[Ithilstone]

Why dont you juat contact hifiman, mate?

Maybe you should asked "why didnt he contact Hifiman before he took those HPs completely apart?"
especially if he obviously do not know basics like how to use multi-meter to check if driver is faulty or fault is somewhere else like cable or socket etc

Honestly I was just about to help him out with a short answer but I saw that photo of naked drivers sitting on pads and gave up

 

[omniweltall]

Maybe you should asked "why didnt he contact Hifiman before he took those HPs completely apart?"
especially if he obviously do not know basics like how to use multi-meter to check if driver is faulty or fault is somewhere else like cable or socket etc

Honestly I was just about to help him out with a short answer but I saw that photo of naked drivers sitting on pads and gave up

Exactly.

 

[Jazzkammer]

Maybe you should asked "why didnt he contact Hifiman before he took those HPs completely apart?"
especially if he obviously do not know basics like how to use multi-meter to check if driver is faulty or fault is somewhere else like cable or socket etc

Honestly I was just about to help him out with a short answer but I saw that photo of naked drivers sitting on pads and gave up

Whoa, easy there pal. Why would you presuppose that I don't know how to use a multimeter to check if the driver is faulty? That is precisely what I did, and the driver has failed, as far as I can tell. I'm not getting any continuity across the driver. I checked the socket - good. Checked the cable - good.

However, I made the original post in good faith because I'm not a headphone repair specialist, and I rely on others in the hobby to make helpful suggestions without laying on the condescension. I don't presume to know everything about diagnosing headphone problems, hence my good faith post.

Also, driver pads - non-conductive. Pray tell what the issue is with setting the drivers on the pads?

Furthermore, to the notion that I should contact Hifiman before taking a look myself? Let's see, the headphones are:

A) out of warranty
B) easily assembled and disassembled, so I see no problem with taking them apart
C) Hifiman, known to have bad solder joints so that is easily fixable on my end, without dealing with a lengthy and inconvenient warranty process. It's worth a look

 

[Ithilstone]

Whoa, easy there pal. Why would you presuppose that I don't know how to use a multimeter to check if the driver is faulty? That is precisely what I did, and the driver has failed, as far as I can tell. I'm not getting any continuity across the driver. I checked the socket - good. Checked the cable - good.

However, I made the original post in good faith because I'm not a headphone repair specialist, and I rely on others in the hobby to make helpful suggestions without laying on the condescension. I don't presume to know everything about diagnosing headphone problems, hence my good faith post.

Also, driver pads - non-conductive. Pray tell what the issue is with setting the drivers on the pads?

Furthermore, to the notion that I should contact Hifiman before taking a look myself? Let's see, the headphones are:

A) out of warranty
B) easily assembled and disassembled, so I see no problem with taking them apart
C) Hifiman, known to have bad solder joints so that is easily fixable on my end, without dealing with a lengthy and inconvenient warranty process. It's worth a look

From the beginning "All the soldering connections look secure, but I was wondering if I can measure with mV, ohms, or mA to see exactly where the failure is on the driver."
Just re read your question and tell me if that is a question of somebody who knows how to use muli meter?
Regardless of your skills and just judging from your post:
you dont "look" at solder joints you measure them
if you have no "continuity across" the driver there is no way checking with Volts Amperes of Ohms to tell where the connection is broken that is basic knowledge
and to check for driver being faulty or to check the joints you do not need to take the drivers out (whats more when you are dealing with a driver with such a fragile membrane it would be a common sense to avoid removing it)
- it is like removing an engine from the car to change the oil.

Now when you supplied more information you may get some constructive answers but if you checked the driver with multimeter and it has died then there is no help. You will need to source new driver or ship it to Hifiman and pay for replacement, as far as i know they do not supply drivers so no chance to buy it from them. One option would be to find someone selling faulty out of warranty Ananda just make sure that it is one with opposite driver failure to yours ;]

 

[Toby Joe]

Okay, subject change time. I have the Monoprice THX AAA 788 and I’m thinking of changing things up a little bit as I’m thinking of getting the Monoprice THX AAA 887. However, I’m having issues with finding an acceptable DAC. I’ve “narrowed” my selection down to the Topping D70, Topping D90, and the Monoprice Liquid Platinum. I seem to be more interested in a AKM DAC than an ESS. The D70 has dual AK4497 and I really like the high end cap’s and electronics used in the D70. I don’t know what the insides look like in the D90 or the Liquid Platinum as they are not out yet, but I know they both have dual AK4499. I like how the D70 and D90 can both be Bluetooth as I might find this useful and I don’t know if the Liquid Platinum is Bluetooth or not?

All insights would be appreciated, so does anybody have any ideas, suggestions, or comments?

I realize this is an Ananda thread, but I thought it just might be time for something different here.

Thanks for your help………………………..

: )

 

[oqvist]

You are awhare the 887 is just a reversed 788

 

[Toby Joe]

You are awhare the 887 is just a reversed 788

Laughing, now that's clever. Thanks. : )

 

[CoFire]

Whoa, easy there pal. Why would you presuppose that I don't know how to use a multimeter to check if the driver is faulty? That is precisely what I did, and the driver has failed, as far as I can tell. I'm not getting any continuity across the driver. I checked the socket - good. Checked the cable - good.

However, I made the original post in good faith because I'm not a headphone repair specialist, and I rely on others in the hobby to make helpful suggestions without laying on the condescension. I don't presume to know everything about diagnosing headphone problems, hence my good faith post.

Also, driver pads - non-conductive. Pray tell what the issue is with setting the drivers on the pads?

Furthermore, to the notion that I should contact Hifiman before taking a look myself? Let's see, the headphones are:

A) out of warranty
B) easily assembled and disassembled, so I see no problem with taking them apart
C) Hifiman, known to have bad solder joints so that is easily fixable on my end, without dealing with a lengthy and inconvenient warranty process. It's worth a look

If you checked continuity across the cable and solder joints and its good, seems there may be no easy fixes. If you have no continuity across the driver coil, seems your driver is open. Compare against the other side (carefully). If this is the case, I think Hifiman repairs their headphones for a set fee but you have to contact them. I think fixing an open driver coil will be unreliable and difficult. I have ideas but for the trouble, I'd get a new driver (matched preferable which I think Hifiman does). If in US, I found best rate to ship package to China is USPS. UPS and FedEx prices will give you a heart attack!

Good luck! I would also check on what Hifiman's warranty is for their repairs.

Good luck.

 

[Chillzone21]

Couldn't find any Ananda ultra thick pads on the net, no one making them? For HE1000either.

Anyways, cut some foam, stuck it under the original foam and stitched up the material , added about 10mm to the size. Now my ears are in complete space, ahhh the comfort.

So annoying those thin pads, my ears always scraping the edges.

 

[omniweltall]

Couldn't find any Ananda ultra thick pads on the net, no one making them? For HE1000either.

Anyways, cut some foam, stuck it under the original foam and stitched up the material , added about 10mm to the size. Now my ears are in complete space, ahhh the comfort.

So annoying those thin pads, my ears always scraping the edges.

Agreed. Pads are a bit thin.

What is the impact on tbe sound?

 

[Chillzone21]

Agreed. Pads are a bit thin.

What is the impact on the sound?

I thought there was more siblance at first, maybe my ears adjusted, but now they seem alright. Recommend the upgrade.

Edit: after a few days with the new pad thickness, sound is awesome, more spacious/airy and better definition.

 

[Module]

Okay, Hifiman, saga continues. I just received Anandas and it took me a few hours to damage the cable and now I have a little pops in right channel. Simply put, it's my third cable from Hifiman (2 Sundara's and now one comes with Ananda) and it's always the same, except now it damages not so long after unboxing lol.. I can't agree more with Z review of Edition XX (he claims this cable worst cable ever, and Sundara/Ananda shares this)
.

Good job Hifiman.
Guess I need buy $1600 Arya to get more or less fine sturdy fabric cable and without driver issues. A year of owning of Hifiman headphones and I actually have contacting with customer service more (which actually really helpful and fast, kudos for them), than listening to them. But build quality issues... Freaking ridiculous.

 

[G0rt]

I snagged a Focal balanced cable early on for my Ananda, and have had no issues. The Focal is a bit stiff, certainly compared to my Nornes, but works fine.

I use a relatively inexpensive Dyson balanced cable with my Sundara, and again have had no (further) issues.

The stock cables, besides being single ended, seem ... fragile.

 

[oqvist]

How did you manage to break the cable? Had no issues with mine so sofar uis splendid. Flexibel, light managable and there is no sound improvement with the python I got with my focal Elear. 3.5 seem to be a new standard got a Denon ah-d7200 to share cables with as well. Very practical.

Ananda leaks as we all know like mad. Maybe a big reasons it cant produce high dB though lcd-2 still could.

 

[Dramlin]

My stock cable jacket started to pull out of the plug to the point that it was no longer connected. I knew it was only a matter of time before I would snag the cable on something and rip the leads out, so I ended up super gluing the jacket back into the plug to reinforce it a bit. The build quality of the cable isn't the greatest...

All that said, I purchased two aftermarket cables made of PCOCC and OCC to hopefully replace the stock cable. Over weeks of testing I concluded that the stock cable still sounds the best (more details, wider sound stage, more balanced). So while Hifiman isn't building the cable to last, it sure sounds good.