Home-Made IEMs
Feb 25, 2017 at 7:52 PM Post #6,076 of 16,072
What material are you using for internal stuff?  I'm struggling with this right now.  Fotoplast leaves that damn inhibition layer that runs, and the cyno I'm using leaves a film.  After electronics are in, you can't do glycerin to cure....  Other than getting a nitro setup...


I use Fotoplast, I bought a "scorpion" flash light a couple years ago. It is a 395-410nm uv flashlight used for finding scorpions. It works well for spot curing areas in the shell where you need additional material around tubing and drivers. I haven't had issues with it running in the shell when I spot cute it.

I use this when I'm doing spot cures and for the faceplates. It works awesome, just like a professional wand.

Here is the light I purchased right from my Amazon history.

 
Feb 25, 2017 at 8:03 PM Post #6,077 of 16,072
I was working on some sparkles tonight for a co-worker, single driver UM Pro 10 clone. These are why I was cooking up some krystaloid in the kitchen a couple days ago. Here's another tip for those buying the krystaloid from lightning enterprises. DON'T heat up in the microwave, buy a double boiler like the one in the pic I posted a few days ago, perfect investments every time without bubbles!!!!! I fill a pot with water so it's touching the bottom of the second pot and boil, it won't overheat your Krystaloid and all the bubbles work themselves out and I just stir it occasionally, I'll turn the heat down and let the krystaloid cool enough to pour over my molds.





This is what I mean about the double boiler, I think I paid $9 dollars for it and it works better than the 10second microwave method.

 
Feb 25, 2017 at 10:56 PM Post #6,078 of 16,072
I was working on some sparkles tonight for a co-worker, single driver UM Pro 10 clone. These are why I was cooking up some krystaloid in the kitchen a couple days ago. Here's another tip for those buying the krystaloid from lightning enterprises. DON'T heat up in the microwave, buy a double boiler like the one in the pic I posted a few days ago, perfect investments every time without bubbles!!!!! I fill a pot with water so it's touching the bottom of the second pot and boil, it won't overheat your Krystaloid and all the bubbles work themselves out and I just stir it occasionally, I'll turn the heat down and let the krystaloid cool enough to pour over my molds.





This is what I mean about the double boiler, I think I paid $9 dollars for it and it works better than the 10second microwave method.


Looks great! what driver/damper combination did you use?
 
Feb 26, 2017 at 6:22 AM Post #6,079 of 16,072
  FWIW, 
 
Tubing Size    Inside/Outside Diam
#12                   2.16/3.18 mm
#13 standard    1.93/2.95 mm        <—-Hearing aid standard
#13 medium     1.93/3.10 mm
#13 thick          1.93/3.30 mm
#14                   1.68/2.95 mm
#15                   1.50/2.95 mm
Thin tube          0.90/1.40 mm

The Tubing sizes are always useful to have.
This was already posted here, but the following chart add the #9,#16 tube sizes 

 
Feb 26, 2017 at 5:56 PM Post #6,081 of 16,072
earphonia.com-W900-FR-Curve.jpg



Is it SWFK in AAW W900?
 
Feb 27, 2017 at 12:34 AM Post #6,085 of 16,072
I wonder what they used to measure the W900s to get that graph
 
Feb 27, 2017 at 4:49 AM Post #6,090 of 16,072
But the IEC711 doesn't measure to 40kHz right...? Even after dropping 30-40db. 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top