[money4me247]

  IMO, the biggest issue with the Lyr is that you need double the tubes of the Ember/Solstice.  You have to pay more for matched pairs, etc.  Having only a single tube really frees you up when tube rolling.  I'm sure there's some sonic benefit to having two matched tubes, but I suspect the difference between the Solstice and the Lyr is far less than the difference between the Solstice and the Polaris.

+1 good tips

 

[Amish]

I have to agree. I have around $1000+ in tubes and if I would have had to buy them in matched pairs...well I'd have a lot less tubes in my collection.
 
I love the single tube amps.

 

[CarlitoSyrichta]

Hello everyone!
 
Long time lurker here. Just got a project solstice and the HD650 (thanks adorama) for my first real setup.

 I've got around 12 hours max of use on the solstice and around 20 hours on the 650's (got them first). Haven't opened up the amp yet to fiddle with the settings and all. Got a few questions and I don't wan to bother Jeremy as much as I can, so I finally decided to create an account here and ask you guys instead.
 
http://i.imgur.com/iEzVaSQ.jpg
Lucky number 13! 

 I wanted a replacement tube just in case I mess things up and destroy the stock one (this is my first amp after all) and Jeremy recommended the 12bh7a (got a GE) for the HD650. Also got a sylvania 6sn7GTB (yellow print, silver top) and the 9 - 8 pin adapter since people were are raving about them in the ember tube rolling thread. I opted for the CNC'd chassis (even if I like the acrylic chassis better) so I wouldn't have to run the amp topless when I'm using the 6sn7 adpater. I live on the other side of the world so I had to make sure I got everything I need in one go. 
 
Now, for the questions:
1. What output resistance should I be using for the 650's? It's currently on Medium.
2. How do I pull out the stock tube? Tried yanking it out earlier but it just wouldn't budge.
3.I want to try the 12bh7a next before I move on to the 6sn7GTB. Do I have to mess with the OHV setting for the 12bh7a or just for the 6sn7?
4. Is it safe to leave the amp on for hours on end or should I turn it off every couple of hours?
5. How do I clean this thing? Jeremy recommended suppressed air but those are hard to find where I live. Can I use a small, handheld vacuum or would that be too strong?
 
I think that's about it for now. Sorry for the wall of text. Happy listening! 

 

[Stillhart]

  Hello everyone!
 
Long time lurker here. Just got a project solstice and the HD650 (thanks adorama) for my first real setup.

 I've got around 12 hours max of use on the solstice and around 20 hours on the 650's (got them first). Haven't opened up the amp yet to fiddle with the settings and all. Got a few questions and I don't wan to bother Jeremy as much as I can, so I finally decided to create an account here and ask you guys instead.
 
http://i.imgur.com/iEzVaSQ.jpg
Lucky number 13! 

 I wanted a replacement tube just in case I mess things up and destroy the stock one (this is my first amp after all) and Jeremy recommended the 12bh7a (got a GE) for the HD650. Also got a sylvania 6sn7GTB (yellow print, silver top) and the 9 - 8 pin adapter since people were are raving about them in the ember tube rolling thread. I opted for the CNC'd chassis (even if I like the acrylic chassis better) so I wouldn't have to run the amp topless when I'm using the 6sn7 adpater. I live on the other side of the world so I had to make sure I got everything I need in one go. 
 
Now, for the questions:
1. What output resistance should I be using for the 650's? It's currently on Medium.
2. How do I pull out the stock tube? Tried yanking it out earlier but it just wouldn't budge.
3.I want to try the 12bh7a next before I move on to the 6sn7GTB. Do I have to mess with the OHV setting for the 12bh7a or just for the 6sn7?
4. Is it safe to leave the amp on for hours on end or should I turn it off every couple of hours?
5. How do I clean this thing? Jeremy recommended suppressed air but those are hard to find where I live. Can I use a small, handheld vacuum or would that be too strong?
 
I think that's about it for now. Sorry for the wall of text. Happy listening! 

 
Gratz!  I ordered mine as a kit and it's half-assembled as we speak.  :-D
 
1 - I liked medium on my Ember.  It's easy enough to switch them around and see which you like best.
2 - There's a reason they call it "tube rolling"!  Gently roll the tube from side to side and front to back in a circular motion.  It'll eventually come out easily.
3 - Not sure, sorry.
4 - It's safe and tubes generally sound better when they're warmed up; just be aware that tubes have a finite lifetime so leaving them on will shorten your tube life a bit.  Generally speaking, I used to turn mine on when I got home from work and off when I went to bed.  I wouldn't be able to use it for a couple hours after I got home, but I liked having it nice and warm and ready to go.
5 - I'm sure the vacuum would be fine.

 

[Amish]

you can switch the output res. while listening to music. This way you can hear the difference it makes.

 

[Phishin Phool]

   
IMO, the biggest issue with the Lyr is that you need double the tubes of the Ember/Solstice.  You have to pay more for matched pairs, etc.  Having only a single tube really frees you up when tube rolling.  I'm sure there's some sonic benefit to having two matched tubes, but I suspect the difference between the Solstice and the Lyr is far less than the difference between the Solstice and the Polaris.

First of all, “matched” refers to set of power amp tubes. Preamp tubes are not sold as matched sets, nor are matched sets required.
In the early days of tubes amps nobody really worried about matched sets of power amp tubes, and many manufacturers to this day still do not. I have even heard it theorized that part of the old Fender "sound" was due to the fact that they did not care about matched tubes. They just plugged in the tubes, dialed in a recommended bias voltage, and that was it.

Tubes will test differently from day to day because of fluctuations in the power supply and "drift" in the tube over time as it ages. The first 100 hours of playing, and especially the first 24 to 48 hours, may change matching significantly enough to render it a useless consideration.
Even "burned in" tubes can and will drift over time. Any supplier who tells you that "burned in tubes will not drift" is either lying to you, or does not know what they are talking about.
For that matter, pick up one tube of your new “matched” set. Shake it real hard for a few seconds. Guess what? You no longer have a matched set. Vibration and heat have a major affect on tubes.

Saying that matched tubes are absolutely necessary is a bit of Mojo in itself. This issue is not as big a deal as a lot of people make it out to be. For this to be a big deal, you have to assume symmetrical power supply, and zero component tolerance. Still, it is a good idea to have the tubes matched as closely as possible. It sounds better, tubes may last a little longer, and hum and noise will sometimes be reduced.
Most power amp tubes are sold in matched sets anyway. It bugs the crap out of me though, to see sellers charging extra for "premium matching" or some other such nonsense. It's really just a big ripoff in most cases. For most amps, a plate current match within 20% is acceptable, and 10% is excellent. Matching any closer than that is not necessary.
 
I have seen many articles from reputable sources that say the same thing
 

 

[Stillhart]

  First of all, “matched” refers to set of power amp tubes. Preamp tubes are not sold as matched sets, nor are matched sets required.
In the early days of tubes amps nobody really worried about matched sets of power amp tubes, and many manufacturers to this day still do not. I have even heard it theorized that part of the old Fender "sound" was due to the fact that they did not care about matched tubes. They just plugged in the tubes, dialed in a recommended bias voltage, and that was it.

Tubes will test differently from day to day because of fluctuations in the power supply and "drift" in the tube over time as it ages. The first 100 hours of playing, and especially the first 24 to 48 hours, may change matching significantly enough to render it a useless consideration.
Even "burned in" tubes can and will drift over time. Any supplier who tells you that "burned in tubes will not drift" is either lying to you, or does not know what they are talking about.
For that matter, pick up one tube of your new “matched” set. Shake it real hard for a few seconds. Guess what? You no longer have a matched set. Vibration and heat have a major affect on tubes.

Saying that matched tubes are absolutely necessary is a bit of Mojo in itself. This issue is not as big a deal as a lot of people make it out to be. For this to be a big deal, you have to assume symmetrical power supply, and zero component tolerance. Still, it is a good idea to have the tubes matched as closely as possible. It sounds better, tubes may last a little longer, and hum and noise will sometimes be reduced.
Most power amp tubes are sold in matched sets anyway. It bugs the crap out of me though, to see sellers charging extra for "premium matching" or some other such nonsense. It's really just a big ripoff in most cases. For most amps, a plate current match within 20% is acceptable, and 10% is excellent. Matching any closer than that is not necessary.
 
I have seen many articles from reputable sources that say the same thing
 

 
Sorry, I'm not sure what your point is here.  You wrote a huge post about why you don't need matched tubes but then suggested getting matched tubes.  If your point is that you don't NEED matched tubes but that you SHOULD get them... well that's effectively the same thing, isn't it?

 

[Phishin Phool]

That was a cut and paste from one of many articles that say the same thing. The point in that one is that a general ballpark of ~10% is more than close enough. Personally I don't even think they need to be matched that close and everybodies ears are different. Currently the only tube amp I have is a Project Sunrise II (which I will never sell or part with - it was my first ever amp and to this day pretty much what I listen with ~90% of the time) so I don't have to worry about matched tubes . I did get a pair that came matched but as I am only using one when that one bites the dust I will switch to the other.
 
FWIW my favorite tube so far has been a Psvane 12AU7. I know these come in different grades and the ones I have were the top grade and sound fantastic. Currently I have my P Sunrise being fed from a music hall 25.3 DAC which has the option of tube outputs vial unbalanced rca or solid state output via xlr outs. With an old Mullard I love the sound the sunrise gives and I have the pre-out form it feeding an amp for my Paradigm Studios as well - good stuff. Jeremy is a great guy . 

 

[CarlitoSyrichta]

   
Gratz!  I ordered mine as a kit and it's half-assembled as we speak.  :-D
 
1 - I liked medium on my Ember.  It's easy enough to switch them around and see which you like best.
2 - There's a reason they call it "tube rolling"!  Gently roll the tube from side to side and front to back in a circular motion.  It'll eventually come out easily.
3 - Not sure, sorry.
4 - It's safe and tubes generally sound better when they're warmed up; just be aware that tubes have a finite lifetime so leaving them on will shorten your tube life a bit.  Generally speaking, I used to turn mine on when I got home from work and off when I went to bed.  I wouldn't be able to use it for a couple hours after I got home, but I liked having it nice and warm and ready to go.
5 - I'm sure the vacuum would be fine.

 
Thanks Stillhart. BTW, loved your 2015 canjam impressions, good job man! 
 
Quote:

  you can switch the output res. while listening to music. This way you can hear the difference it makes.

 
Thanks Amish, will play around with the output res later when I get home from work.

 

[CarlitoSyrichta]

Finally managed to remove the stock tube. Phew! thought I'd break the damn thing! I'm testing the GE 12bh7a now. Immediately noticed how much more detailed the sound is compared to the stock ecc82 tube, wow!  
 
EDIT: forgot to mention I changed the output res to high.

 

[Josh-Fi]

Hey guys. Another long time lurcker/new user here.
 
I just bought the Solstice about a week ago after reading the Ember tube rolling thread. I have two other headphone amps, a Bravo Audio Ocean and a Mayflower O2/Odac.
Simply put I got bored with both their sound. the Brovo has that tube goodness but way too much gain for me, it's sound is way too forward and it lacks a bit in fine details. 
 
The Mayflower is very revealing and analytical, not harsh but after a while it just sounded un-lifelike and flat compared to the Brovo's tubey'ness even though it was more resolving. 
I bought the Mayflower thinking that perhaps I'd prefer full solid state sound but after some comparison between the amps I realized I actually quite much prefer the more life-like tubey sound.
 
Long story short I bought the Solstice because of its versatility, looks, and the reviews of the flagship, Ember. I knew it would be more resolving than the Bravo but also still have the tubey-ness that the O2 lacked.
 
 
 
I've already done some modding to my Solstice: 
 
 
1. I bored the tube hole out to 35mm to fit the new adapter(6F8G to 12A*7)
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_111248_zpsdeexlrif.jpg
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_115212_zpsktzj3voo.jpg
 
 
 
2. I opened up and took apart my JDS LABS ODAC and  hot-glued the chip board to the bottom plate of the Solstice chassis
 
 http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_111344_zpsmizt4t55.jpg
 
..and soldered the leads straight into the board of the Solstice(no more need for RCA cables. and I do believe I'm getting slightly better sound than before)
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_114011_zpsyohcrxqm.jpg
 
 
So that's it for the upgrades for now, just a 6F8G tube(Zenith black round plates '49) w/ adapter and ODAC integration. 
 
 
Next upgrades will be K73-16 .22uf caps for the output coupling caps and this  for the volume pot. just waiting on them to arrive. then I'll consider this project complete.

 
some pics of the amp assembled:
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_115542_zpsrerstlqa.jpg
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_115831_zpsdov8pbpf.jpg
 
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c31/cozypants/20150407_120222_zpsxonmia5q.jpg

 

[Stillhart]

Well, she's not much to look at, but she's my first amp kit and I love her anyways!  <3
 

 
No sparks or smoke upon first boot up.  Left channel works beautifully!  Now if I can just figure out why the right channel is only giving me a ground hum... lol

 

[Stillhart]

Update:  Well, problem solved.  I stupidly confused the ECC82 with the ECC88 and had the voltage jumper set to 6v instead of 12v.  After about 5 seconds of grueling labor, I "fixed the problem" and now have a fully functional Project Solstice that I assembled with my own two hands.  Looking forward to putting this guy through its paces tonight.

 

[Phishin Phool]

Awedpme do report back, I have a suriser but am intetested in a solstice as well

 

[J&J]

From my experience if you are using Planars the extra power from the Lyr v1 or v2 really makes a difference otherwise the PS is all you really need to enjoy the nuances off tube rolling I've been a big advocate of the PS on these forums and think it's an outstanding wonderful sounding amp