[bartzky]

IEC711 is only specified up to 10kHz. So the coupler might measure beyond that but will not be accurate.
Furthermore you shouldn't care to much about what's going on from 10 - 20 kHz, not to mention 20 - 40 kHz.

 

[SVTong]

So after reading through 400+ pages over the last month, I got all of my supplies together and tried to make some shells last night.  I didn't successfully make any usable ones, but I learned a lot and I have enough gelatin left to try again tonight.  My one major question is how do I get the faceplate rim to cure thicker and have the canal cure less?  My canals came out completely solid every time, and the rim was paper thin.  Should I trim back my UV blocker to exact shape of the faceplate and put that side facing the LEDs?  I'm using clear gel nail polish and gelatin in a small nail curing "toaster oven" as my wife calls it.
 
Also, after my second attempt, my gelatin completely melted - is this normal?  I'm assuming it's because of the proximity to the LEDs.

 

[MuZo2]

What curing station are you using and how do you place the mold inside it ? Also seems your curing station is emitting lot of heat.

 

[SVTong]

It's a little nail curing station called a SensatioNail.  I made my molds in little prescription measuring cups.  The cups do not block UV, so I leave the molds in them and put the whole cup into the curing station opening.  It's a pretty tight fit though, so the cup actually rests on the LEDs and touches the reflector on top as well.
 
Edit: Found it:
http://www.sensationail.com/p/lamps/led-lamp/
 
Although the version I have is not USB, and the timers are 30 seconds and one minute.

 

[jbr1971]

  It's a little nail curing station called a SensatioNail.  I made my molds in little prescription measuring cups.  The cups do not block UV, so I leave the molds in them and put the whole cup into the curing station opening.  It's a pretty tight fit though, so the cup actually rests on the LEDs and touches the reflector on top as well.
 
Edit: Found it:
http://www.sensationail.com/p/lamps/led-lamp/
 
Although the version I have is not USB, and the timers are 30 seconds and one minute.

 
Try taking the molds out of the cups and keep at least an inch or two away from the lights. I have found that when I am doing the final cure in glycerin in small glasses the glass gets really warm (almost hot). That will hopefully take care of the melting gelatin.
 
If I am picturing the size of the unit properly from their website, it does not look very deep.
 
With the solid canals, the only idea that comes to mind is to place the mold with the canal side turned outwards. Hopefully that will negate some of the uv hitting the canals.
 
I had issues with thin walls at the top of mine and had to do the following:
 
- cure as usual but for 10-12 seconds less
- removed the piece I had on top blocking uv from getting to the top opening
- cure for 10-12 seconds
 
This led to better wall thickness at the top, but a very thin, flexible cured layer on the top of the mold. I then cut that layer out to be able to pour out the left over Fotoplast.
 
Hope this helps.

 

[MuZo2]

It has led only on top?  try placing the leds on side so flip the curing unit on its side and rotate it after few seconds 2-4 times.

 

[SVTong]

Thanks guys - I'll give both methods a try tonight.
 
The cups I'm using are plastic so I didn't think that they would trap a lot of heat, but I'll pull the molds out and try that too.

 

[UNOE]

When you use a damper on a woofer.  I understand that it changes the frequency that is delivered.  But does it also lesson the overall volume output of the woofer?  Or is it only changing the range?

 

[MuZo2]

When you use a damper on a woofer.  I understand that it changes the frequency that is delivered.  But does it also lesson the overall volume output of the woofer?  Or is it only changing the range?

 

[UNOE]

When you use a damper on a woofer.  I understand that it changes the frequency that is delivered.  But does it also lesson the overall volume output of the woofer?  Or is it only changing the range?

Based on that why doesn't everyone use yellow damper on all woofers

 

[Squirg]

Hey Guys.  Any idea what's going on here?  This is a Sonion 3800 with 15ohm in series with red damper and Sonion 2389 with 4.7uf in series with white damper.  My only guess is that in the green line, the red filter is damaged and not doing anything...but would it cause THAT much difference?
 
It's driving me bananas!  HELP!

 

[ForceMajeure]

 
Hey Guys.  Any idea what's going on here?  This is a Sonion 3800 with 15ohm in series with red damper and Sonion 2389 with 4.7uf in series with white damper.  My only guess is that in the green line, the red filter is damaged and not doing anything...but would it cause THAT much difference?
 
It's driving me bananas!  HELP!

Those graphs are left and right of the same iem?

 

[ForceMajeure]

Looks like there are other combo drivers solutions from Sonion also. I thought there was only the 1723
 
But there are 2 others 
 
26­E25WT02/9 
http://www.sonion.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/26-E25WT02_9-3107331.pdf
 
23­E25WT01/9
http://www.sonion.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/23-E25WT01_9-3200850.pdf

 

[MrNick]

I hate to ask...Is anyone in this thread accepting money for these creations? Or willing to make customs out of universals for a price and a complete release of any liability as it may very well destroy the iems? I simply do not have the resources or the home to perform these really awesome techniques. It's a long shot but I'd thought I'd ask to see if anyone was willing/able. I subbed when I realized I wanted to make my IT03 custom and add a full range driver for thicker sound.

Super inspired by some of the superb work here.

 

[SVTong]

Take that inspiration and channel it to try making your own!  It cost me $50 to make my first pair (plus the donor Shures for the drivers), and you learn some new skills along the way.  Well worth it, IMO.