So just to confirm, it was a good change for the better? I've heard thicker pads ruin the sound and its limited to just a couple pads that are thin enough to keep the drivers close enough to preserve the original sound yet are still comfy enough to wear...? Were others wrong in saying that it needs thin pads such as the Shure 1540's?
Do you have the headphones yet? You might want to try the stock pads before worrying about replacements. I'm sure they create legitimate comfort problems for a significant number of people, but I think the complaints are a little overblown.
The cable it comes with is like this plasticy,10 foot long, monster 1/4 inch plug which isn't usable since I'm planning on using it for desk use, also the baby right-angled cable isn't going to work either for me so I'm replacing it It's pretty common for people to replace it, I always see it suggested as a bundle on Amazon with the Shure 1540 Pads as well. I'm just going with the usually suggested V-Moda cable and getting V-Moda's 1/8 to 1/4 inch adapter to fit my amp now.
It's your money, but I would suggest trying it before replacing it. You could put that money towards a nicer pair of pads or other accessory. The 1/4 plug is large, but no larger than my Grado 325 cable (or many other 1/4" plugs I've used), and it doesn't have the same memory problems or tabs on both ends like the 1/8" plug. If the length is too long you could leave part of it coiled, but that's your preference. Just a suggestion to try it first, but if you want to grab the V-Moda cable, it's a very good cable for the price and is definitely nicer than the two included ones.
What's wrong with the 1/4" cable that comes with the Fostex? The 1/8" cable it comes with isn't the greatest and won't fit well with some jacks, but the 1/4" seems fine and is a good length for home use.
The VModa is a nice cable though - flexible with no memory and a nice soft material.
Looks like ZMF just released some new Omni pads which puts the driver closer to your ear than the other ZMF pads. Brainwavz also released both angled and normal pads in lambskin(angled hybrids are also out). Maybe some of them will be a good fit for T50RPs.
I just got the T50RPmk3's today! They sound awesome!
But they need more POWAH!
I have the FiiO E10k and the portable A3, and ran them fully maxed on dials and gain on and the sound is good, but seems like it needs a bit more especially when compared to all my other headphones that do not need to be turned up to the max to sound loud enough.
Question, would the Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier add more power? I think it is 800mw. And I might get since I am on a budget of 100.00 bucks or so at the moment.
Also Initial first hour impression regarding all the pad discussion... I think I can live with the stock ones. (will update of course)
I do however plan to add some extra padding to the headband, I ordered two different types from ebay (see below) to try out or will make my own with memory foam and fabric. I can always use them on other headphones that I own as well.
I have the FiiO E10k and the portable A3, and ran them fully maxed on dials and gain on and the sound is good, but seems like it needs a bit more especially when compared to all my other headphones that do not need to be turned up to the max to sound loud enough.
Question, would the Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier add more power? I think it is 800mw. And I might get since I am on a budget of 100.00 bucks or so at the moment.
I had to return my t50rp due to a weird noise in the left driver at low frequencies. It was as if the driver was vibrating and touching the ear cup.
I used these headphones for 2 weeks and the noise got worse. I did the Frequency Response test from this website http://www.audiocheck.net/soundtests_headphones.php
The 10Hz to 200Hz test made the noise very obvious.
I got mine today and testing them... yep! Freaking rattle vibration on the left driver. Took apart to see if I could isolate the issue. Everything was tightened etc.. kept testing and found that if I press down in front of the driver grill, the bass rattle goes away. But it seems to come back, then I pull the cup from my ear and press down with my finger and it is gone... What I am a bit disgusted seriously. My first planars.
Did you return yours and get a replacement with no issues?
Any suggestions welcome.
I might see about maybe applying some sealing around the driver square to see if it stops the vibration.
I got mine today and testing them... yep! Freaking rattle vibration on the left driver. Took apart to see if I could isolate the issue. Everything was tightened etc.. kept testing and found that if I press down in front of the driver grill, the bass rattle goes away. But it seems to come back, then I pull the cup from my ear and press down with my finger and it is gone... What I am a bit disgusted seriously. My first planars.
Did you return yours and get a replacement with no issues?
Any suggestions welcome.
I might see about maybe applying some sealing around the driver square to see if it stops the vibration.
I returned my first pair and got a new one from a different place. Unfortunately, it has the same issue.
When I listen to "Almost Home" from "The Social Network" album or I play FPS games with explosions, I hear the vibrations very clearly.
I don't think this is a driver problem. I think the housing of the earcup is made of a cheap plastic that resonates at specific frequencies.
I noticed that tapping the ball joint in the earcup while they are on my head, temporarily fixes the problem. I wonder if there is something loose in that ball joint.
I had that problem as well, it disappeared after I placed acoustic foam in the cups and filled the driver baffle with newplast. For me it was more pronounced at around 40-50Hz. Im thinking it caused the driver housing to rattle, so most likely it was the newplast that fixed it for me.
Hey @MarcusHe how did you put the newplast on the driver? Any pics please? I noticed I am getting that vibration on the left driver but goes away momentarily if I push it in. So I might take fully apart and rescrew with newplast, to serve as a kind of extra gasket.
Thanks.
I've had multiple different rattles with my pair. Anything loose in the chambers can cause rattle, as well as if the baffle isn't thoroughly screwed on. Even the stock cables can cause rattle if they hit the walls, and if you use tape inside the cups attach them well. Moreover I think most rattle comes from the diaphgram film being loose on the outside of the driver housing.
Hey @MarcusHe how did you put the newplast on the driver? Any pics please? I noticed I am getting that vibration on the left driver but goes away momentarily if I push it in. So I might take fully apart and rescrew with newplast, to serve as a kind of extra gasket.
Thanks.
That thing you said about pressing the grill removing the sound? Literally works for me too. As did the other poster saying pressing/tapping on the ball joint gets rid of it for a moment. I have my entire cup lined with newplast, stuffed with cotton, all screws are good. If there is a solution for this, I will be a happy man.
Yes, you need to be a bit pantient, if you want to make nice and clean, and those cross wholes you can simply make with Philips screw driver. The more wholes the better, be obssessed
Edit: Also be careful, above picture is from mk2. On mk3 model don't put newplast on area where is felt stick(under are bass ports), only on surfaces , where is pure plastic.
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