[swtnate]

Ahah! I knew there was a catch somewhere! Liquid resin printers seem about the cost/trouble I was thinking originally and probably not going to happen for me.

I am very tempted to give PETG a try though, given the relatively low cost. After a bit of sanding and lack 3 the results may well be better than my poor attempts using the traditional methods. It also opens up a lot more options finish wise...

I appreciate that resin printers probably give you that perfect look right out the printer, but a bit of sanding post-print doesn't sound like the end of the world. Has anyone tried this with customs?

Its not just a bit of sanding. Its a considerable amount. And then you have to contend with PET compatibility with UV lacquers/ shellacs. Plus, you don’t know how the filament material will interact with your ear lining. additionally, without a high enough definition in the print, you will not get the tube channels to print and the sound bores will not be as consistent. Im not saying it cant be done. But, you’ll be working in your own void. If filament printing was a viable option, there would be filaments offered by the big names in our industry. Detax, Pro3dure, Dreve, egger, etc all solely offer liquid resins.

 

[Aldo40]

@stegeoc
The resin printer does not exclude sanding of course it is always necessary to sand the hull to the dremel before putting the lake3.
It’s not about saving money. It’s just that it’s much more accurate and you can make other precision part, example you broke a button a gear and other part you specify printed identically without sanding. Think of e I could do with this printer outside the
IEM
If you pass one or two tubes in the nozzle, hulls can be made with a wire.
I have a friend who has a wired one thought I already tried, I didn’t say it was impossible, just when you compare a liquid resin shell and a wired one, the choice and quickly, Now the choice of the resin printer for some of us is that we release a lot of shell.
If you are not professional and you will reserve the wired printer for larger, coarser objects from time to time that do not require too much precision and detail, you can make this choice.

 

[stegeoc]

I see, I'll scrap that idea then. I've seen a 2k resin printer for a reasonable price, is that high enough resolution?

But what about the resin you use in it? Does that have to be some expensive medical resin or is the standard stuff OK once lacked? I guess it would be pretty hard to get but I assume the same rules apply as to the traditional methods?

 

[swtnate]

I see, I'll scrap that idea then. I've seen a 2k resin printer for a reasonable price, is that high enough resolution?

But what about the resin you use in it? Does that have to be some expensive medical resin or is the standard stuff OK once lacked? I guess it would be pretty hard to get but I assume the same rules apply as to the traditional methods?

I would look at the elegoo Mars 3 4k MSLA printer. On the low side, the anycubic Photon Mono 4k would be doable as well. I didnt enjoy one minute of my ownership of the anycubic Photon S. The Z axis was always funky, and I had COUNTLESS print failures. Since getting the elegoo Saturn, Ive had zero print failures. I also ise the Lychee slicer on a mac. That slicer program is amazing. Way better than any other Ive ever used. the auto orientation and auto support detection is first class.

 

[Aldo40]

I see, I'll scrap that idea then. I've seen a 2k resin printer for a reasonable price, is that high enough resolution?

But what about the resin you use in it? Does that have to be some expensive medical resin or is the standard stuff OK once lacked? I guess it would be pretty hard to get but I assume the same rules apply as to the traditional methods?

I was doing with the 2K elegoo before and it was accurate enough, it is a RGB dale and not monochrome as on the PRO 2 or 4K, the advantage of monochrom screens and that it is faster and manages much better clear resins that are more difficult to print.

I have 3 resin printers including an ASIGA freeform pro 2, and the one I use 95% is the Mars 3 lol
I also use Lychee slicer and the chitubox PRO version which is also nice .
you can use resins like monocure3D, resione etc... but it is imperative to cover with lake3/ detax shellac..... for protection.

 

[stegeoc]

Thanks all, I've put a Mars 3 on my wishlist. Need to think up a couple more things that I urgently need to print to justify it though, and learn meshmixer in the meantime.

My current experiments have been hampered by not being able to get consistent fr measurements (especially in the bass). I'm sure I'll get there in the end but I think the problem is that the tubes (various bits of aquarium tubing) are not reflecting the sound properly and may be too soft. Will keep experimenting in my free time

 

[Aldo40]

I don’t think it’s because of the soft of the tubes, but it’s because of the leakage.

 

[discus123]

My 2nd build hybrid IEM, Low : TUSQ 10 mm dynamic driver / Low Mid : sonion 37ap015 / Mid High : sonion 2389 / High : knowles 31736

I'm trying to shift the V at 4.5K a bit to the right, about 5K. I've crossed with different values of cap. and damper but failed. The most painful is I've glued the tube to the shell. Are there any way that I've no need to break the shell for adjusting the tube length that I can move the V to 5K ?

I've planned to connect a tube to the shell body for controlling the air leaking from the dynamic driver. This is my 1st attempt for doing it and I'm not sure if it is workable or not.

At the back of the shell body I'll put different value of damper for controlling the air leaking from the dynamic driver.

 

[stegeoc]

I don’t think it’s because of the soft of the tubes, but it’s because of the leakage.

It may well be, but I've been focused on that and seem to be getting a seal. I use a ton of blue tack wherever possible and things really do seem sealed to the point that I can't hear the sweeps. It seems the microscopic differences in angle or depth make huge differences below 100hz. When there's no subbass at all it'll be a leak, but when I get some subbass it is still inconsistent.

Any tips for getting a good seal without resorting to glue? Maybe I should try some different blue tack? The stuff I have is really sticky and a pain to clean up anyway

 

[mattmatt]

My 2nd build hybrid IEM, Low : TUSQ 10 mm dynamic driver / Low Mid : sonion 37ap015 / Mid High : sonion 2389 / High : knowles 31736





I'm trying to shift the V at 4.5K a bit to the right, about 5K. I've crossed with different values of cap. and damper but failed. The most painful is I've glued the tube to the shell. Are there any way that I've no need to break the shell for adjusting the tube length that I can move the V to 5K ?



I've planned to connect a tube to the shell body for controlling the air leaking from the dynamic driver. This is my 1st attempt for doing it and I'm not sure if it is workable or not.




At the back of the shell body I'll put different value of damper for controlling the air leaking from the dynamic driver.

It's workable. I've done this once. Is your shell printed or poured? Looking good my, man!

 

[Aldo40]

.
Any tips for getting a good seal without resorting to glue? Maybe I should try some different blue tack? The stuff I have is really sticky and a pain to clean up anyway

You should see your curves and the dynamic driver used.

 

[Aldo40]

.

 

[mattmatt]

Any ideas with matte coating? Do you guys think they normal lacquer with additives?

 

[Aldo40]

I’m also interested to know, or it’s just the lake3 that’s sanded

 

[piotrus-g]

Any ideas with matte coating? Do you guys think they normal lacquer with additives?

There's a matte lacquer from Dreve available