[MrSlim]

  What's holding me back with the Fulla is the usability. If the volume knob is difficult to use, I dont want to be frustrated with it at all times. Considering a Magni 2/Modi 2 Combo.. but not sure if its worth the increase in the price, SQ and aesthetics wise. Also, how powerful is the combo compared to the fulla? if in the future I intend to buy 600ohm headphones, would the fulla be able to drive them or the combo will be better?

 
If you compare the specs, Magni2 is much more powerful, rated at 1.2 Watts for 32 ohms, and 130mWatt for 600 ohms.   Fulla can do 300mW into 32 ohms (so only 1/4 of the capability of Magni2) and is not rated for 600 ohms (its rated at 40mW for 300 ohms).  I have HD580s that are 300 ohms and it seems to drive them fine, but I would be concerned with using it with 600 ohm phones..  
 
I think you need to consider if you are planning on using it as a portable/carryaround type unit or is going to be mostly for desktop use.  I bought one for travel purposes, so the tiny volume control is a trade off I can live with for the size convenience of the unit (my alternative was going to be a DacPort LX and O2 combo, but the size of the whole kit was going to become an issue (and i needed to build a new Euro power supply for the O2)).  I would never consider using it as a desktop dac/amp though, using the little volume control would get old fast (and I have more than enough desktop amps(or at least more than enough in process of being built). 
 
Of course, going with the Magni2 means you need to buy the Modi to go with it, but you end up with a much more capable desktop system than what the Fulla can provide (consider the output amp stage in the Magni, where else can you get a discrete output stage for $99).   

 

[370lbgorilla]

  Carefully wrap some gaffers tape around it once you have the volume set where you want it. Then it assuredly won't move. Use real gaffers tape, not some other cheap tape. The good stuff won't leave a residue when removed. Don't leave a given piece of tape on for more than a day or it too may deteriorate and leave residue.


 

 
So then he would have to remove the tape and re-apply it everytime he wants to adjust the volume level?  This seems impractical.
 
Allen

 

[MrSlim]

 
my understanding is that cable will allow me to connect source (android phone), power and the fulla

You will also need a Micro to Mini USB cable/adapter, since Fulla has a mini USB input. 
YMMV re android phones, since not all support USB host mode (ie, Nexus 4 doesnt..). 
I was able to get it working using a powered usb hub on my Samsung Tab 4 8.0, and want to try with a portable battery (ala your idea), but likely need a Y cable something like what you are suggesting.. (although all my music is on a USB Hard drive which would need the hub to power it regardless.. )

 

[Wildcatsare1]

Don't know how you are gonna do that a phone or tablet won't power it and I lso assume it would get uncomfortably warm

Where I am, a very warm Fulla in your pocket would be a wonderful thing, given the present wind chill!!!

 

[UprightMan]

  You will also need a Micro to Mini USB cable/adapter, since Fulla has a mini USB input. 
 

both male!?  share link if easy please to be sure I get right one

 

[NZtechfreak]

my understanding is that cable will allow me to connect source (android phone), power and the fulla

The Fulla didn't work with my OTG Y-Cable.

 

[MrSlim]

Although the specific cable mentioned here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/615548/do-the-dacport-and-the-dacport-lx-really-sound-different/30#post_9292387  does not seem to be available anymore, there may be some clues regarding how to get a Y cable to work, with respect to preventing the data source device from having an issue with the current draw from the fulla, which would then be powered by a battery.. 

 

[MrSlim]

  both male!?  share link if easy please to be sure I get right one

Actually, I might be wrong about that.  When initally looking at the middle photo on this page: http://www.amazon.ca/Importer520-Micro-Cable-Power-Galaxy/dp/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420651630&sr=8-1&keywords=Micro+USB+Host+OTG+Cable+with+USB+Power, I thought the Blue thing was the battery, but then I noticed that it says 16G on it,  so it may just be a USB stick.  
 
It might take some experimentation (I have a meter that I could use to figure out what connects to what, but not everyone does) 
 
A similar product: http://store.kegbot.org/products/usb-otg-and-power-y-cable suggests that the female micro connector is for power, so that the USB A female would actually be where the Fulla would connect.  

 

[MrSlim]

Has anyone else noticed that the volume knob and the USB connector are on a slight angle? The usb connector does not quite line up with the panel hole. I am able to insert it by pressing down with the cable connector on the bottom edge, not a big deal, just wondering..

Also, my experiences with headphones, OS's etc.. Worked out of the box with Windows 7 professional, and Linux Mint LMDE (Debian Based).

Sounds great with my K601's (and no RF noise pickup) and HD580's. Less usable volume range with my MEE A151 IEM's but not too bad (I'll probably build an attenuator for them)

I don't know if anyone mentioned this before, but the volume knob has only a 180 degree range, from about 7:30 to 1:30 (with unit on its side, USB to the left), not a biggie, but should be taken into account when people are talking about where on the clock face the volume control is being used.

 

[Jozurr]

Can someone please compare the fulla to the magni2/modi2 Sq wise? how much quality is lost with fulla compared to the stack?

 

[NZtechfreak]

  Although the specific cable mentioned here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/615548/do-the-dacport-and-the-dacport-lx-really-sound-different/30#post_9292387  does not seem to be available anymore, there may be some clues regarding how to get a Y cable to work, with respect to preventing the data source device from having an issue with the current draw from the fulla, which would then be powered by a battery.. 

 
Thanks for that, I will take another look. I probably need to check a couple more connection order permutations, as my Shield Tablet will charge with the Y-cable connected (as in the tablet charges, Nvidia added support for this in their Lollipop update), but only if the charging input is connected before the Y-cable is plugged into the tablet.

 

[bigro]

Can someone please compare the fulla to the magni2/modi2 Sq wise? how much quality is lost with fulla compared to the stack?

I Which Modi 2 are you asking about Standard or Uber? I got the Fulla and the Modi 2 Uber, As one would expect the Uber Is much more detailed and has a wider range. Also the Uber uses a wall wart so the power source is better as well. On the Magni, I cant help much there but you are looking at comparing a USB powered amp to one with a wall wart.
 
If you want something portable, the fulla is it but I would get lower impedance headphones. I am using ATH M50x's and Harman Kardon CL's and there is power to spare and they both sound very good.
 
If you are dead set on 600 ohm headphones that means you are looking for a possibly a very good quality set of cans. If this is not going to be a portable setup you will not be doing justice to your new cans by going fulla.
 
Magni 2 Non Uber would put out quite a bit more power than the fulla see below. this is all listed on the schiit website. (notice 600 ohm is not even listed for the fulla, probably because it will be like listening to a whisper).
 
Fulla
Maximum Power:
16 ohms: 400mW RMS per channel
32 ohms: 300mW RMS per channel
50 ohms: 220mW RMS per channel
300 ohms: 40mW RMS per channel
 
Magni 2
 
Maximum Power, 16 ohms: 1.8W RMS per channel
Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 1.2W RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 50 ohms: 1.0W RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 300 ohms: 260mW RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 600 ohms: 130mW RMS per channel

 
Hope this helps
 
 
 
On the Edges being sharp if its that bothersome and you don't care about the Warranty. Take the cover/housing off ( 3 screws) mask the face so you don't ruin the brushed finish and get sandpaper upward of 1000 grit or better yet an very fine emery board that ladies use for their nails and carefully get all sharp corners lightly with the paper or emery board. clean up the housing with a damp rag and compressed air (little cans from bestbuy for keyboards will do fine) and let dry completely before you reassemble. I will probably do it in a few months after I'm am pretty sure i wont mind voiding my warranty. DO NOT do this with out dissembling , little metal shaving will get in to the board and probably smoke the fulla, then you will be fulla smoking schiit. And this WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. Ohh yeah Don't Blame me if you don't do it right.
 
Also the Knob gets easier to turn with use. It was a little stiff at first like other analog knobs but its getting progressively easier to turn. I saw some one recommend taping it in place with Gaffing tape. I would not do that personally but you could take the knob off and cut a very thin strip of gaffing tape and cover the outer edge of the knob so it acts like the thread on a car tire. No loss of functionality, it should give just enough grip and if done right will not look like a hack job. But as I said it gets easier to turn with use. I would give it some time first.
 

 

[Hunter220]

The Fulla has been working well my Sennheiser HD650s and Bowers and Wilkins P3 headphones.
 
Only had it for a few hours but looking to see how it will do over time.

 

[pavement714]

 
I Which Modi 2 are you asking about Standard or Uber? I got the Fulla and the Modi 2 Uber, As one would expect the Uber Is much more detailed and has a wider range. Also the Uber uses a wall wart so the power source is better as well. On the Magni, I cant help much there but you are looking at comparing a USB powered amp to one with a wall wart.
 
If you want something portable, the fulla is it but I would get lower impedance headphones. I am using ATH M50x's and Harman Kardon CL's and there is power to spare and they both sound very good.
 
If you are dead set on 600 ohm headphones that means you are looking for a possibly a very good quality set of cans. If this is not going to be a portable setup you will not be doing justice to your new cans by going fulla.
 
Magni 2 Non Uber would put out quite a bit more power than the fulla see below. this is all listed on the schiit website. (notice 600 ohm is not even listed for the fulla, probably because it will be like listening to a whisper).
 
Fulla
Maximum Power:
16 ohms: 400mW RMS per channel
32 ohms: 300mW RMS per channel
50 ohms: 220mW RMS per channel
300 ohms: 40mW RMS per channel
 
Magni 2
 
Maximum Power, 16 ohms: 1.8W RMS per channel
Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 1.2W RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 50 ohms: 1.0W RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 300 ohms: 260mW RMS per channel

Maximum Power, 600 ohms: 130mW RMS per channel

 
Hope this helps
 
 
 
On the Edges being sharp if its that bothersome and you don't care about the Warranty. Take the cover/housing off ( 3 screws) mask the face so you don't ruin the brushed finish and get sandpaper upward of 1000 grit or better yet an very fine emery board that ladies use for their nails and carefully get all sharp corners lightly with the paper or emery board. clean up the housing with a damp rag and compressed air (little cans from bestbuy for keyboards will do fine) and let dry completely before you reassemble. I will probably do it in a few months after I'm am pretty sure i wont mind voiding my warranty. DO NOT do this with out dissembling , little metal shaving will get in to the board and probably smoke the fulla, then you will be fulla smoking schiit. And this WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. Ohh yeah Don't Blame me if you don't do it right.
 
Also the Knob gets easier to turn with use. It was a little stiff at first like other analog knobs but its getting progressively easier to turn. I saw some one recommend taping it in place with Gaffing tape. I would not do that personally but you could take the knob off and cut a very thin strip of gaffing tape and cover the outer edge of the knob so it acts like the thread on a car tire. No loss of functionality, it should give just enough grip and if done right will not look like a hack job. But as I said it gets easier to turn with use. I would give it some time first.
 

I'm really curious as to how the Modi 2 is "much more detailed" considering they use the same chip. I'm a M50x user as well. Could you describe more how you noticed the differences between the two?

 

[bigro]

 
I'm really curious as to how the Modi 2 is "much more detailed" considering they use the same chip. I'm a M50x user as well. Could you describe more how you noticed the differences between the two?

Chevy pickups in the 90's had the same core engine as the corvette and Camaro fo that matter. a Silverado was no corvette or Camaro. even though one part is the same does not mean they are entirely equivalent. Its all about the implementation. I agree The original Modi and Standard Modi 2 probably will probably sound the same or very similar as there was very little changes done to the stanadrd modi 2. But the Uber went through a decent overhaul . In addition to  the "more sophisticate analog section" its not a traditional Modi under the hood.
 
from Jason on the Uber

  But Modi 2 Uber is a very different product than a Modi 2. Because it has optical and coaxial inputs, it needs a power supply. It can’t rely on the USB input alone for power.
 
Which gives it a big leg up on Modi 2 right there—a linear, low-noise, multiply regulated power supply. With a wall-wart, yeah, but a linear supply will beat USB power anyday.
 
It’s also different in another way: we have to switch, and manage, multiple inputs. Like all of our other DACs, Modi 2 Uber doesn’t use asynchronous sample rate conversion to make all the inputs a convenient single bit depth and sampling rate—which means we have to detect the bit depth and sampling rate, and change clock multiples on the fly for multiple inputs.

This means that Modi 2 Uber has a microprocessor. Which has to have its own firmware. So, when we’re producing Modi 2 Uber, we install 2 firmwares, one for the USB input, and one for the microprocessor clock management.
 
 

 
I get more detailed on my impressions over on the Modi 2 thread post 1311   http://www.head-fi.org/t/746128/the-schiitstorm-next-gen-magni-2-and-modi-2-family/1305.
I used the original Modi and now Modi 2 Uber on powered monitors so its a little different as opposed to cans. I cant discern sound stage much on cans but on 2ch there was a vast improvement. More detailed highs and slightly better lows was what stood out the most.
 
I am using an HK CL's and mostly an m50x myself with my fulla and it sounds great, schiit make great products but the fulla has a sound signature more like the original modi and I am Perfectly fine with that. The original modi is a very good sounding product. The Fulla is my first dedicated headphone gear. and its quite impressive. I am already planning to get a Vali for use with my Original Modi for when I am not allowed to play on the 2 CH setup because I tend to drown out the boss and she does not like that. The Original Modi is still very relevant and still has a place to sleep at night in my home.  I aspire to be a true Head Fi'er soon enough.