[conquerator2]

There're worse offenders, sore. I just think it is the last thing once should tweak, only after he has a TOTL amp, DAC and headphone, which provide a more palpable difference, IMO.

 

[rb2013]

  There're worse offenders, sore. I just think it is the last thing once should tweak, only after he has a TOTL amp, DAC and headphone, which provide a more palpable difference, IMO.

I've had cables that make a bigger difference then amp changes.  I've been rolling both insanely for 20 yrs.
 
Don't underestimate what better cables can do.

 

[Sajk]

 
You might want to try a better cable, I've had good success with the Audio Sensibility Ref 1.5M.  I tried 5 different cables, some more expensive -this was the best.  Not ridiculously priced.  $219 for a 1.5M (the optimal digital coax length to reduce back reflections)
 
http://audiosensibility.com/blog/products-2/digital-cables-occ-copper-and-occ-silver/#!/Statement-Silver-S-PDIF-RCA-BNC-Digital-Cable/p/17562670/category=4059160
 
 
Which cable are you using for USB?
 
PS Those Sonus Faber Cremona Auditors are awesome speakers! - a friend has a pr

I am using AudioQuest Carbon USB cable.
 
Frankly speaking I don't see the reason to use expensive cables for 170$ converter.
Maybe it makes sense for Berkeley Alpha USB but not for Gustard U12, just my opinion
 
Waiting for advice/tips for possible mods.

 

[Sajk]

I am using AudioQuest Carbon USB cable.
 
Frankly speaking I don't see the reason to use expensive cables for 170$ converter.
Maybe it makes sense for Berkeley Alpha USB but not for Gustard U12, just my opinion
 
Waiting for advice/tips for possible mods.

 

[phile1]

I've had cables that make a bigger difference then amp changes.  I've been rolling both insanely for 20 yrs.
Don't underestimate what better cables can do.

everyone his own experience...
i tried various cables, and took care of placebo effect : i bought "right price" cables (never above 60usd). I was right because i saved money i could put later in good gear that enabled nice quality jumps, much higher than a cable change could ever offer. But maybe my amp is already a good one ...

 

[rb2013]

  I am using AudioQuest Carbon USB cable.
 
Frankly speaking I don't see the reason to use expensive cables for 170$ converter.
Maybe it makes sense for Berkeley Alpha USB but not for Gustard U12, just my opinion
 
Waiting for advice/tips for possible mods.

Well those AudioQuest should be pretty good -although I never heard them.  I was just curious.
 
I don't rank equipment's sound by price - I have $800 amps that sound better then the $10,000 ones I've owned.
My Maggie 1.6 QRs are some of the best sounding speakers I've ever owned (better in many ways then my old $30K Talon Firebirds).  I paid $800 used from a dealer - I have $1500 of cables hanging off the back of them.
 
They're producing the best sound I've ever heard (thanks partly to the Gustard U12).

 

[rb2013]

everyone his own experience...
i tried various cables, and took care of placebo effect : i bought "right price" cables (never above 60usd). I was right because i saved money i could put later in good gear that enabled nice quality jumps, much higher than a cable change could ever offer. But maybe my amp is already a good one ...

So you've tried lot's of audio cables - like?  Oh that's right never above '$60' - that rules out most.  Your amp 'must be a good one'.
 
May I suggest some new speaker cables for you to try.  A $44 bargain.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Heavy-Duty-4-Gauge-Glo-Watt/dp/B00002243Y

 

[Benny-x]

  I am using AudioQuest Carbon USB cable.
 
Frankly speaking I don't see the reason to use expensive cables for 170$ converter.
Maybe it makes sense for Berkeley Alpha USB but not for Gustard U12, just my opinion
 
Waiting for advice/tips for possible mods.

Spending a few hundred bucks on a cable that you'll only ever use on a low value product isn't a great investment, you're right. But if you ever think you'll get a better version of that component, then you might want to make your initial cable purchase a bit better and get something you won't need to buy again. Those cables that were linked so seem like nice quality for a good price. I'm not saying that the cables definitely sound different, but having a well built one definitely does make me feel good
 
To your point about the mods for the U12, though, I'll put down a list soon. I'm also trying to consolidate one from around the various forums because I'd like to order all the parts at one time. On the up side, of all the mods so far, only the AB5100/S seems to be unique and harder to get; all of the other mods should be able to be bought on digikey or mouser. 
 
Mods so far:
- Replace 45.1584MHz clock with Crystek - 957 (CCHD-957 45.158MHz)
- Replace 49.152MHz clock with Crystek (CCHD-957 49.152MHz)
- Shield clocks with Mu-metal or 3M AB5100/S (or both, if you've got 'em )
- Replace transformer with any CE, FCC, UL, etc. rated transformer. As long as there's more copper in it and it's rated, it should be fine. Transformers used on a previous Gustard - U10 upgrade were an Amgis/Alfamag or Talema unit.
- Shield transformer with copper, nickle or Mu-metal (or all 3, if you've got 'em )
- Replace PS(power supply) filter capacitors with caps like Panasonic FCs at 2200uf (I'm going to go a bit higher on capacitance)
- Replace the main rectifier filter caps with ones like the Nichicon FP Polymers (2x lower ESR)
- Replace SPDIF/AES pulse transformers with Murata DA101C; or ones like Newava S1122(very good feedback), Lundahl LL1572(used in Audio Note gear), or Scientific Conversion SC947-02(experienced users' best feedback)
- Shield XMOS and other chips with 3M AB5100/S
 
(edit: added below)
~Prices (from mouser or digikey):
1. Crystek 957 45MHz - I was wrong, it's a 22.5792MHz - Anyway, Crystek of this one - $27
2. Crystek 957 49MHz - I was wrong, it's a 24.576MHz - Anyway, Crystek of this one - $27
3. Mu-metal & AB-5100(non-S) - already have and want to use on something. I have more than what I'll need for here.
4. New transformer - (Amgis, for example) $20; but let's say a more expensive one @ $50.
5. Copper, Mu-Metal, Nickle shilding - again, already have and want to use.
6. Panasonic FC or Nichicon KZ @ 3500uf(for example) - $5-7(for 2)
7. Nichicon FP Polymers - $2
8. Scientific Conversion SC947-02 - $20
9. AB-5100(non-S) - you know it.
10. Murata - AC line filter choke - $2 
 
-----------------------------------------

So, total cost to me is about $130, exactly what I paid for the thing. That might seem a little out there since it's almost the same cost as the Gustard U12, but the issue is that the Gustard was just so cheap from the beginning. If it was more expensive then it would make those prices seem lower and more realistic. Haha, in looking at what I'm planning to do and change on the unit, imagine how much that would cost from a manufacturerer or modder...

Like damn, I just finshed with that never ending nightmare, i mean funding, campaign of the Geek Pulse and modifications like that were like $100 a pop. But ahhh, I can't talk shiit too much. I'll be happy when I get my tricked out DAC+AMP from them for work :-D

Anyway, I bet if I geared this Gustard U12 thing up with those all mods it'd be and interesting little piece of gear to listen to. Like I had mentioned earlier, even if it doesn't sound that great, the construction of it feels very impressive and I loved it as soon as I picked it up.

I just hope I don't screwing drop it or something when I'm done and ruin all my work @_@

 

[Sajk]

  Spending a few hundred bucks on a cable that you'll only ever use on a low value product isn't a great investment, you're right. But if you ever think you'll get a better version of that component, then you might want to make your initial cable purchase a bit better and get something you won't need to buy again. Those cables that were linked so seem like nice quality for a good price. I'm not saying that the cables definitely sound different, but having a well built one definitely does make me feel good
 
To your point about the mods for the U12, though, I'll put down a list soon. I'm also trying to consolidate one from around the various forums because I'd like to order all the parts at one time. On the up side, of all the mods so far, only the AB5100/S seems to be unique and harder to get; all of the other mods should be able to be bought on digikey or mouser. 
 
Mods so far:
- Replace 45.1584MHz clock with Crystek - 957 (CCHD-957 45.158MHz)
- Replace 49.152MHz clock with Crystek (CCHD-957 49.152MHz)
- Shield clocks with Mu-metal or 3M AB5100/S (or both, if you've got 'em )
- Replace transformer with any CE, FCC, UL, etc. rated transformer. As long as there's more copper in it and it's rated, it should be fine. Transformers used on a previous Gustard - U10 upgrade were an Amgis/Alfamag or Talema unit.
- Shield transformer with copper, nickle or Mu-metal (or all 3, if you've got 'em )
- Replace PS(power supply) filter capacitors with caps like Panasonic FCs at 2200uf (I'm going to go a bit higher on capacitance)
- Replace the main rectifier filter caps with ones like the Nichicon FP Polymers (2x lower ESR)
- Replace SPDIF/AES pulse transformers with Murata DA101C; or ones like Newava S1122(very good feedback), Lundahl LL1572(used in Audio Note gear), or Scientific Conversion SC947-02(experienced users' best feedback)
- Shield XMOS and other chips with 3M AB5100/S

Great! Thanks a lot! This is what I expected

 Will start with pulse transformer replacement and caps.
​Unfortunately mouser doesn't send to my home country Ukraine, will try to find another source.
Thank you again!

 

[Benny-x]

  Great! Thanks a lot! This is what I expected

 Will start with pulse transformer replacement and caps.
​Unfortunately mouser doesn't send to my home country Ukraine, will try to find another source.
Thank you again!

I edited the last post, have a look now. Fixed the clocks and added #10.

 

[rb2013]

  Spending a few hundred bucks on a cable that you'll only ever use on a low value product isn't a great investment, you're right. But if you ever think you'll get a better version of that component, then you might want to make your initial cable purchase a bit better and get something you won't need to buy again. Those cables that were linked so seem like nice quality for a good price. I'm not saying that the cables definitely sound different, but having a well built one definitely does make me feel good
 
To your point about the mods for the U12, though, I'll put down a list soon. I'm also trying to consolidate one from around the various forums because I'd like to order all the parts at one time. On the up side, of all the mods so far, only the AB5100/S seems to be unique and harder to get; all of the other mods should be able to be bought on digikey or mouser. 
 
Mods so far:
- Replace 45.1584MHz clock with Crystek - 957 (CCHD-957 45.158MHz)
- Replace 49.152MHz clock with Crystek (CCHD-957 49.152MHz)
- Shield clocks with Mu-metal or 3M AB5100/S (or both, if you've got 'em )
- Replace transformer with any CE, FCC, UL, etc. rated transformer. As long as there's more copper in it and it's rated, it should be fine. Transformers used on a previous Gustard - U10 upgrade were an Amgis/Alfamag or Talema unit.
- Shield transformer with copper, nickle or Mu-metal (or all 3, if you've got 'em )
- Replace PS(power supply) filter capacitors with caps like Panasonic FCs at 2200uf (I'm going to go a bit higher on capacitance)
- Replace the main rectifier filter caps with ones like the Nichicon FP Polymers (2x lower ESR)
- Replace SPDIF/AES pulse transformers with Murata DA101C; or ones like Newava S1122(very good feedback), Lundahl LL1572(used in Audio Note gear), or Scientific Conversion SC947-02(experienced users' best feedback)
- Shield XMOS and other chips with 3M AB5100/S
 
(edit: added below)
~Prices (from mouser or digikey):
1. Crystek 957 45MHz - I was wrong, it's a 22.5792MHz - Anyway, Crystek of this one - $27
2. Crystek 957 49MHz - I was wrong, it's a 24.576MHz - Anyway, Crystek of this one - $27
3. Mu-metal & AB-5100(non-S) - already have and want to use on something. I have more than what I'll need for here.
4. New transformer - (Amgis, for example) $20; but let's say a more expensive one @ $50.
5. Copper, Mu-Metal, Nickle shilding - again, already have and want to use.
6. Panasonic FC or Nichicon KZ @ 3500uf(for example) - $5-7(for 2)
7. Nichicon FP Polymers - $2
8. Scientific Conversion SC947-02 - $20
9. AB-5100(non-S) - you know it.
10. Murata - AC line filter choke - $2 
 
-----------------------------------------

So, total cost to me is about $130, exactly what I paid for the thing. That might seem a little out there since it's almost the same cost as the Gustard U12, but the issue is that the Gustard was just so cheap from the beginning. If it was more expensive then it would make those prices seem lower and more realistic. Haha, in looking at what I'm planning to do and change on the unit, imagine how much that would cost from a manufacturerer or modder...

Like damn, I just finshed with that never ending nightmare, i mean funding, campaign of the Geek Pulse and modifications like that were like $100 a pop. But ahhh, I can't talk shiit too much. I'll be happy when I get my tricked out DAC+AMP from them for work :-D

Anyway, I bet if I geared this Gustard U12 thing up with those all mods it'd be and interesting little piece of gear to listen to. Like I had mentioned earlier, even if it doesn't sound that great, the construction of it feels very impressive and I loved it as soon as I picked it up.

I just hope I don't screwing drop it or something when I'm done and ruin all my work @_@

Did you guys even read this thread?  If you're going to summarize a long thread -at least be accurate.

 
Be careful on the transformer swap - it looks like the pin layout in the U12 is non-standard (at least that's what was the conclusion from earlier in the thread).
http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/120 (post #123 and #125, #126, #127). 
 
Murata pulse transformers - Oh no, here we go again!

.  The Pulse transfomrers are fine.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/180 (post #186)
 
Due to the way the XMOS internally clocks off the external clocks - I highly doubt a clock upgrade would make a difference.  Do you know who OEMs the Gustard clocks?  They're TXCO (A temperature-controlled crystal oscillator) 0.1ppm's link to past comments:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/75 (post #83 through #89).
 
The 'lytic cap swap and ERS shielding a good, easy and cheap way to go.  I'd also replace the fuse with a Furutech.  Beyond that a waist of time and money.  Buy better cables.

 

[rb2013]

  Great! Thanks a lot! This is what I expected

 Will start with pulse transformer replacement and caps.
​Unfortunately mouser doesn't send to my home country Ukraine, will try to find another source.
Thank you again!

Do you expect someone to read and summarize every thread - once you decide to grace it with your presence?

 

[Sajk]

 
Do you expect someone to read and summarize every thread - once you decide to grace it with your presence?

Believe me, I read the entire thread before asking, try to re-read my first post. Expected to see specific recommendations on capacitors replacement and got them as well as other tips.

 

[Benny-x]

  Did you guys even read this thread?  If you're going to summarize a long thread -at least be accurate.

 
Be careful on the transformer swap - it looks like the pin layout in the U12 is non-standard (at least that's what was the conclusion from earlier in the thread).
http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/120 (post #123 and #125, #126, #127). 
 
Murata pulse transformers - Oh no, here we go again!

.  The Pulse transfomrers are fine.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/180 (post #186)
 
Due to the way the XMOS internally clocks off the external clocks - I highly doubt a clock upgrade would make a difference.  Do you know who OEMs the Gustard clocks?  They're TXCO (A temperature-controlled crystal oscillator) 0.1ppm's link to past comments:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/75 (post #83 through #89).
 
The 'lytic cap swap and ERS shielding a good, easy and cheap way to go.  I'd also replace the fuse with a Furutech.  Beyond that a waist of time and money.  Buy better cables.

 
We both know that I read it. As for the transformer, there was actually no conclusion about its wiring as the guy who was going to check never got his unit because it was lost in the mail. I'll check with mine before that, for sure. That's also why I never listed a SKU, just a brand. I figure if someone was dumb/smart enough to actually haul out a working PSU, they'd have an idea about how to put the next one back in. 
 
And the clocks, no I don't know who OE's 0.1ppm TCXO clocks for them, but they don't look much different that all the other ones I see one Chinese hi-fi devices in all sorts of price ranges... I find it hard to believe that if these clocks really were that good that this device would be this competitively priced. Even at bulk pricing, there's no way they'd be moving enough units to beat the curve and make money if the internals were as expensive as the supposedly lesser quality Crysteks and others that I mentioned. And if you're going to ask, I have in fact looked into who the company is with my Chinese audio friends and they said Gustard is an unknown. I agree though, I have no real evidence for questioning their clocks and am only spending money and time on something I have no way of knowing beforehand. If I had 2 units to compare though...
 
The Murata DA101C pulse transformers, I must have forgotten that part. The last I saw in the discussion was someone saying one thing and someone else saying something else. I've read elsewhere that Newava and Scientific Conversion have almost opposite approaches to pulse transformers, but that people seem to think one or the other is the best. I'm willing to take my chances with it as I have no benchmark and no idea. Again though, this is just me having fun and seeing how I can mod a component that seems relatively easy to do so with. If I hook it up and hear a difference, I'll be super pumped. As for anyone else looking to do the same, I assume they'd think everything through before they decide whether they want to go down any of the 9 paths I've mentioned.
 
Oh, and if you knew the cost of the shielding, you'd retract that last sentence... The 3M AB-5100/S is about $70/A4 sheet, if you can even find it. The Mu-metal is ~$40 for an A5, and the ERS paper is ~$30/A4. Luckily I didn't pay those prices AT ALL and I got this stuff over a long period of time. IU do look forward to finally getting to use it, though! Make a verrrrrrrrrrrrrry small portion of the expense money well spent
 
As for electrolytic cap mods, they almost universally seem to make things better, eh? Once I've practiced enough on lower priced components and figure I'm ready I'm going to undertake a HUGE mod to my Audio-gd Phoenix in both the headphone out and power supply sections. Those parts cost over $250 just for caps... I've still got to get new wire and a couple hard to find caps, then have at it. You can look up the mod already though, it's called Prickely Pete's Phoenix MAXX Mod. He did his Reference 1/7 as well. He was pretty awesome.

 

[rb2013]

   
We both know that I read it. As for the transformer, there was actually no conclusion about its wiring as the guy who was going to check never got his unit because it was lost in the mail. I'll check with mine before that, for sure. That's also why I never listed a SKU, just a brand. I figure if someone was dumb/smart enough to actually haul out a working PSU, they'd have an idea about how to put the next one back in. 
 
And the clocks, no I don't know who OE's 0.1ppm TCXO clocks for them, but they don't look much different that all the other ones I see one Chinese hi-fi devices in all sorts of price ranges... I find it hard to believe that if these clocks really were that good that this device would be this competitively priced. Even at bulk pricing, there's no way they'd be moving enough units to beat the curve and make money if the internals were as expensive as the supposedly lesser quality Crysteks and others that I mentioned. And if you're going to ask, I have in fact looked into who the company is with my Chinese audio friends and they said Gustard is an unknown. I agree though, I have no real evidence for questioning their clocks and am only spending money and time on something I have no way of knowing beforehand. If I had 2 units to compare though...
 
The Murata DA101C pulse transformers, I must have forgotten that part. The last I saw in the discussion was someone saying one thing and someone else saying something else. I've read elsewhere that Newava and Scientific Conversion have almost opposite approaches to pulse transformers, but that people seem to think one or the other is the best. I'm willing to take my chances with it as I have no benchmark and no idea. Again though, this is just me having fun and seeing how I can mod a component that seems relatively easy to do so with. If I hook it up and hear a difference, I'll be super pumped. As for anyone else looking to do the same, I assume they'd think everything through before they decide whether they want to go down any of the 9 paths I've mentioned.
 
Oh, and if you knew the cost of the shielding, you'd retract that last sentence... The 3M AB-5100/S is about $70/A4 sheet, if you can even find it. The Mu-metal is ~$40 for an A5, and the ERS paper is ~$30/A4. Luckily I didn't pay those prices AT ALL and I got this stuff over a long period of time. IU do look forward to finally getting to use it, though! Make a verrrrrrrrrrrrrry small portion of the expense money well spent
 
As for electrolytic cap mods, they almost universally seem to make things better, eh? Once I've practiced enough on lower priced components and figure I'm ready I'm going to undertake a HUGE mod to my Audio-gd Phoenix in both the headphone out and power supply sections. Those parts cost over $250 just for caps... I've still got to get new wire and a couple hard to find caps, then have at it. You can look up the mod already though, it's called Prickely Pete's Phoenix MAXX Mod. He did his Reference 1/7 as well. He was pretty awesome.

+1 Fair enough.  I just didn't want folks coming to this thread thinking that was the summary. 
I look forward to your mods and hope they do make a positive change.  Definitely download Chodi's Thesycon Driver set - the SpyTool is awesome (many, many thanks!). 
 
I have been running my U12 for several months now 24/7 - over 2 billion data packets IN FB, 3 billion out!  Only 35 empty packets IN FB, none out, ERR: IsoPacketFailed 3.
Never an audible hiccup, jitter dance, or DAC unlock!  Never a PC crash or blue screen - extremely stable (windows 7 64 bit/ Foobar/SoX upsampler).   Can;t ask for better then that.
 
I agree film and electrolytic cap upgrades do make a difference. Film caps especially so (See my DAC mod project http://www.head-fi.org/t/740362/lite-dac60-pcm1704-r2r-tubed-dac-mod-project).
 
For a small project like this I used the ERS tape - 2ft is plenty - $8. 
http://www.partsconnexion.com/spoints-66632img.htmlhttp://www.partsconnexion.com/spoints-66632img.html