Yup, that was the inspiration, notice drivers firing into a chamber directly (no tubing) with single tubing on the other side, as described above:
i kinda got into the design of yours
kinda cool and out of the box thinking
i got my friend simulate your design on virtual environment
well what is the length of the tube, the standard 13 tube
I can help you refine it, without changing anything
it is the first attempt i have seen(going in series)
and i think, well it is way to hard to drive though, but fixes a lot of thing
1. peaky treble fix(Cavity and Series + damper).
2. Bass control(This will be too tight, super sharp bass on timing)
3. Overall speed and timing of hit
4. Distortion fix
5. Impedance graph will remain structurally same as single driver
but issues are from what he is telling me
1. due to high resistance.
88ohm DC resistance
132ohm 500 Hz nominal impedance
198ohm on 1kHz
250ohm on 3kHz
the issue is 250ohm at 3kHz. This thing may also create the feeling of of space, but extreme vocally sound may not get texture of crispiness and rasp. 3kHz have vocal harmonic details.
you may need to fix this area
but from what i see, that your tubing is small, it may not be an issue, but still asking the length of tubing.
and the space is correct for 4mm
but from your design i can see a verysmall fault
the 4mm is from tip of body rather than spout of BA. plus seal the surrounding body near the sprout so that it becomes flat surface with earlier spout area becoming holes. then make a space of 4mm(3.9mm but doesnt matter).
This will fix some internal hazzyness.
and shift the 660ohm damper in between of the tube.
because the cavity is already reducing the pneumatic pressure from BA, which then flows in tube, the 660ohm damper in end becomes too restrictive, which may kill some higher harmonic detail. moving it inside, may get some effect of pneumatic pressure penetration on damper, which make the air flow better and some extreme HF can raise.
experiment with zobel , because BA skyrocket in impedance at HF production and you series it, so the resistance would be very high, and you may wanna fix that
all my tips, may get the naunces of HF right
If you fix the HF extension, this can be a killer setup, because you have already achieved perfect mids and bass.
just slightly
plus
Since the two driver's electrical impedances and back EMFs are identical, the back EMF of one driver is just right to cancel the back EMF from the other and vice versa. This keeps the voltage over each of the drivers to exactly half the total driving voltage. This would not have been the case with a series resistor or if you were to put the hand on one of the drivers to keep the cone at standstill.
But I think that this way of thinking is more complicated than the simple voltage divider with two identical impedances.
So, the bottom line is; connecting identical drivers in series is OK, it does not affect Qts.
Edit: you can also see it from the equation for Qes:
Qes=2*pi*fs*Mms/Res, Res=(Bl)^2/Re
If you add a driver in series and see the two drivers as one, B and fs would stay the same, Mms would double, l would double, and Re would double. Net effect: Qes stays the same.
so, the way you placed your driver, the vents outward is also helping in weakening of stray magnetic field too
on parallel, this may not have happened
the reason is, parallel increases the Qes, which is important fundamentally, as this Q damping is second most important after Qms and we can control it.
as said earlier Qes remain same, voltage amount gets half leads to 1/4th of distortion on two driver setup. so on 4driver that is 1/16th of one RAB
this is a great feat to be proud of. plus Impedance remain same
but the amp you need now has to be poweful or you have to design a impedance equalisation and zobel circuit on parallel with longer horn. get that thing to work on 88ohms on all freq
it can make the iem sound like a TOTL headphone, if done right
that is 4driver zero cross
so to conclude
your project has a lot of potential