them to do that only if the amp can actually run speakers at 2 ohm.

My T+A PA2000R for instance can run 2 Ohm Speakers

 

[eskamobob1]

Shouldn't most speakeramps be able to drive it directly?
Many speakeramps Support 2 Ohm speakers.

The problem is lcdr are crazy sensitive giving noise issues with lots and lots of speaker amps

 

[ThanatosVI]

The problem is lcdr are crazy sensitive giving noise issues with lots and lots of speaker amps

Good to know.
I also inquired wether I could run them directly from the Envy

 

[GiBGUN]

The problem is lcdr are crazy sensitive giving noise issues with lots and lots of speaker amps

Oh what I would give for the sound I get out of the OOR/LCD-R, but without that noise...

 

[cwoo]

Shouldn't most speakeramps be able to drive it directly?
Many speakeramps Support 2 Ohm speakers.

I've always been afraid to try a speaker tap on my amp with the LCD-R. I currently have a Simaudio Moon 700iv1 that puts out 175W per channel into 8ohm and 500W per channel into 2ohm for speakers.

As the LCD-R presents a very consistent 2ohm load across the frequency band, I would have to imagine I would have very little play in the volume knob at all (and there is no way to adjust gain directly on the amp itself).

I've only ever used the headphone with the Jot-A which is definitely a limiting factor on the performance of the headphone system with the LCD-R, even though its still decent for the price.

I'm guessing, and after the warranty expires, if I was going to attempt to plug this headphone into the speaker taps, I would A: have to be very cautious of the volume setting, or B: introduce some type of resistance to drop the voltage/wattage down. I know that @Currawong had great results with running his LCD-R out of the Audio-Gd Master10, but I can't recall if any adjustments or resistors had to be added to the chain to keep from blowing out the headphone drivers with even the slightest volume knob increases.

I was just listening to a pair of Susvaras recently out of the Moon 700i, and was amazed by the volume setting I was using. It was similar to what I run my 8ohm full range speakers at. Yes, the Susvara is a 60ohm 80-83db sensitivity headphone and 60ohms is not 8 ohms, but it sounded great off of the taps.

The LCD-R being a 2ohm load with a 103db sensitivity makes me nervous. Even the Jot-A gives very little play on the volume knob and it was designed for it. I use Roon to drop the headroom adjustment to -15db for the Jot-A in order to give me more play on the volume knob and to drive it around the 12 o'clock mark.

 

[Currawong]

I've always been afraid to try a speaker tap on my amp with the LCD-R. I currently have a Simaudio Moon 700iv1 that puts out 175W per channel into 8ohm and 500W per channel into 2ohm for speakers.

As the LCD-R presents a very consistent 2ohm load across the frequency band, I would have to imagine I would have very little play in the volume knob at all (and there is no way to adjust gain directly on the amp itself).

I've only ever used the headphone with the Jot-R which is definitely a limiting factor on the performance of the headphone system with the LCD-R, even though its still decent for the price.

I'm guessing, and after the warranty expires, if I was going to attempt to plug this headphone into the speaker taps, I would A: have to be very cautious of the volume setting, or B: introduce some type of resistance to drop the voltage/wattage down. I know that @Currawong had great results with running his LCD-R out of the Audio-Gd Master10, but I can't recall if any adjustments or resistors had to be added to the chain to keep from blowing out the headphone drivers with even the slightest volume knob increases.

I was just listening to a pair of Susvaras recently out of the Moon 700i, and was amazed by the volume setting I was using. It was similar to what I run my 8ohm full range speakers at. Yes, the Susvara is a 60ohm 80-83db sensitivity headphone and 60ohms is not 8 ohms, but it sounded great off of the taps.

The LCD-R being a 2ohm load with a 103db sensitivity makes me nervous. Even the Jot-R gives very little play on the volume knob and it was designed for it. I use Roon to drop the headroom adjustment to -15db for the Jot-R in order to give me more play on the volume knob and to drive it around the 12 o'clock mark.

With the Master 10, it was set to a low volume level (15-35/99 I think. Lower than 15 seemed not to be good), then I use a Chord TT2 as the source/volume control. The LCD-R actually needs near zero power (50mW to get to 120dB!). IMO the problem is that at 2 Ohms, anything that can't deliver near instantaneous current (ie: anything not a speaker amp, or designed as one but with lowered gain for headphones) will result in weak bass. I think this is because, compared to a 32 Ohm headphone, it requires ~4x the current. I even found that the Studio Six, which should be fine, can't drive them well enough to give good bass either. Someone better versed in amp design can correct me if my understanding isn't right.

I only have a Master 9 (which I haven't tested them with for a while) and an R-27HE, which works well with them (though I haven't tried movie soundtracks!) so I'd go with something along those lines with a large volume range. That means Master 9P, HE-9, Ragnarok or similar.