[kintsaki]

My brother ask me if I can make something with his moded fostex that doesn’t sound well. So I collect all ideas that I found on this forum that I was thinking will work and I made this semi open version. I try to make this mod more present sounding and more stage deep so that’s why is with angled pads. Unfortunately my preferred velour pads made this headphones bass less for my brother .

With other type of pads bass was loose and goes on mids making muddy sound skin pads also make disaster with highs. Maybe some hybrid pads with different tunning . Graph show comparison this mod with velour pads and two cotton rings behind to T-X0 raw and T-X0 equalized to Harman target using oratory1990 eq preset on my rig.

This looks awesome and it must sound awesome.
I would appreciate it if you share more information
on how to build it.

 

[gumisb]

Building for me is quite easy because I have CNC and I’m able to make all parts by myself.
This is quite simple project just with few parts and with back of the driver with wood ring that allow headphones tunning with cosmetic cotton pads. My brother try this headphones with Schiit asgard 3 and it’s much better now with bas but still it’s not the beast in that matter. The most difficult part is wave guide inspired with @ZGLISZCZ design that I made partially manually from 6 mm depron(white part). It help a lot with harsh sounding of regular fostex. I experiment a lot with shape of the holes and trying to achieve exponential shape with limited length. second picture is raw part.

 

[kintsaki]

Building for me is quite easy because I have CNC and I’m able to make all parts by myself.
This is quite simple project just with few parts and with back of the driver with wood ring that allow headphones tunning with cosmetic cotton pads. My brother try this headphones with Schiit asgard 3 and it’s much better now with bas but still it’s not the beast in that matter. The most difficult part is wave guide inspired with @ZGLISZCZ design that I made partially manually from 6 mm depron(white part). It help a lot with harsh sounding of regular fostex. I experiment a lot with shape of the holes and trying to achieve exponential shape with limited length. second picture is raw part.

Thanks a lot for the explanation and pictures. I greatly appreciate and admire your work.

I have many ideas that I cannot implement because I do not have a CNC.

The wave guides must really improve the sound, and I am happy to hear that you have experimented and tried to get them right.
Are you running them balanced? I recently discovered that this makes a huge difference.

How did you make the silver arms that hold the cups from the side rather than the center?
It is not clear to me from the pictures whether you are using a MK II or a MK III baffle.

My goal is to build a dual T50RP driver unit with user adjustable size of the enclosures of the drivers and also
user adjustable from all the way open to all the way closed design.

Let me know if you would be interested in building parts like the ones you built for your brother,
for a fee for the materials and your labor and profit for me that will allow us to come up with a headpone
to suit a wide range of people preferences that will kill any genre of music you throw at it.

 

[gumisb]

Are you running them balanced? I recently discovered that this makes a huge difference.

I have only one amplifier with balanced connector and it’s to weak to drive them, so I made them just with double connector on ear cups and standard jack. Easily upgradable with cable change.


How did you make the silver arms that hold the cups from the side rather than the center?
It is not clear to me from the pictures whether you are using a MK II or a MK III baffle.

I made them from 5mm aluminum rod, that you can buy in builders market in 1 meter long size cheap and then I just fold them few times on pipes with different size

My goal is to build a dual T50RP driver unit with user adjustable size of the enclosures of the drivers and also
user adjustable from all the way open to all the way closed design.

Let me know if you would be interested in building parts like the ones you built for your brother,
for a fee for the materials and your labor and profit for me that will allow us to come up with a headpone
to suit a wide range of people preferences that will kill any genre of music you throw at it.

I can make parts it’s not a problem for me and if it’s just for prototyping, developing. With some standard materials it’s not even costly. If you have some drawings I can tell you if I can make it or not.

From my perspective open headphones are much better sounding, I try this fostex as closed with cups and different fill but that was disappointing.
I have massdrop T-X0 that I decided to keep closed and right now I work with them to increase headstage and make them more alive but without EQ they doesn’t sound well for me.
For open planars I decided to modify Takstar 580 because of better subbass and bas response but they are harder in other areas.

I'm open to any ideas and believe that developing is to try.

 

[kintsaki]

Sorry for the very late response...
I was tied up n a trip out of town....

I was very happy to see you are interested in trying and development.
I will send you a PM with my address etc and some information to get us started...

It will be a slow process due to my other obligations

 

[JCharlton96]

Hey guys,

I have a question which I'm hoping you can help me out with.

I am looking to get my hands on a mk3 to mod, which I will be pairing with the standard Drop 02 amp. I will be using it for work.

I understand that there are a number of viable mod techniques which I will be able to play with using the stock enclosure and baffle. @rendyG, @JKDJedi's seem a good start, as well as @kintsaki's suggestion to use fibreglass to alter the effective internal cup volume. I also know that I might be able to steal some techniques which I could experiment with from the Mk2 thread, though I understand that the theory is not directly transferrable since the baffle is different. I am particularly interested in implementing layered insulation of differing densities, which I read is rumoured to be the trick to the Argons.

I am also tossing up the possibility of printing off the MrSpeakers Open Alpha baffle and giving that a crack with the stock enclosure to make a Mad Dog Pro of sorts.


However, my question is in relation to the limitations posed by the Mk3 stock cups. I noticed that many t50rp threads ultimately result in the cups being replaced - whether this is with timber cups as above, or with a 3d printed plastic cup as in the open alpha dog project. I have also seen a number of comments in the Open Alpha thread which basically state that using the MrSpeakers cup design/ damping instructions has resulted in a better mod than their DIY efforts have been able to produce. I have full access to 3D printing through a handy younger brother than could make me most things I would want.

My question is - do you think that I would be better saving my time & money with trying various methods to modify with the stock cups? (and essentially taking the gamble that I can make them sound great to me) or do you think I would be better off going with something like an open alpha straight off the bat given that it's really easy for me to get my hands on parts?

Also, as an FYI - I am based in AUS, so getting my hands on many of the quite specific materials which are often suggested is sometimes impossible. This might result in expensive trial-and-error which I would love to avoid. Principally because these will just be used for work and so I don't want to splash a ridiculous amount of cash.

Thanks in advance - I know that 's a bit of a long winded question!


Cheers,

 

[sman789]

Hey guys,

I have a question which I'm hoping you can help me out with.

I am looking to get my hands on a mk3 to mod, which I will be pairing with the standard Drop 02 amp. I will be using it for work.

I understand that there are a number of viable mod techniques which I will be able to play with using the stock enclosure and baffle. @rendyG, @JKDJedi's seem a good start, as well as @kintsaki's suggestion to use fibreglass to alter the effective internal cup volume. I also know that I might be able to steal some techniques which I could experiment with from the Mk2 thread, though I understand that the theory is not directly transferrable since the baffle is different. I am particularly interested in implementing layered insulation of differing densities, which I read is rumoured to be the trick to the Argons.

I am also tossing up the possibility of printing off the MrSpeakers Open Alpha baffle and giving that a crack with the stock enclosure to make a Mad Dog Pro of sorts.


However, my question is in relation to the limitations posed by the Mk3 stock cups. I noticed that many t50rp threads ultimately result in the cups being replaced - whether this is with timber cups as above, or with a 3d printed plastic cup as in the open alpha dog project. I have also seen a number of comments in the Open Alpha thread which basically state that using the MrSpeakers cup design/ damping instructions has resulted in a better mod than their DIY efforts have been able to produce. I have full access to 3D printing through a handy younger brother than could make me most things I would want.

My question is - do you think that I would be better saving my time & money with trying various methods to modify with the stock cups? (and essentially taking the gamble that I can make them sound great to me) or do you think I would be better off going with something like an open alpha straight off the bat given that it's really easy for me to get my hands on parts?

Also, as an FYI - I am based in AUS, so getting my hands on many of the quite specific materials which are often suggested is sometimes impossible. This might result in expensive trial-and-error which I would love to avoid. Principally because these will just be used for work and so I don't want to splash a ridiculous amount of cash.

Thanks in advance - I know that 's a bit of a long winded question!


Cheers,

You can play with the stock cups with many different mods, all with materials totaling less than $20 US. I'd play with that in the beginning, you may find something you really like. I have some dampening clay, cotton and felt on my T40s and I'm quite happy.

-----------

On to my pads. I mounted my m1060 (THICC) pads onto the mk3s and they were a dream. Great comfort and meaty bass. After about 2 years of daily use, they've started disintegrating. I was lucky to find a genuine pair of T60 pads for cheap in the bay and they are nice. Extremely thin compared to the m1060 pads but just the right thickness to keep your ears off the drivers.