[Lightsword]

I herd gulf wax is good too. ?

I've been using Gulf Wax and I haven't had very good results. I've melted it both with a Sous Vide (Water Bath) system and also using the microwave. I've been able to melt it and get it to coat the impressions really well, but my problems have been related to the low melting point (approx 130-140 degrees fahrenheit; however, the melting point of both the gelatine and Krystalloid is higher. When I've poured the investment material, I've had significant issues with both causing the wax to melt and become unstable. I also tried coating the impressions in clear nail polish, which adhered really well, but again seemed to bubble and melt as well. Anyway, I'd love to know more about the dental wax as well. I'm seriously considering buying some to try as well. I hope this helps you decide as well.

 

[Squirg]

   
What makes it better than paraffin? Does it have a higher melting point?

It coats much more evenly and has a harder/shinier surface.  It's flexible and more durable so it doesn't crack and flake off.  Good stuff!

 

[Squirg]

.

 

[Squirg]

  I've been using Gulf Wax and I haven't had very good results. I've melted it both with a Sous Vide (Water Bath) system and also using the microwave. I've been able to melt it and get it to coat the impressions really well, but my problems have been related to the low melting point (approx 130-140 degrees fahrenheit; however, the melting point of both the gelatine and Krystalloid is higher. When I've poured the investment material, I've had significant issues with both causing the wax to melt and become unstable. I also tried coating the impressions in clear nail polish, which adhered really well, but again seemed to bubble and melt as well. Anyway, I'd love to know more about the dental wax as well. I'm seriously considering buying some to try as well. I hope this helps you decide as well.

As far as I know, the red dental wax is what most IEM companies use for their investments.  It has significantly improved my shell quality.  I would say this is a "must buy"!

 

[jbr1971]

I have been using clear ballistics gel for my molds, which has a melting point of 265-270 F, but paraffin does not stand a chance against that.
 
I have just been looking around and I think I might have a new idea...downhill ski wax.
 
From what I am seeing, different types of ski wax have varying melting points, and there appear to be a couple that are above 270F.
 
I need to look into it further.

 

[Squirg]

  I have been using clear ballistics gel for my molds, which has a melting point of 265-270 F, but paraffin does not stand a chance against that.
 
I have just been looking around and I think I might have a new idea...downhill ski wax.
 
From what I am seeing, different types of ski wax have varying melting points, and there appear to be a couple that are above 270F.
 
I need to look into it further.

Killer idea!!!  I gave up on Clear Ballistics because I could only get a bubble free investment after sticking the whole thing in the oven for a few hours.  So, wax was a no-go.  Which is a shame because it's awesome stuff -- super strong and way more transparent than Krystaloid.  Still yet to try it in a pressure pot though.  That may do the trick, I just don't have access to one.  I never thought about ski wax though.  If you try it, let me know how it goes!

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Congrats ForceMajeure for winning the Noble Sage Giveaway!! That's pretty awesome!! I heard an interview with John (Wizard) who talked about the Sage, they are revamped Savant's - they had knowles add a tip to the ED-30761 creating there own proprietary driver making it easier to connect tubing reducing the technical skill required to assemble, it also gives it a small improvement on the bass response.

 

[drumkendrum]

Is there a page on this where it talks about a DIY faceplate? I'd love to see everyone's process and procedure how they go about do them.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

:atsmile: Is there a page on this where it talks about a DIY faceplate? I'd love to see everyone's process and procedure how they go about do them.

I did a how-to a while ago with pics and all, I don't know what page but it's there.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Congrats ForceMajeure for winning the Noble Sage Giveaway!! That's pretty awesome!! I heard an interview with John (Wizard) who talked about the Sage, they are revamped Savant's - they had knowles add a tip to the ED-30761 creating there own proprietary driver making it easier to connect tubing reducing the technical skill required to assemble, it also gives it a small improvement on the bass response.

 
Yes, I saw that video also.
 
Thanks. so nice to win something out of the blue

 

[JorgePantalones]

I did a how-to a while ago with pics and all, I don't know what page but it's there.

I had it in my notes, it's post #4745 : http://www.head-fi.org/t/430688/home-made-iems/4740#post_12595679
 
I used a slightly modified version on my maiden pair a couple weeks ago (which I've been meaning to post) and it worked out well.
 
Cheers!
GEO

 

[Mython]

If any of you can spare the time, this head-fier needs a bit of advice:
 
www.head-fi.org/t/825711/shure-se535-diy-repair-please-help

 

[Lightsword]

  As far as I know, the red dental wax is what most IEM companies use for their investments.  It has significantly improved my shell quality.  I would say this is a "must buy"!

Thanks for your advice! I've bought some and it should be arriving Wednesday! My impression creation is decent, and I'm getting a lot better at using the Krystalloid. I'm hoping that by the time my Nice Fit arrives from China, I'll be ready and able to make quality shells with them! I'll write up a post detailing what I have learned, what has worked, and what hasn't. Unfortunately the list of failures and problems will be much longer than the list of successes :/ On the plus side, I've learned a lot regarding successful shellmaking and I'm getting better with time. Thanks again for all the advice and the wisdom encompassed in this thread. I really appreciate it guys!

 

[Pete64]

Hi. Myself experience failure making shells. They cure very uneven. Some parts solid while some parts on the thicker walls of negtive dont cure at all, probably due to the silicone negative i went over to use. Before i used gelatin/kanten and larger forms/cups to mold the negatives in. Now i bought the small size cylinders, i probably should have bought the big ones. What size do you use?

 

[pc27618349]

Hi. Myself experience failure making shells. They cure very uneven. Some parts solid while some parts on the thicker walls of negtive dont cure at all, probably due to the silicone negative i went over to use. Before i used gelatin/kanten and larger forms/cups to mold the negatives in. Now i bought the small size cylinders, i probably should have bought the big ones. What size do you use?

 
Uneven curing is probably because of uneven light exposure - smaller cups will help a bit to some extent, but it will greatly help to rotate the molds as you cure it under UV light. What I do is rotate the mold 90 degrees 8 times over the course of the curing time period (if my cure time is 8 minutes, I rotate it 90 degrees every minute). This allows any uneven lighting to even itself out.