[Azzazzi]

They are the same as in the iESL without change.

I doubt any reviewer could help understanding this. Nor does anyone left iFi, I think.

A lot of the options are superfluous or even potentially problematic outside a flexible stand alone unit for expert/knowledgeable enthusiast users.

I feel most of these should not have been carried over into an "integrated" unit.



AC termination is controversial. It creates a low impedance "AC" termination, that is a short circuit for AC on the BIAS connection.

According to some having will make your headphones explode (together with your head).

In reality it reduced crosstalk at low frequencies, via the shared bias connection. It affects soundstaging and only subtly so. I personally prefer AC termination on.

It can be independently enabled for normal out only, pro out only or both. This a carry-over from the stand alone unit that used a rotary switch to select this.



This is about matching the impedance of the iESL to driving Amplifier and/or amplifier output levels. The main adjustment is requiring either 10V input or 20V input for 320V out. It's part of making a stand alone unit flexible.

The 96 Ohm setting (and 24 Ohm) adds a protection resistor in the transformer input, this is mainly relevant with speaker amplifiers.

Think of it as kind of a gearbox, we want a constant speed (voltage at the headphone) but we have different motors (Amplifiers) to match. We do that with an adjustable reduction gear (impedance selector).

In the context of a single box unit with the electronics of the iCAN Pro, which outputs 20V RMS max, there is only one valid setting, 64 Ohm which produces 320V RMS into the headphones.

Use 16 Ohm and 24 Ohm at your own risk, this can produce up to 640V into your headphones which are rated for to only handle ~ 300V. Of course, double the voltage will be louder.

STAX originally disrecommended the iESL and noted they would no honor warranty on their headphones used with iESL, because if settings are applied wrong the extra high output voltage carries a (small) risk of damaging the headphones.

Other 3rd Party Amplifiers and even some of STAX 's own exceed 300V as well.

This was eventually resolved with STAX IIRC, but still, stick to 64 Ohm.

In my view the setting should have been either deleted and hardwired 64 Ohm for a combined unit, or the setting should have been integrated with the SD card mechanism, based on the headphones manufactureres rated maximum output.



This gain is amplifier gain. Together with the Volume control think of it as the classic gear shift and accelerator in a car.

Gain shifts gear, Volume controls the revs.

There is no specific "right" setting, it is source and headphones dependent.

A general recommendation alwith standard "potentiometer" style Volume controls is that gain should be set to allow "normal" listening levels with the control at "12 O'Clock" +/- 2.

There is no particular technical or sonic point here, other than to make sure you have enough adjustment range for volume

My own personal take is to put on a high dynamic range recording that is fairly quiet, set gain to minimum and to then turn up the volume. If I get to the end of volume control travel and want more loud, go up one gain step.

Lower gain usually means lower noise and distortion.

Thor

Thanks

They are the same as in the iESL without change.

I doubt any reviewer could help understanding this. Nor does anyone left iFi, I think.

A lot of the options are superfluous or even potentially problematic outside a flexible stand alone unit for expert/knowledgeable enthusiast users.

I feel most of these should not have been carried over into an "integrated" unit.



AC termination is controversial. It creates a low impedance "AC" termination, that is a short circuit for AC on the BIAS connection.

According to some having will make your headphones explode (together with your head).

In reality it reduced crosstalk at low frequencies, via the shared bias connection. It affects soundstaging and only subtly so. I personally prefer AC termination on.

It can be independently enabled for normal out only, pro out only or both. This a carry-over from the stand alone unit that used a rotary switch to select this.



This is about matching the impedance of the iESL to driving Amplifier and/or amplifier output levels. The main adjustment is requiring either 10V input or 20V input for 320V out. It's part of making a stand alone unit flexible.

The 96 Ohm setting (and 24 Ohm) adds a protection resistor in the transformer input, this is mainly relevant with speaker amplifiers.

Think of it as kind of a gearbox, we want a constant speed (voltage at the headphone) but we have different motors (Amplifiers) to match. We do that with an adjustable reduction gear (impedance selector).

In the context of a single box unit with the electronics of the iCAN Pro, which outputs 20V RMS max, there is only one valid setting, 64 Ohm which produces 320V RMS into the headphones.

Use 16 Ohm and 24 Ohm at your own risk, this can produce up to 640V into your headphones which are rated for to only handle ~ 300V. Of course, double the voltage will be louder.

STAX originally disrecommended the iESL and noted they would no honor warranty on their headphones used with iESL, because if settings are applied wrong the extra high output voltage carries a (small) risk of damaging the headphones.

Other 3rd Party Amplifiers and even some of STAX 's own exceed 300V as well.

This was eventually resolved with STAX IIRC, but still, stick to 64 Ohm.

In my view the setting should have been either deleted and hardwired 64 Ohm for a combined unit, or the setting should have been integrated with the SD card mechanism, based on the headphones manufactureres rated maximum output.



This gain is amplifier gain. Together with the Volume control think of it as the classic gear shift and accelerator in a car.

Gain shifts gear, Volume controls the revs.

There is no specific "right" setting, it is source and headphones dependent.

A general recommendation alwith standard "potentiometer" style Volume controls is that gain should be set to allow "normal" listening levels with the control at "12 O'Clock" +/- 2.

There is no particular technical or sonic point here, other than to make sure you have enough adjustment range for volume

My own personal take is to put on a high dynamic range recording that is fairly quiet, set gain to minimum and to then turn up the volume. If I get to the end of volume control travel and want more loud, go up one gain step.

Lower gain usually means lower noise and distortion.

Thor

Thanks Thor for that detailed info. Much obliged.

 

[Azzazzi]

I doubt the required hardware is present, for impedance fingerprinting. It was never designed into the originals.

At best you might slots to save settings, but again, seeing that the tube/solid state switching and gain are on "hard" toggle switches, I doubt these settings can be automated. Again, Hardware limitations.

If you override the hardware switches (if possible) then the switch position indicated one thing but unit does another thing, at best suboptimal and confusing.

Thor

So basically shouldn’t expect much more than a software remote from the app ? The remote is able to power on the iESL unit as well as switch between the various tube settings so maybe the switches are not so “hard” ? Also the Phantom has an automatic power saver feature which switches itself off when not in use after a certain period of time (haven’t timed it yet)

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

So basically shouldn’t expect much more than a software remote from the app ?

Highly likely. And if you push, maybe settings memories.

Ultimately the limitation is the hardware, which was build originally around a "hardware controls that indicate settings by physical position" concept for iCAN Pro (and iESL Pro).

As the "Phantom" features a screen, the whole controls operation and user interface could (and perhaps should) have been rearranged around a pure software driven paradigm.

Speaking of the OLED screen, try listening with the screen on and off. You may find there is a difference.

Also iFi (well I did) introduced configurable hardware EQ with relatively complex EQ capabilities in the Zen series. I had intended it as plug in modules but S&M insisted on it baked "hard" into the PCB in Zen CAN.

The EQ has two separate shelf "boost" sections for HF and two for LF and two more each "cut" shelf sections for HF & LF and a "bell" shaped EQ than be cut or boost. This is very flexible.

I think it's disappointing to not see something like (say) 3 or 7 different EQ card locations for 100% analogue and transparent EQ options, instead of the generic bass boost. I think such EQ capabilities would have been very popular.

Who knows, I might even have made the effort to make the EQ software configurable had I worked on this, knowing that there would have been a Bluetooth link and App support.

I guess as "flagship" amplifier it is meant to only drive flagship headphones and everyone knows flagship headphones are perfect and should never be EQ'ed.

The remote is able to power on the iESL unit as well as switch between the various tube settings so maybe the switches are not so “hard” ?

Interesting, so the unit already ignores the front panel switch settings?

Even in the original iCAN Pro all switches are software controlled, but with the appearance of pure hardware controls.

In principle everything can be overridden in software.

Also the Phantom has an automatic power saver feature which switches itself off when not in use after a certain period of time (haven’t timed it yet)

Well, that's great. How does it know you are not using it?

We discussed this feature for earlier products, I always resisted it for mains powered products. I implemented it for battery powered products, which enter a standby after 15 min with no audio playing.

Thor

 

[Azzazzi]

Interesting, so the unit already ignores the front panel switch settings?

Even in the original iCAN Pro all switches are software controlled, but with the appearance of pure hardware controls.

In principle everything can be overridden in software.

The iESL section power button toggle lights on & off when using the remote. Similarly the Tube & Gain toggles remain in the neutral (central) position but the LED shows the current settings.

Well, that's great. How does it know you are not using it?

We discussed this feature for earlier products, I always resisted it for mains powered products. I implemented it for battery powered products, which enter a standby after 15 min with no audio playing.

When there’s no audio playing through it. Could it be (as you said) because of the following feature highlighted on the ifi product page:
”The iCAN Phantom’s capacitive battery power supply, originally developed for the Pro iESL, is intrinsic to its high level of performance. Rather than relying on a mains-powered switched-mode step-up circuit, a large battery of film capacitors rated at 1,000V DC is charged and occasionally topped up using AC mains power. This ‘virtual battery pack’ delivers pure DC power, completely free from all AC and switching noise – the perfect high-voltage supply for electrostatic headphones.”
https://ifi-audio.com/products/ican-phantom/
Although the power save feature switches itself off even when the iESL section is not on

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

The iESL section power button toggle lights on & off when using the remote. Similarly the Tube & Gain toggles remain in the neutral (central) position but the LED shows the current settings.

Hmm, why have the toggle switches then, use a push button!

When there’s no audio playing through it.

Hmmm, ok. I don't see the point.

”The iCAN Phantom’s capacitive battery power supply, originally developed for the Pro iESL, is intrinsic to its high level of performance. Rather than relying on a mains-powered switched-mode step-up circuit, a large battery of film capacitors rated at 1,000V DC is charged and occasionally topped up using AC mains power. This ‘virtual battery pack’ delivers pure DC power, completely free from all AC and switching noise – the perfect high-voltage supply for electrostatic headphones.”
https://ifi-audio.com/products/ican-phantom/

This powersupply actually "misuses" the circuitry for a high end photo flash charger for flash tubes. It will charge up the film capacitors (and Electrostatic headphone) to the selected voltage and switch off. It operates at several MHz.

There is a lot of capacitance in this "capacitor bank", so it remains fully charged for many minutes.

Every few seconds the charger circuit is enabled. If there is sufficient voltage the charger does nothing and turns back off, if the voltage is low, it pumps up the charge, usually just a few tics at MHz which are over in microseconds.

There are no parts in this to wear out. The circuit should be good for >> 100k hours 24/7.

Although the power save feature switches itself off even when the iESL section is not on

Given that the iCAN Pro needs quite a bit of time stabilise operation conditions, first in terms of DC (the warming up phase - almost 1 minute) and secondly to allow the output stage to reach thermal equilibrium (~ 10 minutes) turning the unit off means you wait at least 10 minutes before optimum performance is restored.

I hope iFi gave an option to turn off this "feature"?

Thor

 

[R2Y2]

This powersupply actually "misuses" the circuitry for a high end photo flash charger for flash tubes. It will charge up the film capacitors (and Electrostatic headphone) to the selected voltage and switch off. It operates at several MHz.

If it uses everything the I can and iESL use why does it have an extra watt of power? Is it just a lie.

Do you think it would be worth it to upgrade from the Pro iESL and iCAN?

My I can power trips when trying power the Susvara, so I am guessing this will do the same?

Do you remember the output voltage of the iDSD, is it just the normal 2 volts?

Do you know if any other DAC or Amps around this price range have a bass boost option. That is the main reason I want to upgrade to the Phantom and get rid of my Pro iESL/iCAN stack?

Sorry for so many questions

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

If it uses everything the I can and iESL use why does it have an extra watt of power? Is it just a lie.

When I provided the measurements for the products I designed I was always careful to specify all conditions and to use standard test methods.

Sometimes I was asked to make numbers look better, I pointed out that that would require changes to the Test conditions.

Theoretical maximum power for the iCAN Pro is down to power supply limits. Is it possible to make a minor change in either power supply or test conditions that gives a 6.7% increase in power? Very easily. Is it a lie to "cherry pick" measurements?

In the end the difference in power is 0.3dB, so basically inaudible.

I notice a number of inconsistencies in iFi's data for the "Phantom" anyway:

15V/3A is 45W, 12V/4A is 48W and yet 75W max power consumption is claimed... Also, 27W idle seems high. The output stage only runs at 4W dissipation per channel, the small south bridge heatsinks cannot handle more without overheating. So either they fumbled the power ratings or there is a vampire load somewhere.

Do you think it would be worth it to upgrade from the Pro iESL and iCAN?

No.

My I can power trips when trying power the Susvara, so I am guessing this will do the same?

Very likely.

Would you mind to go into more detail about how you get it to do that? Do you use extreme Bass boost and Cross feed settings at very high output levels?

Do you remember the output voltage of the iDSD, is it just the normal 2 volts?

Depends on the setting on the back panel, it should be in the technical data. But there have been dodgy firmware revisions that had the switch not functioning correctly.

Do you know if any other DAC or Amps around this price range have a bass boost option. That is the main reason I want to upgrade to the Phantom and get rid of my Pro iESL/iCAN stack?

Why do you use iESL with Susvara?

No, I do not know an equivalent Amp.

You could try a Schiit Ragnarök with a Loki Max EQ. That would set you back 3k new, gives more output power and more flexible EQ.

I actually had monoblock power amp's (hybrid Class D 150W/8R & 500W into 2 Ohm) and a Cello Palette style EQ/Preamp (also hybrid) planned for the Pro Line. Like many other potentially interesting products they never materialised.

And for a refresh of the iCAN Pro I would probably have focused on more flexible EQ and better handling of low impedances.

Thor

 

[R2Y2]

Would you mind to go into more detail about how you get it to do that? Do you use extreme Bass boost and Cross feed settings at very high output levels?

It was on 18 DB plugged into the iCAN with only Bass Boost on Max, the Pro iDSD set to GTO at 768k.
Now granted, it was not plugged into the iESL Dynamic plug and I also just set the Pro iDSD to Pro Fixed mode and I can tell everything got louder, so I might try the Susvara again with these new settings plugged into the Pro iESL.

Do you have any idea what Firmware you know for sure the Back Panel voltage toggle works on?
I can't even download any Firmware or Software for my Pro iDSD because when I sent it in for service they removed the serial number sticker.

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

It was on 18 DB plugged into the iCAN with only Bass Boost on Max, the Pro iDSD set to GTO at 768k.

That's a LOT of gain. Even for Susvara.

Now granted, it was not plugged into the iESL Dynamic plug and I also just set the Pro iDSD to Pro Fixed mode and I can tell everything got louder, so I might try the Susvara again with these new settings plugged into the Pro iESL.

May I suggest the following:

Start with fresh ears (not having listened to loud music, just in from the din of the big city etc.).

Use a piece of music you are familiar with, that you consider well balanced and with good dynamics (that usually means it does not sound obviously "loud").

If in doubt, use the famous over played recording of Eagles "Hotel California", The O-Zone " Jazz Variants" or anything from a Diana Krall album. Not necessarily great music, but good recordings.

Set the iDSD Pro to HiFi (fixed). This should be the industry standard 2V SE / 4V BAL setting.

Set iCAN Pro to solid stage, 0dB Gain. All else off.

Connect your headphone, XLR4 preferred, turn the volume up until you hear music clearly, but not very loud. Turning up the volume control all the way up is ok.

Now switch iDSD to Pro (fixed). Change nothing else. The music playback should ge louder. If so, the rear selector works correct. If it does not get louder, the labels are reversed. Then just remember that the settings are labelled wrong.

ALWAYS use the actual "HiFi" setting (lower output) with the iCAN Pro.

Use XLR connections is preferred, but there is no gain difference.

Now let's set the iCAN Pro basics to match the Headphones.

Turn up the volume to between around 10...12...2 o'Clock. Do you get enough volume for comfortable listening?

If not, turn the volume to zero, switch one gain step up and turn the volume up again.

Rinse-repeat until you get comfortable listening levels with the Volume control between around 10...12...2 o'Clock. If you cannot get this range because the gain steps are too coarse, then go for the higher volume setting and lower gain setting.

Now, do we need bass boost? If the Recordings I mentioned offer great bass, then you probably do not need extra bass boost to compensate the headphones. Also, the susvara may need a smidgen bass boost compared to Harman targets:

So I think the 10Hz should be used. What that means 10Hz are boosted by 9dB, giving much more of a "subbass" kick" than even harman, 50Hz is boosted by 2dB and 200Hz is back to flat.

This would take the Susvara close to the harman target with some "physical push". The 20Hz setting boosts 50Hz by 6dB, too much to get near Harman target, this, with susara is definitely "major basshead" territory, but may be used when listening at very low volume.

Next, I'd probably recommend you set the crossfeed to 30 or 60. At least if you are normally listening to Speakers.

Remember, you still have fresh ears, not already overloaded and with temporary hearing loss from listening very loud (too much temporary hearing losses from very loud listening will cause permanent hearing loss). If you already bumped your ers, do it another day with fresh ears.

Our volume is still between 10....12...2 o'Clock or near there. The XBass setting is 10Hz, or 20Hz absolutely maximum.

Turn our "high dynamic, tonally balanced" track until the loudest parts become uncomfortably loud or so loud yu do not want "louder". If you do hit the volume control at max in this test that is fine. It does not indicate a problem. Don't expose yourself to these SPL levels for a significant amount of time, value your hearing!

Return the volume back to "comfortable listening".

Now select a LOUD track. If you do not know any specific one, Metallica "Whiskey in the Jar" should be easy to find, orif your like Metal hard and are not easily offended, Metallica "So What" (warning, highly offending lyrics). Rage Against the Machine – Killing in the Name is also pretty loud, but no match for Metallica. Metallica are LOUD!

With this track, again turn up the volume (if it is not already too loud) and see how far you can go. You will find you cannot turn up as far as before. Again, don't sustain listening that loud, at least until after we are done, set volume back to "comfortable".

Now pick up a track you like and listen to often, that is representative to what you normally listen to. No special torture tracks please.

Play it, experiment with Volume, Tube & Tube+ settings and both cross feed and bass boost. Normally should not need to shift far from the settings we had.

Again, do a test for how loud you can listen reasonably in the longer term.

DO NOT "Can I turn up everything to maximum and play something loud", you will exceed the limits of the amplifier if you do that and it will shut down. It is not a valid test. You would never listen like that, so if the Amplifier engages it's protection it does not matter.

If you have a really difficult track, try next, but again, do not try to turn up everything to maximum, but work with settings you would reasonably use for listening.

I think you will find no problem.

Tho

 

[R2Y2]

That's a LOT of gain. Even for Susvara.



May I suggest the following:

Start with fresh ears (not having listened to loud music, just in from the din of the big city etc.).

Use a piece of music you are familiar with, that you consider well balanced and with good dynamics (that usually means it does not sound obviously "loud").

If in doubt, use the famous over played recording of Eagles "Hotel California", The O-Zone " Jazz Variants" or anything from a Diana Krall album. Not necessarily great music, but good recordings.

Set the iDSD Pro to HiFi (fixed). This should be the industry standard 2V SE / 4V BAL setting.

Set iCAN Pro to solid stage, 0dB Gain. All else off.

Connect your headphone, XLR4 preferred, turn the volume up until you hear music clearly, but not very loud. Turning up the volume control all the way up is ok.

Now switch iDSD to Pro (fixed). Change nothing else. The music playback should ge louder. If so, the rear selector works correct. If it does not get louder, the labels are reversed. Then just remember that the settings are labelled wrong.

ALWAYS use the actual "HiFi" setting (lower output) with the iCAN Pro.

Use XLR connections is preferred, but there is no gain difference.

Now let's set the iCAN Pro basics to match the Headphones.

Turn up the volume to between around 10...12...2 o'Clock. Do you get enough volume for comfortable listening?

If not, turn the volume to zero, switch one gain step up and turn the volume up again.

Rinse-repeat until you get comfortable listening levels with the Volume control between around 10...12...2 o'Clock. If you cannot get this range because the gain steps are too coarse, then go for the higher volume setting and lower gain setting.

Now, do we need bass boost? If the Recordings I mentioned offer great bass, then you probably do not need extra bass boost to compensate the headphones. Also, the susvara may need a smidgen bass boost compared to Harman targets:



So I think the 10Hz should be used. What that means 10Hz are boosted by 9dB, giving much more of a "subbass" kick" than even harman, 50Hz is boosted by 2dB and 200Hz is back to flat.

This would take the Susvara close to the harman target with some "physical push". The 20Hz setting boosts 50Hz by 6dB, too much to get near Harman target, this, with susara is definitely "major basshead" territory, but may be used when listening at very low volume.

Next, I'd probably recommend you set the crossfeed to 30 or 60. At least if you are normally listening to Speakers.

Remember, you still have fresh ears, not already overloaded and with temporary hearing loss from listening very loud (too much temporary hearing losses from very loud listening will cause permanent hearing loss). If you already bumped your ers, do it another day with fresh ears.

Our volume is still between 10....12...2 o'Clock or near there. The XBass setting is 10Hz, or 20Hz absolutely maximum.

Turn our "high dynamic, tonally balanced" track until the loudest parts become uncomfortably loud or so loud yu do not want "louder". If you do hit the volume control at max in this test that is fine. It does not indicate a problem. Don't expose yourself to these SPL levels for a significant amount of time, value your hearing!

Return the volume back to "comfortable listening".

Now select a LOUD track. If you do not know any specific one, Metallica "Whiskey in the Jar" should be easy to find, orif your like Metal hard and are not easily offended, Metallica "So What" (warning, highly offending lyrics). Rage Against the Machine – Killing in the Name is also pretty loud, but no match for Metallica. Metallica are LOUD!

With this track, again turn up the volume (if it is not already too loud) and see how far you can go. You will find you cannot turn up as far as before. Again, don't sustain listening that loud, at least until after we are done, set volume back to "comfortable".

Now pick up a track you like and listen to often, that is representative to what you normally listen to. No special torture tracks please.

Play it, experiment with Volume, Tube & Tube+ settings and both cross feed and bass boost. Normally should not need to shift far from the settings we had.

Again, do a test for how loud you can listen reasonably in the longer term.

DO NOT "Can I turn up everything to maximum and play something loud", you will exceed the limits of the amplifier if you do that and it will shut down. It is not a valid test. You would never listen like that, so if the Amplifier engages it's protection it does not matter.

If you have a really difficult track, try next, but again, do not try to turn up everything to maximum, but work with settings you would reasonably use for listening.

I think you will find no problem.

Tho

Great info, will do all you recommend later today. Why not use the iDSD plugged into the iCAN on Pro Fixed and only on Hifi Fixed, will the higher voltage damage it or is it a fidelity thing?

Also, do you know why my iDSD has this static shadow of an image behind the numbers of letters. It is hard to see but you can see it, look at the 4, you can see circles and swoops in it (Kinda looks like the the number 6) along with them in the PCM?

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

Great info, will do all you recommend later today. Why not use the iDSD plugged into the iCAN on Pro Fixed and only on Hifi Fixed, will the higher voltage damage it or is it a fidelity thing?

Higher gain = lower fidelity. There will be no damage. However, the gain-staging is designed for "HiFi". You can try low gains on the iCAN Pro and iDSD Pro at the Pro setting.

Also, do you know why my iDSD has this static shadow of an image behind the numbers of letters. It is hard to see but you can see it, look at the 4, you can see circles and swoops in it (Kinda looks like the the number 6) along with them in the PCM?

Looks like "burn in", something OLED displays are infamous for.

The original Pro Prototypes actually used static On/Off LED's behind what you might call "translucent aluminum", like so:

Unfortunately these do not look good on Photos (or Video) unless you get exposure "just so" which doesn't happen in darkened rooms at hifi shows, though it looked spectacular in reality.



So a late redesign to OLED was ordered after the product was already in essence production ready and caused both production delay on an already delayed product, but it also left the usual small OLED Display problems (noise, difficult to read display at distance, burn in).

The OLED display is quite noisy and some of this bleeds into the audio (arguably at < -130dB). Still, I fond the iDSD Pro sounds best with the display completely off. Running the display at high brightness will cause burn in - I think what you see are the big numbers from the most common sample rate displayed.

Thor

 

[Azzazzi]

Came across some interesting links while searching for the ifi Nexis app
https://fccid.io/2A5QJ-IFINEXIS/User-Manual/User-manual-6664671.pdf

And the Phantom manual (Finally!!)
https://media.ifi-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/iCAN-Phantom-User-Manual_Ver0.21.pdf

The search (duck-duck-go) showed 1 result each to Google & Apple stores which were dead ends

 

[JMR77]

Well, looking over the PCB's, I see no material design changes from my original designs.

Key differences are in the way the system is controlled, the addition of an OLED screen, replacing hardware switching with software driven push-buttons and using SD Cards for some settings (which leads to the question why you cannot use an SD Card to store all settings of the System (as here are many settings) per each headphone you own, with a lock out for the ES Headphone voltage), which would make the product easier to use.



That's on marketing. As said, in terms of sound quality I expect no change from iCAN Pro & iESL Pro.

Thor

As owner of both the original Pro ICAN and the IESL it’s great to get advice from the designer, I was also wondering whether Phantom would make sense to me and this feedback was helpful and much appreciated.

May I ask if there’s a noticeable improvement sound wise in "upgrading" from the original ICAN to the Signature version? and would just adding the Elite power supply to the original ICAN provide equivalent improvements (if any)?

Thanks

 

[Azzazzi]

The Manual (which looks like a WIP) lays out most of my queries.
@ Thor what do you think ?
https://media.ifi-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/iCAN-Phantom-User-Manual_Ver0.21.pdf

 

[Thorsten Loesch]

May I ask if there’s a noticeable improvement sound wise in "upgrading" from the original ICAN to the Signature version?

I know reviewers waxed lyrically about how much better. I see little evidence of actual changes that would have a positive impact on perceived sound quality.

and would just adding the Elite power supply to the original ICAN provide equivalent improvements (if any)?

First, "Elite" is basically 90%+ the same guts as the "Plus" in a fancy case. Save your pennies.

Second, I discussed the "Pro" power supplies and why they are fairly insensitive to external power extensively on a forum where audio friends are super best.

I don't think posting a link here would be cricket, PM me for a link if google proves elusive.

Thor