Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif The 470uf caps would be the best to bypass with the .47. The 220uf with a .22. You want to work in multiples of 10 when bypassing for best response.
If you are going to use Black Gates then I would get them soon as they haven't been made for a few years and stock is running out and nothing is like them or near as good. Hopefully something will come along but nothing is on the horizon right now.
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you are going to use Black Gates then I would get them soon as they haven't been made for a few years and stock is running out and nothing is like them or near as good. Hopefully something will come along but nothing is on the horizon right now.
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you are going to use Black Gates then I would get them soon as they haven't been made for a few years and stock is running out and nothing is like them or near as good. Hopefully something will come along but nothing is on the horizon right now.
Thanks for the heads up. Any way you could describe the level of upgrade that the black gate mods would bring to the D10? D10 is my first amp (new to Head-Fi) and I was very impressed by the improvements I noticed from rolling stock op amps to TLE 2141-BCA with TLE 8201 buffers. Would this be even close to as worthwhile? Thanks.
Edit
Just wanted to mention that Sennheiser IE8 are my only high end phones so far. I'm planning on getting high end full-size cans, but not for awhile. Any distinctions between how the black mod upgrades would improve my IEM vs full-size cans would also be appreciated.
The newer caps that iBasso are now using is something I have not heard so I can't compare to them only to the first caps used. There is a little better bass response, the sound is faster and just a general mild improvement in sound quality. The mod isn't easy so you need experience in soldering in tight situations and thinking about the layout.
Originally Posted by theory_87 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Which cap did you bypass with .47uf BG? I replace the red wima caps with .47uf bg cap.. pics will be nice too
the 470, thinking of replacing the wimas as wel, although wimas are quite good as well. will try and get some pics up ASAP, dont have a decent macro personally, so will try and borrow my friends if possible. also wont be around much in the next week as i'm flat out here, have been waiting for supplies to arrive from PCX and a few other places, most arrived today, but work and casing my Buffalo32 takes priority ATM sorry
I will get some up ASAP though
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif The 470uf caps would be the best to bypass with the .47. The 220uf with a .22. You want to work in multiples of 10 when bypassing for best response.
yep, thats the theory, or as close as possible. if I can squeeze any more room (doubtful) I would like to try bypassing the 220uf with some .1 I have laying about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you are going to use Black Gates then I would get them soon as they haven't been made for a few years and stock is running out and nothing is like them or near as good. Hopefully something will come along but nothing is on the horizon right now.
yep i've been buying up, but they have been saying its running out for quite a while now and I havent had any problems finding the values I need generally. (47,22,.47,.1) and the larger type N lately for a few mods. will likely replace the PSU caps in the LCDPS of my B32 at some point too.
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Originally Posted by wuwhere /img/forum/go_quote.gif I bought mine from Soniccraft (Black Gate Audio Capacitors) just last week, not cheap.
even percy ran out of 22uf last week, but I do think he is getting more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif The newer caps that iBasso are now using is something I have not heard so I can't compare to them only to the first caps used. There is a little better bass response, the sound is faster and just a general mild improvement in sound quality. The mod isn't easy so you need experience in soldering in tight situations and thinking about the layout.
yeah my D10 came back from getting the mini jacks replaced with the full update including the new caps
seemed to have upped the ante on the bass response for the couple days I had them in
so I dont have a good gauge on them either as they were fresh. just rolled in OPA211 in I/V position a couple minutes ago too, great sounding; seing if there is any difference between them and the 1611 as they are suppose to be basically the same. will report back in a few days on them. Too right on the tight fit!! agreed it wouldnt be something I would recommend someone noob try with no experience soldering things into tight spots. squeezing USB and blackgates into Low pro LOds is pretty good practice though; thats tighter than this, but not as vulnerable or expensive if stuffed up
i am glad this thread is generating some interesting exchange of information! I may have a friend perform the black gate mod for me, but will see how i feel with just the topkit at this point. as i am a beginner at DIY, i thought it would be interesting to get a list going and rate them as far as difficulty and positive results.
Greetings! I have just installed HiFlight's topkit, which is composed of a Class A TLE2141 module with a pair of modified dummy buffers, and a set of EL8201 buffers. I am running the EL8201 buffers and must say that almost immediately out of the starting gate this kit is thrilling!
To be honest, I will break down my upgrades in order of positive effectiveness (towards an audiophile goal):
- new headphones on stock laptop output (Audio Technica ATH-M50's..about $110 including shipping from provantage.)
- D10!!!!!!!
- moving from USB to optical (not even to coax yet, which will transpire soon next week)
- rolling op-amps/buffers
that being said, i must comment on the most compelling changes heard by the new Topkit from HiFlight:
- there is absolutely no sibilance at all! at this point i can almost say that i dislike high frequencies completely because i know that there is no sibiliance, i am not experiencing any listener fatigue, although i still desire a less bright sound sig. that being said, the highs i do hear are REMARKABLE. unbelievable realism in these highs...almost enough so that it can convince a listener that electronic music was derived from manmade artifacts!
- there is a smoother, less boomy bass response. i have felt that it is a little less overwhelming than before, but in a completely satisfying manner. the bass that used to put a characteristic haze over instruments in my previous setup has all but lifted, leaving space for a newer, better controlled bass that stays where it belongs and only strives to complement the existing sounds without dominating them.
overall, a wonderful upgrade and for only $60 it is not much, albeit a bit much when compared to the total cost of the D10. That being said, I do believe that this kit takes the D10 into a realm that has yet to be explored by portable rigs!
*Please, anybody reading this review, keep in mind my lack of experience regarding a large variety of rigs and take my observations with a grain of salt. all observations are based on previous findings with this exact setup and any reference material was never used to review any other alternate setups.*
Do the left and right opamps need to be single channel, or can I use some two channel opamps I already have?
For the buffer, can it be a single channel?
On the same note, for dual opamps, should I use a single channel opamp (mounted as IC1) with a buffer (mounted as IC2)? Would using two single channel opamps be an improvement or a waste?
so i talked to the friend that i planned on commissioning to install the BG Caps...turns out he is too nervous to do it and does not feel confident working with something that small.
As i have no soldering ability whatsoever, i am opening up this request to anyone who is proficient in the necessary skills and willing to purchase and/or install the appropriate Black Gate caps in my D10. I picture this working best where I either buy the caps and send them along with the D10 or simply send the D10 to you, provided you have the necessary caps on hand already.
i don't know if we need a document to describe liability in the event that something goes wrong, etc., however, i am confident that there have been several arrangements like this performed successfully in the past and that somebody knows the best way to proceed...
while we are at it, does anybody know of a higher quality chassis mount digital RCA connector? i was searching through Vampirewire.com but it seems that the only connectors that looked like a worthy upgrade are analog RCA and not digital. i dont really know the physical differences between analog and digital RCA connectors/cables, or if one even exists. i am confident that someone does, though, and if anybody thinks that this would be a worthwhile upgrade then why not perform it at the same time?
i was referencing this vampire part: Vampire Wire - #CM2F/CB
(i know they come in pairs, hence my hesitance, but i just don't know if there is a difference.)
anyone who is interested in helping out a complete DIY n00b with unlimited audiophile aspirations then please send me a PM!
The only mods that I look forward are,
1) how to eliminate or lowering the noise floor, when the charging circuit kicks in, and
2) to make the USB mode as good as SPDIF
I was looking through the other threads for anyone with issues similar to mine, with no luck (though i may just have not seen them). Whats happening, and i believe it started after i replaced the opamps with some of the ones from the stock kit, is whenever i turn on and set the volume of the D10, there are strange shuffling fuzz noises, like static. Sounds like electrical interference, and i'm worried that i may have harmed some of the components. The sound only occurs during that initial turn on however. Any ideas/experiences?
some of tyhe opamps in that kit are vulnerable to RF interference. I would say that is what you are hearing. try changing it back and see if you have the same issues. I cant remember which one it was, but there was one in particular that was really bad and I would pick up all sorts of interference
Do the left and right opamps need to be single channel, or can I use some two channel opamps I already have?
For the buffer, can it be a single channel?
On the same note, for dual opamps, should I use a single channel opamp (mounted as IC1) with a buffer (mounted as IC2)? Would using two single channel opamps be an improvement or a waste?
In the D10, the L-R channel single socket can only accept a dual-channel opamp. Single-channel ones can be installed on a 2 to 1 adapter, but the adapter does not clear the Aux/Input Output socket unless you use a low-profile DIP socket to raise it a bit. If you do that, you can only use SOIC opamps on the adapter, otherwise there is not clearance between the opamps and the top of the case. Some single-channel opamps such as the AD743, 744, sound quite good. There are, however, dual-channels that sound just as good.
A 2>1 adapter can be used without the spacer socket if you are using DIP-style opamps, but one end will rest on the Input socket and the adapter will not set square. Sometimes you can get a good connection, sometimes not.
Both buffers must be dual-channel opamps, period.
I don't really understand your 3rd question, but you cannot use single-channel buffers in the D10.
To keep it simple, use only dual-channel opamps in LR socket, and matching dual-channel opamps in each buffer socket.
If you want really long battery life with a good SQ, try an AD8616 in LR and dummy buffers in both buffer sockets.
Hope this helps. If you need additional info, feel free to drop me a PM.
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