[INGRAMLI]

I have probably built more cable (30+) for ER4SR/XR than anyone out there and the MMCX connector on the SR/XR is as standard as it can be, especially consider no one has came back to me complaining a broken MMCX connector after almost 2 years of making these cable. I tested each of them with my own ER4SR first and my ER4SR is still working just fine. I think your case is most likely an outlier / lemon if anything else.

I am unsure for the real cause of loose contact, that is just my speculation. The following are some facts which may helps in finding out the real cause,

- The MMCX connector used was Double Helix Cables';
- The connection of the mmcx connector to the driver is not 100% fixed due to the lack of the lock mechanism which is on the stock cable connector (it rotates occasionally during wearing)
- Bad connection occurs after using the aftermarket cable for around 1 year, which WD40 solved it, but only temporarily, it occurs again 1-2 days later
- After i broke the driver, i inspected the broken pins of the driver and found that it is oxidized (some contact areas turned into black/brown color)

Here's is my second guess (If dimension of mmcx connector is not the issue),
The diy cable used does not come with a lock mechanism design which is on the stock cable, and the rotation between the mmcx connector with the driver during daily usage caused the pins of the driver to (eventually) spread apart, and worn out the gold plate on the pins, resulting in oxidization and bad contact. To fix the problem a way to "lock" the connector to the driver preventing rotation has to be found out.....

 

[davidcotton]

I am unsure for the real cause of loose contact, that is just my speculation. The following are some facts which may helps in finding out the real cause,

- The MMCX

Just my experiences with mmcx have not been good. No problems with 2 pin other than user error.

 

[ClieOS]

I am unsure for the real cause of loose contact, that is just my speculation. The following are some facts which may helps in finding out the real cause,

- The MMCX connector used was Double Helix Cables';
- The connection of the mmcx connector to the driver is not 100% fixed due to the lack of the lock mechanism which is on the stock cable connector (it rotates occasionally during wearing)
- Bad connection occurs after using the aftermarket cable for around 1 year, which WD40 solved it, but only temporarily, it occurs again 1-2 days later
- After i broke the driver, i inspected the broken pins of the driver and found that it is oxidized (some contact areas turned into black/brown color)

Here's is my second guess (If dimension of mmcx connector is not the issue),
The diy cable used does not come with a lock mechanism design which is on the stock cable, and the rotation between the mmcx connector with the driver during daily usage caused the pins of the driver to (eventually) spread apart, and worn out the gold plate on the pins, resulting in oxidization and bad contact. To fix the problem a way to "lock" the connector to the driver preventing rotation has to be found out.....

It is well known that MMCX has a weak spot - the free rotation plus dirt / sweat getting into the MMCX socket eventually will wear it out, either causing the center pins to misaligned or oxidize . A good example will be early Shure (especially early SE215) that suffered a lot of RMA due to connection failure. I have actually personally heard a rep from local Shure's distributor complained about the issue to a shop owner who had to RMA'ed quite a few of them. Etymotic's solution to this problem is to use a notch to lock the pin into one position, plus the extra plastic surrounding the socket will somewhat protect it against dust / sweat (also the shape of the driver helps as well). Another solution comes from the MMCX maker in China where they adapt the 'expending' MMCX design, where the sleeve (outer ring) of the MMCX connector is spitted in either 2 or 4 ways and expend slightly outward - this cause the sleeve to grip against the MMCX socket and stop the whole assembly from free rotation. The latest innovation I have seen on MMCX is that some MMCX socket maker begin to add extra plastic around the center slot to reinforce it further against misalignment.

In any case, you should know that there are DIY MMCX connector out there that are specifically built for Etymotic ER4SR/XR and has the notch in place to stop free rotation. Many aftermarket cable already use them. If you get a cable without these specialized MMCX connector, then of course there will be a higher chance it will fail after awhile.

Here is an example of the locking MMCX connector for ER4SR/XR. I built this cable myself:

 

[INGRAMLI]

It is well known that MMCX has a weak spot - the free rotation plus dirt / sweat getting into the MMCX socket eventually will wear it out, either causing the center pins to misaligned or oxidize . A good example will be early Shure (especially early SE215) that suffered a lot of RMA due to connection failure. I have actually personally heard a rep from local Shure's distributor complained about the issue to a shop owner who had to RMA'ed quite a few of them. Etymotic's solution to this problem is to use a notch to lock the pin into one position, plus the extra plastic surrounding the socket will somewhat protect it against dust / sweat (also the shape of the driver helps as well). Another solution comes from the MMCX maker in China where they adapt the 'expending' MMCX design, where the sleeve (outer ring) of the MMCX connector is spitted in either 2 or 4 ways and expend slightly outward - this cause the sleeve to grip against the MMCX socket and stop the whole assembly from free rotation. The latest innovation I have seen on MMCX is that some MMCX socket maker begin to add extra plastic around the center slot to reinforce it further against misalignment.

In any case, you should know that there are DIY MMCX connector out there that are specifically built for Etymotic ER4SR/XR and has the notch in place to stop free rotation. Many aftermarket cable already use them. If you get a cable without these specialized MMCX connector, then of course there will be a higher chance it will fail after awhile.

Here is an example of the locking MMCX connector for ER4SR/XR. I built this cable myself:

Not aware of such specifically designed connector for er4sr/xr as i built my cable around 2 years ago (which i believe not yet exist at that time), nevertheless i have already spotted it in Taobao and ordered a pair, and i should be able to use the diy cable soon again, safely. Not 100% happy as I cant find really exotic connector (specifically designed for er4sr/xr), though (the one i found cost less than RMB100 a pair, most likely not made of pure copper, probably brass).....

 

[Dobrescu George]

I'm a audiophile basshead though.. I've read the er4xr has great bass but not pushed hard. That sounds Great to me. I'm used to studio monitor sound too. I use JBL and KRK at my studio.

Go for them in this case

But you're not a basshead, you just love clean and quick bass

a basshead is one that loves high amounts of bass, if you're used to monitor studios, you most probably prefer quality and lower quantity

 

[redrol]

Definitely quality over quantity and yet, i've heard a lot of audiophile tuned bass that is way less than was actually recorded. It's the one thing that scares me.

Man, it's a lot to pay. I'm still deciding.

 

[Dobrescu George]

Definitely quality over quantity and yet, i've heard a lot of audiophile tuned bass that is way less than was actually recorded. It's the one thing that scares me.

Man, it's a lot to pay. I'm still deciding.

I agree though - I was there when some records were recorded, and would say ER4XR renders less than was recorded. But as some have pointed out, it is possible I didn't have a perfect fit / seal - you need to push them deep to hear them correctly, maybe I didn't fit them quite deep enough

If you're in the ~400 USD price range or so, for something with a really neutral yet quick bass, you could consider a few options

 

[FastAndClean]

can anybody tell me how to remove the cable on my ER4S, should i just pull slow or something else, my 2.5mm aftermarket cable will be here on Monday

 

[ClieOS]

can anybody tell me how to remove the cable on my ER4S, should i just pull slow or something else, my 2.5mm aftermarket cable will be here on Monday

Pull slowly. It will be tight the first time and lossen up in the future. You can also use something flat and hard to pry it slightly while pulling.

 

[FastAndClean]

Pull slowly. It will be tight the first time and lossen up in the future. You can also use something flat and hard to pry it slightly while pulling.

thank you, i cant wait, the new cable is a lot better than the stock, i love my ER4S

 

[JohnYang1997]

Measurements for the NEW NEW Etymotic ER2SE
https://accufidelity.blogspot.com/2019/04/etymotic-er2se-measurements.html

 

[FastAndClean]

Measurements for the NEW NEW Etymotic ER2SE
https://accufidelity.blogspot.com/2019/04/etymotic-er2se-measurements.html

very low THD, well done

 

[JohnYang1997]

And ahhh it's not April Fools fellows. It legitimately arrived a few hours ago.

 

[FastAndClean]

And ahhh it's not April Fools fellows. It legitimately arrived a few hours ago.

photo or it never happened

 

[HAMS]

And ahhh it's not April Fools fellows. It legitimately arrived a few hours ago.

How DD's bass sound? Sloppier?