[zen87192]

It looks like @rkt31 has!

Yes... this was what prompted me to reaching out for further recommendations and outcomes. Very interested before I even consider those Wave cables.....

 

[rkt31]

I've been using a pair of BNC's made from Oyaide FTVS-510 75 Ohm Pure Silver Coaxial Digital Cable with a TQ Silver Diamond USB / SRC-DX. No Ferrites and the sound quality is exceptional. The solid 5n silver core is so thick it only just fits inside the pin of the BNC.

I did at one point have a pair (same Furutech connectors) with Furutech FX Alpha Ag but didn't like them. Sounded a bit grainy in comparison. From memory I think this is a stranded and not a solid core. No where near as thick as the Oyaide one above.

If you're ok with a soldering iron, trying making a pair of Oyaide FTVS-510 cables. It's not that hard to do... only the pin needs soldering.

I would still suggest you to try ferrites in your oyaide silver cable. Each ferrite gives blacker background. After around 7th ferrite sound starts degrading, starts to lose power and becomes kind of too sterile.

 

[rkt31]

Rob Watts take on the Wave BNC's

And I certainly do not say you have to use Wave cables or indeed have to use ferrites - this is the surface finish on the icing of the cake after all. I post what is technically accurate, and my subjective observations are based upon honest, serious and careful listening tests. This approach has upset people within the industry; but I will only post what I see as being accurate at that moment in time (as my knowledge is (hopefully!) expanding). So I recommend Wave cables, as they work subjectively, and there is solid technical reasons why they work. I have in the past said that audiophile USB cables either sound the same as certified type 2 cables, or they degrade sound quality by adding more RF noise - they are designed unwittingly as RF noise generators. So too with audiophile BNC cables - the exception being Wave. I have taken some considerable flak from audiophiles who always assume that some exotic expensive brand will outperform the standard certified generic cables - and they get very upset when I humbly point out that they are "enjoying" a degradation. Look at the trouble I get into about SMPS against linears as another example.

To conclude: Wave cables work technically and subjectively. Only you can decide from trying them whether it's worth the cost, and represents value to you.

Happy listening, Rob

Matter is not like wave cabled don't work. It is like you can make your own wave cable at a fraction of cost. That's it. I myself use furutech bulk coax RCA cable (with RCA to bnc adaptor at ends. Adaptors have dual advantage. They put less pressure on bnc jack of tt2 as ferrited cable becomes heavy. Plus RCA coax cable has better resale value than bnc ) with ferrites at tt2 end. No wonder these cables are better than stock cable in every aspects.

 

[Toonartist]

I would still suggest you to try ferrites in your oyaide silver cable. Each ferrite gives blacker background. After around 7th ferrite sound starts degrading, starts to lose power and becomes kind of too sterile.

I have a few in the draw... I'll give it try and see how it goes!

 

[465176]

I'm having problems with a clicking noise randomly emitting from the TT2's chassis, both when turned on and when in standby. About four months ago, I contacted my dealer about the issue. They first sent me a new stock PSU. It did not fix the problem. Next I sent the TT2 itself in for repair. Six or so weeks later, I received the unit back with an invoice saying that the board had been replaced. I optimistically plugged it in but found the clicking still occurring.

Back to the dealer it went. This time the tech support guy at the dealer had it sit on his desk for a week to see if the clicking happened for him. He told me he heard nothing and returned the unit back to me saying that there must be something else in my circuit causing issues.

I had previously had the TT2 plugged into an APC UPS and changed it for a Panamax PM8-AV surge protector to help with any power related problems. I didn't hear any clicking for almost week and thought the problem was resolved, then I heard the dreaded noise again, three times in a few hours. Next, I unplugged the two APC UPS's I had plugged into my PC and digital piano, in case they are somehow causing dirty power in my circuit. The clicking happened again. What should I do next?

Sounds either like the issue has returned and it'll unfortunately need another repair/PCB replacement, OR that it doesn't like whatever UPS you are using for some unfathomable reason. Have you tried it plugged directly into the mains without any UPS or surge protectors? These random issues are always harder to track down. Taking a clear video of the clicking when it happens would be good too, and might aid Chord in narrowing down your particular issue.

I've just received my third TT2 from Nintronics (who have been amazing!) after cosmetic QC issues with the first, and cosmetic and electrical issues with the second. Hoping this is third time lucky! At least the volume ball seems free of scratch marks this time! Hope you get your issues resolved to your satisfaction.

 

[zen87192]

Thanks to all who have chimed in to post about cable option connections. Has anyone tried using a portable battery powered ‘brick’ to supply the power to their MScaler? I saw this mentioned on another forum and the outcome was pretty positive as MScaler is isolated and therefore, perhaps, these cables may not be required?

 

[Toonartist]

Thanks to all who have chimed in to post about cable option connections. Has anyone tried using a portable battery powered ‘brick’ to supply the power to their MScaler? I saw this mentioned on another forum and the outcome was pretty positive as MScaler is isolated and therefore, perhaps, these cables may not be required?

Not a battery brick but I have used a power bank.

I tried a few when I had the MScaler and found the Krisdonia 50k mAh ones to be really good (at 12v). Last quite a while and quick to recharge. It worked well and certainly improved the sound... I guess that was due to removing the MScaler from the mains and stopping the noise it generates from flowing towards the DAC.

 

[alxw0w]

Thanks to all who have chimed in to post about cable option connections. Has anyone tried using a portable battery powered ‘brick’ to supply the power to their MScaler? I saw this mentioned on another forum and the outcome was pretty positive as MScaler is isolated and therefore, perhaps, these cables may not be required?

Battery helped a bit, but it was nowhere close to cables with properly chosen ferrites.

 

[Triode User]

Not true. Nick uses oyaide bnc cable and use ferrite throughout the length with some gaps in between ferrites for flexibility. So in a way it is limited by cable. Though oyaide uses pcocc A copper which is better than most other cables but it is bettered by few other cables like furutech alpha occ copper or silver. I use furutech coax bulk cable with 7 ferrite at dac end. I found after 7 number of ferrites sound degraded. You don't need ferrites throughout the length. People have money and nobody can stop them buying wave cables but you can have better choice at less rates. I mean buy oyaide bnc and try putting 7 or 8 ferrite per cable at dac end. The theory of Nick that you need ferrites throughout the length with certain gap has no backing. Gaps were required for flexibility and keeping ferrite on one side would have exposed the base cable below. So the design is not due to technical consideration but because of logistics.

With many months of experimenting with all sorts of cables and ferrites my thoughts may help anyone wishing to attempt their own DIY cable. If anyone is making DIY cables for their own use I am always happy to try to help them if they contact me but probably falling short of giving out the type of ferrites I use, it took too long to find them! (None of the guesses for the ferrite types mentioned in posts are the ones I use but I admit I did try those ones before rejecting them.)

To my ears the choice of the core cable used with the ferrites definitely makes a difference to the sound. Indeed by way of example two of the cables I make have identical ferrites and only differ in the core cable and connectors. So I would say as a DIY exercise it is worth trying different cable and ferrite combinations to get the combination that works best.

For information the Oyaide has a 5n solid silver centre conductor and is not copper. Regarding the number of ferrites I say that 7 is not sufficient for the best sound quality. I could definitely hear differences up to 16 per cable and but with 17+ whilst there were still gains it was less significant and rather a matter of diminishing returns. If the sound is degrading with more than 7 then I suspect there is something wrong with either the ferrite or the cable choice, or both. The spacing of the ferrites affects the target frequency of the ferrite / cable combination and this can be calculated. There is an argument for having a variety of different spacings on the same cable to spread the effective frequency. I preferred identical spacings but others might prefer the sound with a range of spacings.

Hope this helps for DIY.

 

[alxw0w]

(None of the guesses for the ferrite types mentioned in posts are the ones I use but I admit I did try those ones before rejecting them.)

I can somehow confirm that.
After trying some of the mentioned ferrites I can assure you that they are not the same what Nick is using.
If somebody is interested I can sell my DIY ferrited cables (cost of materials + shipping).
My cables help a lot, but still are nowhere close to Waves.

 

[zen87192]

OK… How about this iFi Power Elite Power Supply Adapter. Does anyone think it may make a difference compared to the standard one supplied regarding mains noise and maybe also, technically related, to the BNC Noise?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08THSX...&colid=24PFG2R6A5UX&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

 

[OneEyedHito]

OK… How about this iFi Power Elite Power Supply Adapter. Does anyone think it may make a difference compared to the standard one supplied regarding mains noise and maybe also, technically related, to the BNC Noise?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08THSX...&colid=24PFG2R6A5UX&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

You need the 15V model not the 12V and the ifi Elite 15V is only 3.5A RMS, whereas the Chord supplied and TT2 spec calls for 4A RMS. I ordered the 15V ifi model and will try it next week when my TT2 arrives but just be aware of the points I made.

 

[zen87192]

You need the 15V model not the 12V and the ifi Elite 15V is only 3.5A RMS, whereas the Chord supplied and TT2 spec calls for 4A RMS. I ordered the 15V ifi model and will try it next week when my TT2 arrives but just be aware of the points I made.

Does that apply to the MScaler as well? Thanks.

 

[zen87192]

Just checked. And it’s the same at 15v 4A.

 

[OneEyedHito]

Does that apply to the MScaler as well? Thanks.

Chord lists the Mscaler as the same specs of 15V/4A on their site.