[arbiter76]

synthetic perfluoropolyether- (PFPE-) based oil, thickened with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) powder is krytox gpl 205 and I already have some. cheapest dry ptfe spray is ~$28. I can get some graphite powder for ~$13. graphite powder would probably be the best but that stuff can get messy real quick. also worried mineral wood oil would eat the plastic. not sure what the sliders have, bead blast or powder coat but if pc'ed might eat that.

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

So what do we think: would they have upped the driver matching and general QC for this special, limited run?

What I do like about the 50/50 is that it comes balanced from the factory. So there's no need to have it rewired to make it balanced like there is with the T50RP MK3. However, the dilemma becomes should I buy the 50/50 for $200 or look around for a used T60RP in nice shape for around the same price? I don't have a T50/50 on hand to compare to my T60RP, but I do have a T50RP MK3. And the T60RP is much nicer finished for about $130 more (if you purchase both brand new). I also prefer the sound of the T60RP which IME is more refined than the T50RP MK3 - IMHO both are an excellent value for the money. Happy Holidays!

 

[fidgeraldo]

What I do like about the 50/50 is that it comes balanced from the factory. So there's no need to have it rewired to make it balanced like there is with the T50RP MK3.

"The term "balanced" can refer to cables, signal path and circuitry of amps. It's important to know that balanced cables work better in some scenarios and single-ended cables in others. Headphones cannot be balanced because they are just speakers, but the connection to a balanced or single-ended amplifier can make all the difference (though it depends on the amplifier and the headphones!). Balanced adapters are always a bad idea for single-ended cables because they can damage your gear. Read on to find out all the whys and hows on balanced versus single-ended audio."

Can you please explain "Balanced" headphones?

I am still learning about technicalities, and what you wrote confuses me. Because I thought that balanced or unbalanced are cables/connections or amplifiers. Just as it's said above, I found it in reading Hi-Fi theory.

Cheers!

 

[ThEvil0nE]

What I do like about the 50/50 is that it comes balanced from the factory. So there's no need to have it rewired to make it balanced like there is with the T50RP MK3. However, the dilemma becomes should I buy the 50/50 for $200 or look around for a used T60RP in nice shape for around the same price? I don't have a T50/50 on hand to compare to my T60RP, but I do have a T50RP MK3. And the T60RP is much nicer finished for about $130 more (if you purchase both brand new). I also prefer the sound of the T60RP which IME is more refined than the T50RP MK3 - IMHO both are an excellent value for the money. Happy Holidays!

T5050 out of the box tuning is so much better.

 

[Bret Halford]

"The term "balanced" can refer to cables, signal path and circuitry of amps. It's important to know that balanced cables work better in some scenarios and single-ended cables in others. Headphones cannot be balanced because they are just speakers, but the connection to a balanced or single-ended amplifier can make all the difference (though it depends on the amplifier and the headphones!). Balanced adapters are always a bad idea for single-ended cables because they can damage your gear. Read on to find out all the whys and hows on balanced versus single-ended audio."

Can you please explain "Balanced" headphones?

I am still learning about technicalities, and what you wrote confuses me. Because I thought that balanced or unbalanced are cables/connections or amplifiers. Just as it's said above, I found it in reading Hi-Fi theory.

Cheers!

The headphone connector(s) must have a sufficient number of conductors to support balanced connection internally wired to each channel (2x for L and R each).

The T50 stock has a barrel connector that has 3 terminals (Tip, Ring, Stock) that are used for L, R and ground, in a single ended termination. In contrast, the T5050 and T60 use a TRRS barrel connector that supports L+/L- and R+/R- ... In the former case, if a balanced termination is desired, the headphone connector must be replaced and the drivers rewired accordingly.

Other 'Single Ended' headphones include the Beyer DT series (their Teslas come balanced) and the classic AKGs AFAIK.

Merry Christmas Fostex fam! If headphone Santa favors me, I'll have some T6050s before New Year's

 

[fidgeraldo]

Hmm...that is what I assumed. Thanks! But how can you know whether the connector is TRRS or TRS?

And how many of the headphones are single-ended or TRS? These you mentioned, or are there more?

And what about IEMs?

Cheers!

 

[Bret Halford]

Hmm...that is what I assumed. Thanks! But how can you know whether the connector is TRRS or TRS?

And how many of the headphones are single-ended or TRS? These you mentioned, or are there more?

And what about IEMs?

Cheers!

You can just count the number of rings on the connector. TRS has 2 bands separating the tip and the sleeve from the ring. TRRS will have 3 bands, separating tips and rings. TRRRS ("Pentaconn") has an additional ring explicitly for grounding shielding.

Some headphones use XLR connectors in which case you can just count pins.

 

[fidgeraldo]

You can just count the number of rings on the connector. TRS has 2 bands separating the tip and the sleeve from the ring. TRRS will have 3 bands, separating tips and rings. TRRRS ("Pentaconn") has an additional ring explicitly for grounding shielding.

Yes, that's easy to see. How can you know if headphones connector (you can't see the inside connector) is balanced or unbalanced?
You mentioned AKG. Is AKG K702 unbalanced?

Cheers!

 

[Bret Halford]

Yes, that's easy to see. How can you know if headphones connector (you can't see the inside connector) is balanced or unbalanced?
You mentioned AKG. Is AKG K702 unbalanced?

Cheers!

Just look at the stock cable connector for TRS since you can't really look into the barrel walls very well.

AKG K702 appears to use an XLR connector, you can just count the pins in the connector. 3 is SE, 4 will support balanced.

Another indicator is that usually (but not always, case in point T60/T5050) SE wired headphones will only have a cable connection on one side of the headphone... Headphones that have a split cable yoke with connection to each ear, rather than daisy chaining through the headband, will necessarily have balanced wiring to the transducers.

 

[fidgeraldo]

Just look at the stock cable connector for TRS since you can't really look into the barrel walls very well.

Thanks a lot! This is clearer to me right now.
It was a bit confusing, but you nailed it

Thanks!

Happy holidays!

 

[Philimon]

eBay tempted me with $10 coupon so I bought a used T50RP 50th Anniversary for $160shipped.

Im betting its best stock tuned T50RP variant ever if quality control is reliable... Comes with valuable amenities: leather support band, balanced wiring, and T60RP pads.

Besides the cups, the difference between T50RP50 and T60RP is the driver baffle vent foam. T60RP uses one of too light density which makes the headphone sound a little too bright (lacking some warmth). Based on pics and measurements, T50RP50 appears to use a denser baffle foam more akin to T20RP or T50RP. Other difference is that T50RP50 supposedly comes with stock internal cup damping but Ive not found pics yet. The only other Tx0RP variant that included internal cup damping was the short-lived T50RP diy mod kit sold by Fostex a couple years ago. The mod kit appeared to use the same parts as the prototype Massdrop T-X0 II which never made it to release but was reviewed by purr1n at SBAF.

Ill upload internal pics of T50RP50th asap.

Ive owned and modded lots* of Tx0RP variants and in some cases owned the same model multiple times… A good value and fun to tinker.

* TH500RP, T60RP, T50RPmk2 and mk3, Dekoni Blue, T20RPmk3 (still own), Open Alpha, T-X0, NAD RP18 (T50mk1 variant, still own), T30 (broke otherwise would still own as it was easily the best), and T10.

 

[dstarr3]

I used to have a Argon T50 that, while I loved the warmth, I ultimately found it too harsh and sibilance-prone up top. Would I have the same problems here?

 

[arbiter76]

I used to have a Argon T50 that, while I loved the warmth, I ultimately found it too harsh and sibilance-prone up top. Would I have the same problems here?

idk if this helps answer your question but it seems the TxxRP series are a little bright ootb, or at least the t50/50 of which I haven't heard and t60rp. it would seem most mods are to bring the brightness down a little and help the bass.

by asking would you have the same problems here I would presume you mean you are considering these for purchase. if you're willing to mod to your liking I would say no because everybody's ears are different and an earpad alone can change the signature. you may have to take apart and do some modding inside the cup if an earpad doesn't help. I was seriously considering the t50/50s but was unable to get for less than $300 due to where I live. I ended up going with the t60s and initially I thought they were bright but it seems limited to certain songs or music. I have some earpads on they way and hope those alone tone the upper end a little. but so far a slight eq tweak at the top end helps a lot.

I guess while I'm writing here at the moment may as well plug the t60s a bit. after reviewing some of the reviews after having some time with the t60s it would seem there's not a lot of emphasis on the natural tonality of the t60s. I am assuming it's the wood cups. it's kind of jarring to go back to IEMs, which while still sounding good don't sound as natural as my t60s and reason enough I would tell somebody to consider the t60s over any t50 variant. also the soundstage and imaging are very good and I assume above average but not top tier but very serviceable for games, especially fps. either way you go though I would consider the aftermarket money spent on pads and kits or materials to get inside the cups for best results.

 

[Philimon]

^ Highs a tad peaky, bass a bit bloomy.

^ VS HD600 for reference

^ front-side vent foam seems like standard issue T50RPmk3 foam but I dont know

^ Inside the cups we have quality control unlike other variants. And cup damping.

^ mod1 = removing stock driver damping paper aka saying goodbye to resale value

^ mod1 VS stock
mod1 is tradeoffs for sure. Will continue modding then share impressions later.

Teaser: here is my T20RP mod frequency response in comparison which uses the same pads.:

Spoiler: mehsurements, EARS

^ Id wager the reason for difference in frequency response is either due the difference in airflow of front-side vent foam (t20rp foam being less dense and allowing more airflow), and/or possibly difference in cup grill seal (t20rp is the "open" variant so less seal). This is assuming drivers are still the same old same old, will compare designations on drivers later...

 

[Philimon]

^ Highs a tad peaky, bass a bit bloomy.

^ stock is not for me

^ mod1 = removing stock driver damping paper aka saying goodbye to resale value

^ first impressions of mod1:
- nice tonally (per my tastes and preferred compromises / imo)
- bass roll off not bothersome but noticeable with electronic beats but worth the tradeoffs.
- bass can thump and satisfy despite roll off
- could probably sell this as "Philimon mod" for $400 per

[equipment: jot2, modi mb]