GUSTARD DAC-R26 Balanced Decoder R2R+1Bit Dual Native Decoding Music Bridge

May 24, 2023 at 4:49 PM Post #6,121 of 9,916
Which screws should I remove to open the case?
 
May 24, 2023 at 5:03 PM Post #6,123 of 9,916
They are underneath the unit and on the rear l believe? lf l remember correctly you will need a Allen key or star key, l'm sure Rodders or Jake will confirm
On the bottom, there are three sets of two on each side along with five more towards the center.
 
May 24, 2023 at 5:46 PM Post #6,124 of 9,916
On the bottom, there are three sets of two on each side along with five more towards the center.
Ahh. Search is my friend. Post 1105. Page 74.
 
May 25, 2023 at 2:01 AM Post #6,125 of 9,916
They are underneath the unit and on the rear l believe? lf l remember correctly you will need a Allen key or star key, l'm sure Rodders or Jake will confirm
The three pairs of screws/bolts underneath, from the front facia unscrew the front bolt (closest to the front fascia) from each pair, these bolts fasten into the top panel to allow it's removal. The rear bolt to each pair holds the machined aluminium side panel in place so leave these be.

So that's six bolts in all and one rear top bolt of the rear panel in the middle. If the lid is still too tight to lift up from the rear middle, loosen the outer top bolts to the top on either side of the rear panel.
 
May 25, 2023 at 2:24 AM Post #6,126 of 9,916
After about a week of burn-in, I tested the LB clock and compared it to the OCK-1 with two devices: the R26 and the AGD DI-20HE.
I used for the trials the Gustard C2 cable, and a LMR400 cable to which I applied the copper/Faraday tape tweak.
The LB was powered by the 5V/3V output of a Shanti.

With the DI-20HE, the LB does not improve the sound over the internal clock. On the contrary, with the 10 mHz input of the LB, the sound is flatter than with the internal clock. On the other hand, the OCK-1 improves the sound of the DI-20HE with an additional relief/depth.
The LB does improve the sound of the R26, but not as much as the OCK-1.

I don't have a LPS of 7.5V.
Do you think that there's something else that I should try, before asking for a refund?
 
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May 25, 2023 at 2:34 AM Post #6,127 of 9,916
Can you pm me and I send a cable
This device is very sensitive to cables
I had Martin T bring some cables over and most were a backwards step also a few cable Stellabagpus sent were a backwards step
Thanks for your honest review
 
May 25, 2023 at 2:54 AM Post #6,128 of 9,916
After about a week of burn-in, I tested the LB clock and compared it to the OCK-1 with two devices: the R26 and the AGD DI-20HE.
I used for the trials the Gustard C2 cable, and a LMR400 cable to which I applied the copper/Faraday tape tweak.
The LB was powered by the 5V/3V output of a Shanti.

With the DI-20HE, the LB does not improve the sound over the internal clock. On the contrary, with the 10 mHz input of the LB, the sound is flatter than with the internal clock. On the other hand, the OCK-1 improves the sound of the DI-20HE with an additional relief/depth.
The LB does improve the sound of the R26, but not as much as the OCK-1.

I don't have a LPS of 7.5V.
Do you think that there's something else that I should try, before asking for a refund?
Assuming you’ve used the previously recommended settings and sleep mode for the LB then try John’s cable. I doubt a higher voltage will make that much difference…less so than sleep mode. With the OCK-1 are you using square or sine wave? I’d be interested in how the OCK-2 sounds with the R26….
 
May 25, 2023 at 2:58 AM Post #6,129 of 9,916
After about a week of burn-in, I tested the LB clock and compared it to the OCK-1 with two devices: the R26 and the AGD DI-20HE.
I used for the trials the Gustard C2 cable, and a LMR400 cable to which I applied the copper/Faraday tape tweak.
The LB was powered by the 5V/3V output of a Shanti.

With the DI-20HE, the LB does not improve the sound over the internal clock. On the contrary, with the 10 mHz input of the LB, the sound is flatter than with the internal clock. On the other hand, the OCK-1 improves the sound of the DI-20HE with an additional relief/depth.
The LB does improve the sound of the R26, but not as much as the OCK-1.

I don't have a LPS of 7.5V.
Do you think that there's something else that I should try, before asking for a refund?
Interesting view point, and thanks for sharing. The LB works well with the R26 direct, and l'm not sure the $ difference the LB & OCK-1, out of interest did you play with the software side of the LB, and as John stated, the LB is sensitive to the clock cable being used.
Thanks for sharing
 
May 25, 2023 at 3:02 AM Post #6,130 of 9,916
After about a week of burn-in, I tested the LB clock and compared it to the OCK-1 with two devices: the R26 and the AGD DI-20HE.
I used for the trials the Gustard C2 cable, and a LMR400 cable to which I applied the copper/Faraday tape tweak.
The LB was powered by the 5V/3V output of a Shanti.

With the DI-20HE, the LB does not improve the sound over the internal clock. On the contrary, with the 10 mHz input of the LB, the sound is flatter than with the internal clock. On the other hand, the OCK-1 improves the sound of the DI-20HE with an additional relief/depth.
The LB does improve the sound of the R26, but not as much as the OCK-1
I don't have a LPS of 7.5V.
Do you think that there's something else that I should try, before asking for a refund?
Sorry to hear the LB isn't doing it for you, can you describe how it is doing anything at all?

Others have already stated that the LB doesn't seem to improve things via the Audio GD DI-20HE, no surprise there, but with the R26+LB there should be a focus to the sound that brings together the performer and the music in a way that makes things more real, more synced and natural. It's subtle at first but then it's not once you hear the difference, if that makes sense.

This was evident right from the start, but I found that if you just keep switching from internal to external clock to compare it kinda confuses you too much. better to give a whole track or tracks a good listen before change. Don't want to come over as sucking eggs here!

As far as ensuring you have tried your best with the LB, other than ensuring that on the LB software check you have unchecked the output 2 and made sure you have 16ma and 9 set then activate sleep mode (where the software warns you that it can only then be changed when the power is reset) this turns off the circuitry which cleans things up sound wise. Ensure that the LB USB is disconnected from any PC/Mac or Laptop as the power is transferred via this cable and will mess things up.

Oh I also found the LB to be very sensitive to vibration and placing it on carbon fibre isolators really helped it, as well as placing a weight ontop to help damp it.

I go along with John and the fussiness of cables, I'm using a generic chi-fi RG-402 cable inside the R26 to the LB which is only 150-70mm long which works well.
I'm sure this can be improved on.
 
May 25, 2023 at 3:13 AM Post #6,131 of 9,916
I wanted to check again the configuration of the LB. I connected it anew to the computer with its USB cables, and I connected the antenna, but its app does not see it.
I downloaded the app on another Mac, and it does not see it neither… I don't understand why, because I could configure it a few days ago.

On the app "Not Connected" is colored in red.

EDIT
Now, the clock is seen.
 
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May 25, 2023 at 3:29 AM Post #6,132 of 9,916
The LB was configured for 2 outputs of 10 mHz.
I'll configure it for a single output, and try it again.

Can someone remind me the value that I should set for the "Output 2 Phase Offset"?

Capture d’écran 2023-05-25 à 09.20.26.png
 
May 25, 2023 at 3:39 AM Post #6,133 of 9,916
The LB was configured for 2 outputs of 10 mHz.
I'll configure it for a single output, and try it again.

Can someone remind me the value that I should set for the "Output 2 Phase Offset"?

Capture d’écran 2023-05-25 à 09.20.26.png
You should disable output 2 as already mentioned and ignore Output 2 Phase offset as its for output 2 you've just disabled. everything else looks OK
 
May 25, 2023 at 3:59 AM Post #6,134 of 9,916
You should disable output 2 as already mentioned and ignore Output 2 Phase offset as its for output 2 you've just disabled. everything else looks OK
I configured to for a single output, and it makes a difference.
It seems to work better this way;
 

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