[Triode User]

I agree - to me R2R sound as bad as they measure, and when you measure them they are not fit for purpose. So I too don't understand where fans of this are coming from.

Subjective assessment does not need to be impossible - if you are very careful, and evaluate different parameters separately, it is entirely possible to objectively quantify subjective listening tests - but it is very hard to do accurately.

I compared a friend's £5k R2R dac and my Qutest knocked it into a cocked hat. There was no real competition. There is a craze at the moment for a particular expensive R2R dac with add on digital boxes and I think they are just doing the classic mistake of confusing a different sound with better. Five minutes is the maximum time I have endured a R2R dac before wanting to turn it off.

 

[Ragnar-BY]

So what to do about EQ? Any other ideas?

If you absolutely need EQ, try Roon. TT2’s headphone output is too good to add anything to it. Loki and amplifier would degrade sound.

 

[varadero xl1000v]

I agree - to me R2R sound as bad as they measure, and when you measure them they are not fit for purpose. So I too don't understand where fans of this are coming from.

Subjective assessment does not need to be impossible - if you are very careful, and evaluate different parameters separately, it is entirely possible to objectively quantify subjective listening tests - but it is very hard to do accurately.

Mr. Rob Good morning.

First let me remind you that I have ordered the MScaler that will accompany the Chord Hugo tt2 I have already bought.

If your position as a Chord designer allows it, I would like to have your opinion on:

1. if in the above set (tt2, M Scaler), can be connected to an external usb Master Clock, and if so, do you suggest it?

2. What is it? your opinion on network switches? Do you suggest it?

Mr. Rob, my intention is to do my digital playback as best I can, apart from what I mention, is there anything else that the user - music lover could do? Is it something

PS 1: I listen from a HiFi system, not a headset

PS 2: The internet connection I have at home is vdsl 50 mbps

PS 3: My listening space has been measured by professional audio, and the speakers are placed correctly.

PS 4: My main music sources are qobuz and Tidal, via roon / Auralic Aries G 1 streamer.

Thank you very much, I'm waiting for your reply ..

 

[Rob Watts]

I don't see the point in USB clocks, as of course the data is taken out of the USB decoder device by the DAC as it is isochronous asynchronous; and improving the timing of packets going into the USB decoder I don't see as an issue - indeed you are more likely to increase overall RF noise and make it sound artificially brighter by doing this.

TT2 is galvanically isolated and the isolation is after the USB decoder. The benefit of this is the USB decoding noise is on the dirty side, not the DAC side. So technically, adding extra devices in the source path to my mind can only increase RF noise within your local environment.

I have to admit not having any experience of network switches - my music sources are lap-tops with a 5TB portable hard disk for my music and my mobile phone. Since pre-covid my needs were portability, as I spent 1/3 of my time outside of the UK - hence the 5TB portable hard disk.

 

[N Quarter]

So what to do about EQ? Any other ideas?

How do you know you will need an EQ with the Mscaler/TT2 ? I used to own a Supernait 2, and I tried the headphone output once, not very good at all. The Mscaler/TT2 is in a completely different league , and I suspect you that will be all you need. Most people I hear about using EQ are usually doing it in Roon I believe, but personally I do not see, or hear a need to use EQ.

 

[silkytoad]

I exclusively listen to digital music. Ny setup consists of Digital Streamer -> MScaler -> TT2 -> Riviera Headphone Amp (power amp, no volume control) through TT2 RCA out. I am not using any additional preamplifier and use the volume knob of the TT2. I would like to have the flexibility of adding another power amp to my system for speakers. Is it possible to connect the second amp to my TT2 though the XLR out? Are there any risks in doing so? Will playing music output to my two amps at the same time? So I only turn on the amp that I will be using (headphone or speaker)? Any other suggestions?

 

[Toonartist]

How do you know you will need an EQ with the Mscaler/TT2 ? I used to own a Supernait 2, and I tried the headphone output once, not very good at all. The Mscaler/TT2 is in a completely different league , and I suspect you that will be all you need. Most people I hear about using EQ are usually doing it in Roon I believe, but personally I do not see, or hear a need to use EQ.

I've played around with Roon eq for speakers and headphones using a G1, MScaler into a TT2 and apart from headphones Focal Elegia, I didn’t find any benefit from using it. As you know, I’m feeding PMC 25.22 speakers directly via XLR connection and also have Meze Empyrean headphones. both sounded excellent without any EQ and to my ears, the character of the speakers and headphones were lost when you try to change too much. I basically used, selected speaker and headphon cables to fine tune the sound... which was enough.

The focal Elegia did benefit from lifting the mids but again, the more tweaks you make the easier it is to make things worse. Any adjustments with EQ should be minor from my experience rather than trying to change the sound.

 

[GreenBow]

Had a scare tonight. Thought my TT2 was going to have to go in for repair. It was not responding to the remote control very much. Only a very few buttons responded and not all the time.

I changed the remote control batteries twice, and checked if the remote was transmitting and it was. Just by luck I have an IR in the top front USB port of my PC. While my TT2 remote doesn't operate my PC IR. When any remote is used near it, it lights-up red with every remote control button press. However that wasn't happening, and the IR was actually permanently red so something was wrong. (That was the stroke of luck, because I saw the PC IR remote and wondered why it was lit red.) I checked all my other remotes to make sure one did not have a button pressed on somehow, but no.

However with my PC IR being permanently lit, I figured the issue was not the TT2. Something was triggering an IR signal that was permanently switched on. I could not work out what it was, gave up, and turned off the main overhead ceiling light. … That fixed it. … My low energy light-bulb was triggering my IR receivers.

I put the light back on and the remotes stopped working properly. Switched off the light and the remotes were working again. I googled for it, and it is a true that it happens. Low energy light bulbs can flicker in the IR light range.

 

[Dodgerowl]

The attraction is...... they come with a free ladder.

The attraction is...... they come with a free ladder.

 

[Dodgerowl]

[/QUOTE]
Apologies all, I am still getting the hang of posting. Just wanted to thank Amberlamps for the time and effort he has put into helping me over the last few days with an issue with my TT2. It was far beyond anything I could have reasonably expected from anybody and has been greatly appreciated.
Back to being a thread lurker now.....
Cheers, Rodger.

 

[andrewd01]

Had a scare tonight. Thought my TT2 was going to have to go in for repair. It was not responding to the remote control very much. Only a very few buttons responded and not all the time.

I changed the remote control batteries twice, and checked if the remote was transmitting and it was. Just by luck I have an IR in the top front USB port of my PC. While my TT2 remote doesn't operate my PC IR. When any remote is used near it, it lights-up red with every remote control button press. However that wasn't happening, and the IR was actually permanently red so something was wrong. (That was the stroke of luck, because I saw the PC IR remote and wondered why it was lit red.) I checked all my other remotes to make sure one did not have a button pressed on somehow, but no.

However with my PC IR being permanently lit, I figured the issue was not the TT2. Something was triggering an IR signal that was permanently switched on. I could not work out what it was, gave up, and turned off the main overhead ceiling light. … That fixed it. … My low energy light-bulb was triggering my IR receivers.

I put the light back on and the remotes stopped working properly. Switched off the light and the remotes were working again. I googled for it, and it is a true that it happens. Low energy light bulbs can flicker in the IR light range.

Interesting. There was a guy last year reporting that his remote was not working, I wander if it was the same issue. Does it only happen when the low energy light bulbs are at the end of their service life? Can you give more info about the type of globe used so we can avoid buying them?

Listening in the dark would be quite inconvenient, however I have found I don’t faff with the volume much. I just turn on the Tt2 and listen.

 

[GreenBow]

Interesting. There was a guy last year reporting that his remote was not working, I wander if it was the same issue. Does it only happen when the low energy light bulbs are at the end of their service life? Can you give more info about the type of globe used so we can avoid buying them?

Listening in the dark would be quite inconvenient, however I have found I don’t faff with the volume much. I just turn on the Tt2 and listen.

The bulb is a diall NHSHR35 2700k 35w. It's not near end of life: I think it's been running maybe two years. I use it only very rarely though.




When I googled there were results about TVs and set top boxes were changing channels. …. If you want to google search, look for something like, 'low energy light bulb affecting remote control'.

I think it might be specific to the CFL ones though, so not LEDs. (CFL - compact fluorescent lamp)

 

[varadero xl1000v]

Had a scare tonight. Thought my TT2 was going to have to go in for repair. It was not responding to the remote control very much. Only a very few buttons responded and not all the time.

I changed the remote control batteries twice, and checked if the remote was transmitting and it was. Just by luck I have an IR in the top front USB port of my PC. While my TT2 remote doesn't operate my PC IR. When any remote is used near it, it lights-up red with every remote control button press. However that wasn't happening, and the IR was actually permanently red so something was wrong. (That was the stroke of luck, because I saw the PC IR remote and wondered why it was lit red.) I checked all my other remotes to make sure one did not have a button pressed on somehow, but no.

However with my PC IR being permanently lit, I figured the issue was not the TT2. Something was triggering an IR signal that was permanently switched on. I could not work out what it was, gave up, and turned off the main overhead ceiling light. … That fixed it. … My low energy light-bulb was triggering my IR receivers.

I put the light back on and the remotes stopped working properly. Switched off the light and the remotes were working again. I googled for it, and it is a true that it happens. Low energy light bulbs can flicker in the IR light range.

I confess that this is the first time I hear this !!

 

[Hooster]

The bulb is a diall NHSHR35 2700k 35w. It's not near end of life: I think it's been running maybe two years. I use it only very rarely though.




When I googled there were results about TVs and set top boxes were changing channels. …. If you want to google search, look for something like, 'low energy light bulb affecting remote control'.

I think it might be specific to the CFL ones though, so not LEDs. (CFL - compact fluorescent lamp)

Is someone actually still using this kind of bulb? They are ugly, bad for the environment and inefficient. Now it turns out they have another drawback. Thanks for sharing your story. Consider changing to LEDs.

https://www.viribright.com/lumen-output-comparing-led-vs-cfl-vs-incandescent-wattage/

 

[GreenBow]

Is someone actually still using this kind of bulb? They are ugly, bad for the environment and inefficient. Now it turns out they have another drawback. Thanks for sharing your story. Consider changing to LEDs.

https://www.viribright.com/lumen-output-comparing-led-vs-cfl-vs-incandescent-wattage/

I didn't know CFLs were bad for the environment. Since you said, I googled it and found they contain mercury, so have to be disposed of carefully. I guess there will regulations for it.

I was holding off moving to LEDs, although I bought two recently. The reason was I read a story that the light from LED bulbs was damaging eyesight. That was maybe two years ago. I have no idea if it was true or not. I was going to wait until there was more research, before moving to LEDs.