[swtnate]

I don't think how far or near they are the light source is the problem. Proper timing is the solution. I cure mine half an inch from my bulb.

Light intensity for sure plays a role. Distance from the source can lessen the intensity in a very uncontrollable way. A 40W LED is not going to penetrate like a 80-100W LED. That being said, you are spot on about timing. I find on clears and whites, I have to dial back light intensity to 75-80% and then hit it with 100% for the final 15 seconds.

 

[mattmatt]

Light intensity for sure plays a role. Distance from the source can lessen the intensity in a very uncontrollable way. A 40W LED is not going to penetrate like a 80-100W LED. That being said, you are spot on about timing. I find on clears and whites, I have to dial back light intensity to 75-80% and then hit it with 100% for the final 15 seconds.

I cure my lacquer on every color the same length But that is given that I have my own curing stations that I build myself and been using for years. Lacquer curing is all the same for me unlike shells.

 

[swtnate]

I cure my lacquer on every color the same length But that is given that I have my own curing stations that I build myself and been using for years. Lacquer curing is all the same for me unlike shells.

Using the Pro3dure curing unit changed my life.

 

[Xymordos]

That's a really tidy desk

 

[swtnate]

That's a really tidy desk

What is?

 

[Benyboy]

After 3 months of learning reading and gathering information on diy iems I finally made a pair from scratch, I went with a hybrid build for my first one and I'm happy with the results. I did pause for a 2 weeks and today I completed a somewhat bass heavy set with good stage and clean highs. I did build some with preassembled ba drivers which was ok but I wanted more power in the lows.

The frequency doesn't affect the left and right to much, I'll use them for a week and if the difference is to audible I could rebuild them.

 

[tonybuild]

Actually,i just rebuilt the one that got yellow, and look much better and fits great.

 

[zie5522]

Hello all, may i ask for some suggestions?

Currently, me and my friend are working on retuning bgvp dm8. It has 38d1x, 2354, raf-32873, twfk, and swfk.

This is the target i want to achieve.

But when my friend try to mimic those graph he said that its too muddy and bloaty.

Currently, he tuned it to be like this. Because it sounds cleaner this way.

The question is, how we could add more midbass that dont make the low end become a muddy and bloaty mess? Add venting on the bass?

TIA

 

[swtnate]

Hello all, may i ask for some suggestions?

Currently, me and my friend are working on retuning bgvp dm8. It has 38d1x, 2354, raf-32873, twfk, and swfk.

This is the target i want to achieve.

But when my friend try to mimic those graph he said that its too muddy and bloaty.

Currently, he tuned it to be like this. Because it sounds cleaner this way.


The question is, how we could add more midbass that dont make the low end become a muddy and bloaty mess? Add venting on the bass?

TIA

Literally too many variables and not enough information to give you anything specific. We would need tube lengths, diameters, dampers, passive components, and so much more. My first bit of advice would be to keep it as is and remove all passive components and retest. Second start your mid adjustments. Followed by your tweeters. Then lastly, your sub. After all that retest and tweak based on the multiple test done along the way.

 

[zie5522]

Literally too many variables and not enough information to give you anything specific. We would need tube lengths, diameters, dampers, passive components, and so much more. My first bit of advice would be to keep it as is and remove all passive components and retest. Second start your mid adjustments. Followed by your tweeters. Then lastly, your sub. After all that retest and tweak based on the multiple test done along the way.

Sorry for not giving enough information. Will ask my friend for the details. But do you think playing with vent will work?

 

[swtnate]

Sorry for not giving enough information. Will ask my friend for the details. But do you think playing with vent will work?

Venting out of the shell will cause a considerable loss of sub frequency when using BAs. In practice, Ive never had much success. Maybe others have? I know with DD’s and Planars it can work wonders.

 

[xrecode]

Hello all, may i ask for some suggestions?

Currently, me and my friend are working on retuning bgvp dm8. It has 38d1x, 2354, raf-32873, twfk, and swfk.

This is the target i want to achieve.

But when my friend try to mimic those graph he said that its too muddy and bloaty.

Currently, he tuned it to be like this. Because it sounds cleaner this way.


The question is, how we could add more midbass that dont make the low end become a muddy and bloaty mess? Add venting on the bass?

TIA

without touching the vent, you can adjust resistor and decrease caps values on woofer LPF (and adjust damper if needed). then try hi pass whichever driver handling the mid (can also try flip polarity on woofer to get the slope you want). if you want less subbass, can try add resistor value while decreasing caps on woofer, or add a leak tube/vent with damper
as for the rest of uppermids to hi freq, the practical way is to use only the raf and swfk, without using the 2354 and twfk (as you basically want blessing 2 - esque tuning, it doesn't need 2354 nor twfk driver to be there to mess up the tuning) - you can still use 2354 if u hi pass it and run raf fullrange with strong damper as a midrange, but that will complicate the tuning (but can be done if you want it). twfk, maybe also can but will complicate your tuning even more.

P.S: muddy or not is subjective and a vague terms. my personal suggestion is, you should try to ask your friend to make one like so first and then you try it yourself, so that you can decide if it fits you or not.

the one currently on the graph shown is far from what you requested it to be (it definitely will sounds much clearer and/or edgier by the graph shown, but it's not what you requested right? it doesn't even mimic the graph that you sent to him)

 

[zie5522]

without touching the vent, you can adjust resistor and decrease caps values on woofer LPF (and adjust damper if needed). then try hi pass whichever driver handling the mid (can also try flip polarity on woofer to get the slope you want). if you want less subbass, can try add resistor value while decreasing caps on woofer, or add a leak tube/vent with damper
as for the rest of uppermids to hi freq, the practical way is to use only the raf and swfk, without using the 2354 and twfk (as you basically want blessing 2 - esque tuning, it doesn't need 2354 nor twfk driver to be there to mess up the tuning) - you can still use 2354 if u hi pass it and run raf fullrange with strong damper as a midrange, but that will complicate the tuning (but can be done if you want it). twfk, maybe also can but will complicate your tuning even more.

P.S: muddy or not is subjective and a vague terms. my personal suggestion is, you should try to ask your friend to make one like so first and then you try it yourself, so that you can decide if it fits you or not.

the one currently on the graph shown is far from what you requested it to be (it definitely will sounds much clearer and/or edgier by the graph shown, but it's not what you requested right? it doesn't even mimic the graph that you sent to him)

Thanks for the input. If im not mistaken, he currently use twfk as full range, swfk as high. And still trying different combination with the 2354 and raf as mid.

Yeah i guess i need to try it first then giving my feedback.

 

[AsciiJC]

Heya all, I wanted to ask something about resin and services. I am trying to find one that can provide a resin for nozzles that will be skin safe and durable. I have made a model already for myself to prototype with, but I cant really find the right one who will do just shells. I dont really have the space to do it myself, but any help would be appreciated!

 

[shade105]

Questions regarding designing crossover circuit for multi BA iem:

1. Regarding RC low pass filter, is the direction of the capacitor flow from BA out to BA in? All RC filter diagrams I've seen had no indication on which side of the capacitor is the (+) or (-), so I'd like a confirmation.

2. Is it possible/practical for all BA drivers to share one capacitor? I've seen the tuning circuit diagram of a 2 BA iem build on Youtube, and the guy only used one 10 uF capacitor shared between both BAs, so I wonder if that is okay in order to save space within the shell.