Home-Made IEMs

  1. Spinnerauto
    [​IMG]

    Anyone know where to buy the switch like this ? Thank You
     
  2. Xymordos
    I think that's the Sonion SW96
     
  3. Spinnerauto
    Do you know where to order it
     
  4. Xymordos
    From a Sonion distributor, but in Hong Kong the min. quantity is 100pcs...
     
  5. MuZo2
    Shilohsjustice likes this.
  6. SVTong
    My GV's just arrived, too. I've got the same question - what is the recommended damper setup for them?
     
  7. Im1fan2nv
    The feedback I received here was to use green and red dampers. However, I used white and gray and I have a very similar response curve to the shure SE535's. I can't listen to them because they are for my mother-in-law so I just have the curves to go by. She said they sound better than the SE535s. I tried adding an extra HODVTEC spliced with the GV HODVTEC tube, hoping for more on the low end but it did not seem to help with the GV so I removed it. I'm still very new with this so take it for what it's worth and I welcome any feedback.
     
  8. tomekk
    I would like to introduce you my new test pigs :pig:. They are made of impression material.

    IMG_1606.jpg IMG_1607.jpg
     
  9. Shilohsjustice

    I did something very similar, I've been using Luke's veritas mic kit and I made plugs for single, dual, triple, and quads with impression silicone just like yours. It works well and is a controllable variable which makes measuring very consistent. Great job!!! That's the kind of thinking that supports the DIY thread, there are so many people who view this thread to learn how to make IEM's there are a hand full of contributors that keep this thread pushing the boundaries. Thanks for the post, maybe you could post how you made it with the measuring rig so others can benefit from it.
     
    Im1fan2nv likes this.
  10. ForceMajeure
    That's just great! Very clever.
    Great way to have a "secured and sealed" listen for testing, also easy to add an eartip to it. Can even plug holes with blue tack that are not in use or seal smaller ID tube.
    Love it.
     
  11. ostewart
  12. tomekk
    It's a very good idea! I have a lot free time now.

    Today I finished only one earpiece, but I couldn't wait to share this project with you. Dualbore, 3-Way fully configurable crossover. Classic: CI (two slots: cap + res) + TWFK (two slots for caps).
    There was not enough space inside, because of the pins from the DIP socket, but somehow I managed to put everything in a shell.

    IMG_16251.jpg
     
    ostewart and HiFiChris like this.
  13. ForceMajeure
    Here are my impressions so far between the Dreve Fotoplast S-IO and Egger LP/H

    Smell: Dreve material has a more perfumed smell. Egger has an "earthy" smell that is stronger.

    Viscosity: Dreve is slightly thinner and once heated under the UV light it get's slightly more liquid. So if you plan to do retouches that need "3D volume" it's more difficult depending on the angle because it will start to run thinner as it heats. Potentially "drip/leak" before it cures. Egger is thicker and holds its shape better under heat.

    Curing time: Dreve needs more energy than Egger thus slightly longer curing time. If you plan on curing with a small UV lamp you have to take it into consideration. Of course if you have a professional curing station it might not be that different because of its power. For a transparent shell with good thickness, plan to add another 30-40sec to a min to get the same result. Egger cures faster.

    Tacky layer: Because of the difference between curing times it might give you the impressions that Dreve leaves more of the tacky layer when in fact it's part of the resin that might not have cured fully. But overall, I still think Dreve leaves a slightly tackier layer and wiping it with alcohol might result in a hazier surface. But a very fast/short buff brings the shine back. On the Egger stuff, usually after the correct curing time, wiping it with alcohol works without leaving an hazy layer. Of course the glycerin bath is still recommended for both. this is more a talk for faceplates and retouch.

    Transparency: Both resins give exceptional results in term of transparency. No yellow hue even when overcured. Maybe just maybe the Dreve might look even more transparent/glass like but it's hard to judge because one might have cured with slightly more thicker wall (I am talking microns here) thus affecting the light refraction.

    Shelf time: I had Egger resin for more than a year stored in room temperature and was still curing as good as when it was fresh. I didn't have the Dreve long enough to judge but the expiration date on the bottle gives me at least 2 years.

    Overall both resins are good. I might recommend the Egger more for DIYers because of it's shorter curing times and thickness. But you can't go wrong going with both.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017 at 7:34 AM
    bartzky and discus123 like this.
  14. ForceMajeure
    Also regarding the the difference between both resins I forgot...

    Mixing colors: When mixing dyes because of the relative thinness of the Dreve fotoplast in comparison to the Egger, it creates more air bubbles that will hold on longer in the Dreve mix. So it takes longer for them to disappear. This is a thing to consider because without a pressure/vaccum pot you can't speed up the bubble dissipation process. I don't recommend using a heat source like a fire torch on resin to "bring out" the bubbles to the surface prior pouring for cure.
    I always recommend mixing slowly with longer movements for a longer time, that will help decreasing the chances for bubbles.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    discus123 and Shilohsjustice like this.
  15. tomekk
    When I used fotoplast s hart I had problems dissolving dye powder. I used a proxon with a brush. After a few minutes of spinning and setting aside for 24 hours, I got a perfectly absorbed colored powder. Very strange technique, but it worked. I didn't test with S / IO.
     

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