The D6 is a very nice sounding amp. I think when using the Aux input, the SQ will be very similar to that of the D4, assuming the use of the same opamps. I haven't yet had a chance to do any A=B comparisons with my D4 using the USB input, but for those who can use the 192k capability, the D6 will be a welcome addition to the iBasso line of portables.
Thanks Ron - I would still like to hear the D12 into the P4 : so many options in terms of connecting various sources, particularly for those of us who want to use the gear in a desktop or bedside rig over strictly portable use. It certainly wouldn't be a cheap option, but for those who already have one amp or the other ......
Just received mine. no burn in obviously.
FLAC via laptop> usb DAC via D6> AKG K271
Worth every penny.
My main gripe with the K271's was the lack of lower frequency response. This amp really lets the lows shine.
Its also tinier than i thought it was going to be (a plus).
I envy you guys. Still waiting for updates from my local retailer. Hope it'll reach some time this week. *chuckles* So excited over receiving my Sennheiser HD650 and iBasso D6.
For those who also have the D4 Topkit, you can safely use it with the D6 despite the higher supply voltage. They both share very similar amp sections so the same Topkit will be used for both models.
For those who also have the D4 Topkit, you can safely use it with the D6 despite the higher supply voltage. They both share very similar amp sections so the same Topkit will be used for both models.
For those who also have the D4 Topkit, you can safely use it with the D6 despite the higher supply voltage. They both share very similar amp sections so the same Topkit will be used for both models.
So I’ve been running the D6 via the 5V USB and it has been running beautifully. I’m a little disappointed in the actual amp though. It’s just not loud enough. I’m using low impedance headphones (K271 MKII 55ohms) and different sources. Through my iphone (headphone jack not line out) it seems to be doing the job pretty decently. The volume is at 2:30 position with source at 95%. Using my Sansa Clip, the source is at 100% and D6 volume knob is fully turned. It’s not loud enough. My question is, will I see a problem when I purchase higher impedance cans in the future? I thought the 12.4V battery was suppose to give this little amp more juice? Blah what gives?? Is there something terribly simple that I’m missing? The gain switch is turned to the top position because the lower position is just too low.
It would seem your input is to low, the voltage out from your source. I have zero problem with any of my phones regarding volume and can not go past 12 oclock. That includes the LCD-2, which sounds excellent with it. I prefer the higher voltage setting over the USB setting for any of the demanding phones, which makes sense but the voltage does not affect volume, just headroom/power.
Jamato, what sources are you using? can you try (if you have one) using a Sansa clip or an iphone. both of my sources are turned to 100%. The iphone is loud enough at 2:30 but the sansa clip is completely turned to the 5 o clock position and its not even close to being loud. Im using the battery mode as well and not the usb mode.These cans are suppose to be easy to drive. they are almost the same volume amped or unamped using the clip.
I keep seeing the assumption that high impedance cans are somehow "hard to drive" but a comparably low Z amp can also be very "hard to drive." It really depends more on efficiency than impedance, until you are at very high or very low impedances. Efficiency is correlated to how much power is required. Because calculating power using actual impedance is complex, I'll simplify and discuss as if the headphone was a simple resistor to make the math more obvious.
Efficiency is measured in dB/mW, or decibels per milliwatt and milliwatts are a measure of power.
In a purely resistive load (assuming an ideal resistive instead of reactive headphone, to simplify the math) the formula for Power is: P = VI (Voltage x Current).
Since V = IR, where R is resistance, P = V x V/R or or P = I x I x R. From this you can see that power can be considered either by looking at current or voltage. If the device is very inefficient and has high impedance, you need a lot of voltage but not much current to reach peak sound levels. If the device is very low impedance then you need a lot of current (and also low amplifier output impedance so all the power isn't lost as heat in the amp).
Since every 3dB of efficiency decrease requires twice as much power to generate the same volume, you can see why "high impedance" phones will make amps run out of voltage quickly if the headphone is not efficient.
This is not the only way to determine "best fit" for an amp/phone impedance match, but it's a good rule of thumb that I use.
IF:
1) Phone is efficient (e.g. IEM) very little V or I are needed to generate enough P to make your ears bleed
2) If Phone is not efficient and has HIGH impedance than you want an amp with a lot of voltage swing, but maybe not much current
3) If Phone is not efficient and has LOW impedance, you need an amp with strong output current capacity and low output impedance
Hope that is as clear as mud.
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