xymordos said:

  Did they sound better after the mod?

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If this was directed to my mods, then yes, that`s why I modded them, not just to look good. Sound configuration&quality dictated the design outcome

muzo2 said:

Nice work again, you are an expert now. Going professional ?

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A while ago I remember talking with someone here on the forum about how this becomes an obsession, I'm so hooked it's crazy. I've looked into some of the options to go further with it but for now it's a great hobby (obsession). I'm still pretty green when it comes to crossovers and circuits though I've found a few configs that work for me. If I could do this for a living I would for sure!!!

shilohsjustice said:

A while ago I remember talking with someone here on the forum about how this becomes an obsession, I'm so hooked it's crazy. I've looked into some of the options to go further with it but for now it's a great hobby (obsession). I'm still pretty green when it comes to crossovers and circuits though I've found a few configs that work for me. If I could do this for a living I would for sure!!!

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Shilohsjustice, you have inspired me to start building my own shells. Chris from Lighting Express just sent me transparent Fotoplast and hydrocolloid. Could you describe your process of building the faceplates? Also what cables do you use, they look great!

tjgonzo said:

Shilohsjustice, you have inspired me to start building my own shells. Chris from Lighting Express just sent me transparent Fotoplast and hydrocolloid. Could you describe your process of building the faceplates? Also what cables do you use, they look great!

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Hey thanks for the kind words, I'll post somethings tonight when I get home from work.

Hello all, I hope everyone has had a great Friday!!! Below I am going to outline how I do my Faceplates, note that this is my method and others go about it much differently. This so far works for me, for this example I'm using a shell with no drivers or connections in it!
 
You will need:
 
Sharpie
4in x 6in pc of picture frame glass (can be smaller, this is just what I had). 
The investment (Mold) of the ear you are making faceplate for. (Another reason why I clean up the edge around the top.)
 

 
Place the glass on top of the investment.
 


Trace the opening with the Sharpie (marker), I usually make it a small margin larger than the opening.
 


Now remove the glass and flip it over so the marker is on the bottom (you do not want the UV Material to actually touch the Sharpie, hence why I flip the glass.).
 


Pour a small amount of your UV Material in the center and use a toothpick or tool to spread it around in the lines.
 


I will usually do one layer then expose it to the UV light, do another layer for thickness, remember we will post process (sand, buff, and so on....).
 


I then place the plastic sleeve I use to make my mold over the faceplate, and fill with Glycerin to finish curing the UV material under my UV light. You can directly pour the Glycerin over it or submerge it, there is no wrong way just use care.
 

 
 I take a sharp blade and carefully remove it from the glass (took me a few faceplates to get good at removing from the glass.).
 


Remember that we drew the faceplate then flipped the glass over so when your done the flattest side of the faceplate will face up, side that has the rounded edges will be adhered to your shell. Keep this in mind in case you need to sand and buff the rounded side as your faceplate will be see through and you will likely see and ripples if there was any imperfections.
 
Im using the shell we made in my previous tutorial on shell making.
 
Coat the rim of the shell with UV Material or non-blooming super glue.
 

 
Place faceplate carefully on the shell and expose to UV light. (Be careful to not move it at all as you will see it through the faceplate, again took me a few tries to get good at placing the faceplate on the shell without blemish.)
 

 
 
Now all that is left is to sand the edges and buff. 
 


As you can see by doing it this way it is easy to control the thickness and makes a nicely uniform faceplate! If this was a finish pair for myself or someone I would have continued with the finishing process and further buffed until it was completely smooth without any blemishes, but because this was just a tutorial on faceplates I'll leave it at that.
 
If there is anything else I can help with please let me know. This forum is the reason I have dove head first into building IEM's and I fully understand all those who are venturing down the same path.

I have been using cables I purchased from Ebay, they are sold by In ear central out of Inverness Florida. I checked today and non are listed but I sent them a private message on eBay to see if they have any more.
 
Once I get the info I will post back.

forcemajeure said:

  You can use some spare cable from earpohnes /buds/ IEM that don't work anymore, slice them gently and use the wires from inside. Usually those wires are colored green red and brown/copper and have a thin protective layer of coating to prevent shorting. So after you cut them to the right lengths make sure when you solder them to melt the thin shielding coat.
 
Another option is to buy Estron wires (good quality but expensive) or precut wires from taobao/aliexpress.

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thanks. Looks to me if those wires are polymer coated ("enameled") braided / litz copper or silver wires with AWGs below 25 (probably diameter will have to be optimized for the transmitted frequency. I have a hard time to believe that they are only available in good quality from Estron. Any other source?

sounds interesting!

shilohsjustice said:

  I have been using cables I purchased from Ebay, they are sold by In ear central out of Inverness Florida. I checked today and non are listed but I sent them a private message on eBay to see if they have any more.
 
Once I get the info I will post back.

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sounds interesting!

cyph3r said:

sounds interesting!

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The cables In my opinion are good quality and I like them better than the stock westone or UE cables.



I've also used the Linum Earphone Cable MMCX Bax Dual Twist which I get from Warner Tech-care for $36.95 they are just so thin and tiny.

I haven't bought the eBay cables for a while but I have it saved in my eBay.

Does anyone have a good cable they recommend?

So I think I've found out what cables the eBay ones are, I think they are made by www.plastics1.com. I have emailed them to get pricing.



They can also do custom cables, we will see what they say on pricing. Could be a great route to go.

shilohsjustice said:

So I think I've found out what cables the eBay ones are, I think they are made by www.plastics1.com. I have emailed them to get pricing.



They can also do custom cables, we will see what they say on pricing. Could be a great route to go.

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Yea, I buy from them, for the motion iem cable they are sold in a pack of at least 10, you cant buy just one or a few.
I think Alclair Audio uses these guys as well and im sure many others.
Price is around $15-16 per cable in the pack of 10 then you buy the pack of 20 connectors and your looking around a price of $200 something + the shipping cost.

briancortez2112 said:

Yea, I buy from them, for the motion iem cable they are sold in a pack of at least 10, you cant buy just one or a few.
I think Alclair Audio uses these guys as well and im sure many others.
Price is around $15-16 per cable in the pack of 10 then you buy the pack of 20 connectors and your looking around a price of $200 something + the shipping cost.

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I'm assuming when you say the connectors you are referring to the female connectors for the shells, or do they charge separately for the connectors on the cable as an add on item.

shilohsjustice said:

I'm assuming when you say the connectors you are referring to the female connectors for the shells, or do they charge separately for the connectors on the cable as an add on item.

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Yes, the female connectors for the shells, it runs about $50 something for a pack of 20 2-pin, the mmcx might be a hair more $.