[artnoi]

OK So I found out that these could rumble in bass department, so I test this by generating 50Hz-100Hz 20-second at -6dBFS sine sweep in ocenaudio for Mac and now my pair got weird. I think the sub-bass is shaking my hair, or some exterior part of the headphone to make sound, because if I press the cups harder towards the ears and my head, both channel stops rumbling lol.

edited: add more detail

 

[Asahi Templar]

So finally got back home to my desktop setup. After 2 days of adapting my ear to the sound of the headphones, I still find them a bit hot in treble, that I don't use them for metal. The peak is at maybe at 9-10kHz? (I saw it from measurement posted somewhere in this thread, but not sure about the number, just guessed here)

Imaging is good, maybe because of a dip in certain frequency band to create the so called room effect (I find some instrument's presence much less than with other headphones say HD600 DT880 K7XX). Overall I'm very impressed with width and depth.

edited: bass feels a bit different than what I'm used to

But anyway I wonder if the benefits of EQing (with software) down the treble will outweigh its drawbacks i.e. signal degradation or phase problems etc.
I tried to EQ 10kHz band to -2dB and I think I like that sound better, i.e. they don't bite anymore. But since I'm not golden ear either or possess the knowledge about this so I'm really not. sure what to do right now

Should Ispend money on new pads, or use built-in EQ in my music player app (Decibel for OSX)

You would be hard pressed to notice any negative effects from EQ as long as you use a good program and you set it up properly (being sure to set the preamp correctly if you do additive EQ). I dont have a mac so I am not sure how good Decibel is but as long as its a parametric EQ it should be fine.

A lot of people who speak of negative effects from EQ are hearing clipping because they did not preamp correctly or they are using basic EQ rather than Parametric.

I have found EQ to be beneficial for every headphone I have ever tried and a great way to fix headphones that have slight issues.

I personally used the following EQ for the T60

Preamp -5DB

Peak Filter 21 hz +5DB Quality/Q .5

Peak FIlter 10,000hz -5DB Quality/Q 7


That boosts the subbass and cuts the 10k peak. The 10k peak is very narrow and sharp so you want to keep the Q factor high to avoid cutting the surrounding areas too much.

They are great for metal and anything guitar driven IMO once that 10k peak is cut.

 

[artnoi]

You would be hard pressed to notice any negative effects from EQ as long as you use a good program and you set it up properly (being sure to set the preamp correctly if you do additive EQ). I dont have a mac so I am not sure how good Decibel is but as long as its a parametric EQ it should be fine.

A lot of people who speak of negative effects from EQ are hearing clipping because they did not preamp correctly or they are using basic EQ rather than Parametric.

I have found EQ to be beneficial for every headphone I have ever tried and a great way to fix headphones that have slight issues.

I personally used the following EQ for the T60

Preamp -5DB

Peak Filter 21 hz +5DB Quality/Q .5

Peak FIlter 10,000hz -5DB Quality/Q 7


That boosts the subbass and cuts the 10k peak. The 10k peak is very narrow and sharp so you want to keep the Q factor high to avoid cutting the surrounding areas too much.

They are great for metal and anything guitar driven IMO once that 10k peak is cut.

Thank you for your EQ guide! If I don’t boost any freq (only suppressing 10kHz) then I do I still have to turn the pre-amp down to avoid clipping? Sorry for noob question, I’ve never EQed before.

May I ask if your pair rattles with bass frequency? Yesterday only the right driver was showing the rattling problem, but today both channels are affected. Only at loud levels does the rattle become audible, during music I hardly feel it except for certain tracks (I first detected it on Atom Heart Mother track from 2011 CD which is not brickwall-compressed)

 

[Asahi Templar]

Thank you for your EQ guide! If I don’t boost any freq (only suppressing 10kHz) then I do I still have to turn the pre-amp down to avoid clipping? Sorry for noob question, I’ve never EQed before.

May I ask if your pair rattles with bass frequency? Yesterday only the right driver was showing the rattling problem, but today both channels are affected. Only at loud levels does the rattle become audible, during music I hardly feel it except for certain tracks (I first detected it on Atom Heart Mother track from 2011 CD which is not brickwall-compressed)

If you are just doing subtractive EQ you dont need the preamp. So if you just want to cut the peak, you dont need the preamp at all.

Yeah unfortunately my new pair had that issue too, I have it sent into Fostex for repair at the moment to see if they can get it working.In my case it seemed like sweeping from around 35hz to 80 hz rapidily made it start doing it as well even at just louder than normal listening levels.

I think there is a bad batch of these out there. What is the serial number on yours? If you dont want to be specific something like in the 800s is fine. With my latest one it didnt happen at normal listening levels, but going loud (like 100db) caused the drivers to emit a buzzing sound.

The two bad ones I have had were around 860 (dont remember exactly but in the 800s) and someone else mentioned having the issue with one in the late 700s.

The first pair I had was in the late 100s and did not have the issue.

 

[kalibur]

I had one around the high 700s, with creaky cups and a buzz from the right driver at certain frequencies - returned them and awaiting for a replacement, hopefully its better this time.

 

[artnoi]

If you are just doing subtractive EQ you dont need the preamp. So if you just want to cut the peak, you dont need the preamp at all.

Yeah unfortunately my new pair had that issue too, I have it sent into Fostex for repair at the moment to see if they can get it working.In my case it seemed like sweeping from around 35hz to 80 hz rapidily made it start doing it as well even at just louder than normal listening levels.

I think there is a bad batch of these out there. What is the serial number on yours? If you dont want to be specific something like in the 800s is fine. With my latest one it didnt happen at normal listening levels, but going loud (like 100db) caused the drivers to emit a buzzing sound.

The two bad ones I have had were around 860 (dont remember exactly but in the 800s) and someone else mentioned having the issue with one in the late 700s.

The first pair I had was in the late 100s and did not have the issue.

Mine is from 90s batch, very early production unit lol. I’m contacting my store to see if they can do anything

 

[artnoi]

May I ask if there're any healthy Fostex T60RPs out there that don't rattle with loud bass? It really seems Fostex really sucks with QC on Tx0RP line.

If there is a pair out there that is healthy, I'll send mine in for replacement, if not (or the majority has defect) I guess I would do nothing since the rattle is inaudible during normal music playback (but still, I don't want a broken pair of $300 headphones). Anyway my HK retailer offers me replacement pair, but I have to pay for shipping.

 

[HungryPanda]

Mine are absolutely fine (second pair as first returned due to creaking)

 

[George Taylor]

I don't use mine all the time, but I've had no issues at all with them as far as build quality goes. Only reason I don't use them more is I wear glasses and the pads aren't great as far as that goes. And no, I don't want to get into changing the pads on them. I think they sound fine, and I've found pad rolling changes the sound.

 

[MetalChameau]

Hello,

I just got a pair of t60rp already used for 175 euros.

There is a big issue in the the very low frequencies in both drivers though. After some researsh I found that a lot of those Fostex headphones from the T**rp series had this issue. It's like a buzzing or rattling noise, and it only happens in songs where there is a lot of bass, like this one :



I had a similar issue on a dt770 at some point, but it wasn't even close to what is happening with the Fostex right now. There was a couple of hairs on the 770 driver so I removed them and now it's working just fine, even at very loud volumes, without any "bzzzz" noise.

The Fostex however has this issue in both driver, and the only way to "fix" it is to lower the volume a lot, which doesn't fix anything because then it's not loud enough.

I told the guy who sold me the Fostex that there was an issue in the low frequencies and that they sounded pretty bright and he told me that these headphones needed a lot of power otherwise they might have issues.

Since I don't really know that much about amps, could it be that my current amp doesn't have enough power to drive the T60rp and thus causing distortion in the very low frequencies ? I currently own a LakePeople G93, and it has more than enough power to drive my he500s on high gain at 60-70% on the volume knob. I'm pretty sure that I could blow the 500s if I were to increase the volume at 100% on some very loud songs, and yet the 500s aren't the easiest headphones to drive out there.

I knew that the Fostex would be hard to drive when I bought them, but I thought that my current amp would be at least decent enough to power them, since it can power a pair of 500s properly. I mean from what I've seen the g93 is pushing a little bit more than a watt at 50 ohms, so it's not like a smartphone in term of power.

I also tried to play with the screws a little bit but it didn't change anything. No matter what I do, I still get this horrible rattling noise. Does anyone have an idea about this thing ?

Thx a lot :c

 

[raoultrifan]

I guess it's from your headphones.

I'm curious about my T60RP...still waiting for my friend from CBG, UK to make a trip to IAS, RO to bring my cans. Somehow, I'm kinda sure I'll have same issue.

@kintsaki, wondering if the drivers need to be taken apart (dismantle the membrane parts as well) to fix this issue or it's enough to separate them from the wooden back-case with some foam/sponge to minimize the vibrations (sort of back-dumping)? I had this issue with my brand new HE-560 and I was unable to put back the affected driver (contact resistance between the two membranes was very high):https://www.head-fi.org/threads/hif...cussion-thread.711824/page-1339#post-14429325. Thank you!

 

[MetalChameau]

Huh...

Thx for your reply.
That's why I thought yeah.

At first I thought the rattling was caused because I was almost maxing out the volume on my amp on some songs, but even at lower volumes I still get the problem.
For instance on the song I just linked above I get this annoying rattling when the volume is only at 30% on the knob... While at the same time I can push my hd650 at 70% on the knob in high gain and it's still super clean, and it's insanely loud.

I'll try to contact Fostex since the headphones are still covered by the warranty.

This is so annoying.

 

[SonyFan121]

Huh...

Thx for your reply.
That's why I thought yeah.

At first I thought the rattling was caused because I was almost maxing out the volume on my amp on some songs, but even at lower volumes I still get the problem.
For instance on the song I just linked above I get this annoying rattling when the volume is only at 30% on the knob... While at the same time I can push my hd650 at 70% on the knob in high gain and it's still super clean, and it's insanely loud.

I'll try to contact Fostex since the headphones are still covered by the warranty.

This is so annoying.

Have you taken the earpads off to inspect/make sure there are no screws missing or slack on the plate that the drivers are attached to? that could cause vibration particularly at low frequencies. Or perhaps there may be holes/tears in the dampening material which (if I remember correctly - it's been a while since I owned a T50RP) are attached to the drivers, that could also cause vibration.

 

[MetalChameau]

Thanks for your answer.

Yeah, I already have.

I have played with the screws a little bit, but it doesn't change anything. I even took one of the driver out because I thought that the wood earcup might cause the issue, but nope, I still get the problem.

However covering the hole behind the driver almost totally fixes the issue. (This hole here, it's not my picture though : https://i.gyazo.com/8200d806f6a2b2dd394a05bb34feea7b.png )
But then obviously it sounds awful in the bass area since it's sealed and there is no longer air going through.

So whatever this issue is, it's from the driver itself.

But from what I've seen the issue might be this : a warped diaphragm. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/fos...nd-measurements.618659/page-132#post-12124146

I would take the driver appart to try to fix the issue myself but since it's still covered by the warranty I don't want to mess with it for now.

Now I'm trying to find a way to contact Fostex but I'm not even sure this is possible. On their website they say that you have to directly contact the distributor where you bought the headphones from...

Huh, If I had knew, I would have never bought this damn thing. This is so frustrating.

 

[Artyouth]

As my previous post said. You may check the wires inside cup. Sometimes the rattling may be caused by the vibration of these wires.