[PsilocybinCube]

I accidentally overbid and bought some tung sol 6080 tubes for more than they were worth (3 of them). Pm if interested in one and I will let a couple go for cheap ($20?).

 

[JKDJedi]

@JKDJedi - as promised - my Sylvania Gold Brand 6080s came in. Interesting as they have the same date/factory codes. But one of course is a dual mica, one is a triple mica, both with double halo top getters. The base bottoms differ as well, with a black and the other a gray base. Hopefully they will sound good. Will light these up soon.

Seems like Sylvania was going through a manufacturing change (of their 6080) that year.. what a find Slade! Philips took over in 81 so it wasn't their doing if these are dated in the 60's. I found a Sylvania 6080 with similar build without the GB label on it here.. (1965?)

And have an archived photo of mine of the Philips 6080(WB?) with a similar build the same.

(left, Philips. center, Sylvania GB. right, Mullard)



The color of the base changed with the added mica at the top. From memory the Philips was a lot warmer than the Sylvania to the right of it. Have yet to compare the Gold Brand to the Mullard.

 

[BackwardPawn]

I'm getting some weird sounds in the background of my RCA tubes that I don't hear at all in my Svetlana tubes. Best I can describe it, it sounds like I'm playing a scratchy record. Does this mean they're probably bad tubes? I bought them used to save a few dollars over NOS, but it wasn't the best decision. Seller said they tested like new.

 

[Paladin79]

I'm getting some weird sounds in the background of my RCA tubes that I don't hear at all in my Svetlana tubes. Best I can describe it, it sounds like I'm playing a scratchy record. Does this mean they're probably bad tubes? I bought them used to save a few dollars over NOS, but it wasn't the best decision. Seller said they tested like new.

If you have the ability I would at least reflow the solder in the pins and clean them thoroughly. If you want me to check one out and even replace the solder, I would be happy to help.

 

[BackwardPawn]

If you have the ability I would at least reflow the solder in the pins and clean them thoroughly. If you want me to check one out and even replace the solder, I would be happy to help.

Thanks for the offer. If I did it myself, do you just touch an iron to the pin briefly to melt the solder and let it harden again? I think I'll start by just cleaning the leads with something.

I should have some NOS Chatham 6AS7G tubes in a few days. I'll wait and see how those work out before doing anything drastic with these. Most people here seem to like those a better, anyway.

 

[Paladin79]

Thanks for the offer. If I did it myself, do you just touch an iron to the pin briefly to melt the solder and let it harden again? I think I'll start by just cleaning the leads with something.

I should have some NOS Chatham 6AS7G tubes in a few days. I'll wait and see how those work out before doing anything drastic with these. Most people here seem to like those a better, anyway.

You can heat the outside of the pin and even add a bit of new rosin core solder to the center if you like, it will help the old solder reflow.

 

[BackwardPawn]

You can heat the outside of the pin and even add a bit of new rosin core solder to the center if you like, it will help the old solder reflow.

I tried using a magic eraser, but it was turning that black so I used a scotch bright pad to get most of the grime off and then polished with magic eraser. Hopefully it was just getting a bad connection in the amp and I won't have to re-solder. I'll try it out in the morning.

 

[BackwardPawn]

I tried using a magic eraser, but it was turning that black so I used a scotch bright pad to get most of the grime off and then polished with magic eraser. Hopefully it was just getting a bad connection in the amp and I won't have to re-solder. I'll try it out in the morning.

I know its not quite morning, but I couldn't wait. Cleaning the tubes worked. They now sound about how I expected them too. Nice and warm, but clear.

 

[SHIMACM]

I killed the riddle of that Chatam 6as7g. He's actually a Chatham 6520.

Can anyone tell me if Chatham 6520 is better than Chatham / Tung-sol 6as7g?

 

[Paladin79]

I know its not quite morning, but I couldn't wait. Cleaning the tubes worked. They now sound about how I expected them too. Nice and warm, but clear.

Very good. I clean all tubes before they go into my tester, I generally use a brass bristled brush, cue tips, alcohol without lanolin, and tape head cleaner. (It leaves no residue)
I have most every type of Deoxit made but I only use that if the pins are slightly corroded.

If I re-solder the pins I will also use a rosin flux remover. I add liquid rosin inside each pin with a sharp pick. Rosin is what cleans the metal and allows the solder to adhere. I do not like the idea of reflowing Russian solder after it broke down in the first place so I remove as much of the old solder as I can and start fresh with silver solder. Most solder has a rosin core and that is great for fairly clean metal surfaces but even some of those need a drop of liquid rosin.

 

[SHIMACM]

Chatham 6as7g / 6520 has a copper rod, while mine does not. Has anyone heard of both types? Is there a difference in sound?

 

[bcowen]

I know its not quite morning, but I couldn't wait. Cleaning the tubes worked. They now sound about how I expected them too. Nice and warm, but clear.

Good to hear! Did you clean the tube socket(s) too? If the pins on the tube were cruddy, imagine how much of that crud was scraped off by inserting/removing the tube and has now taken up residence in the socket. Good old pipe cleaners moistened with some isopropyl alcohol (but *not* rubbing alcohol as @Paladin79 notes) work well for cleaning octal sockets assuming the socket itself is in good shape (ie: no corrosion or heavy oxidation).

https://www.amazon.com/BJ-Long-Regu...words=BJ+Pipe+Cleaners&qid=1604411927&sr=8-15

 

[gibosi]

I killed the riddle of that Chatam 6as7g. He's actually a Chatham 6520.

Can anyone tell me if Chatham 6520 is better than Chatham / Tung-sol 6as7g?

While I don't own a 6520, a fellow Head-Fier whose ears I trust wrote this about the 6520

"I'll have to respectfully disagree with those who say they don't sound any different than a regular TS 6AS7G. To my ears they do. Sweeter and more resolving, they are kind of a half-step between a TS 6AS7G and a GEC GAS7G IMO. I got rid of my regular 6AS7s after getting the 6520 because I couldn't get into listening to the regular version anymore. Now I just bounce between the 5998 and the 6520 depending on what headphone I'm using."

 

[BackwardPawn]

Very good. I clean all tubes before they go into my tester, I generally use a brass bristled brush, cue tips, alcohol without lanolin, and tape head cleaner. (It leaves no residue)
I have most every type of Deoxit made but I only use that if the pins are slightly corroded.

If I re-solder the pins I will also use a rosin flux remover. I add liquid rosin inside each pin with a sharp pick. Rosin is what cleans the metal and allows the solder to adhere. I do not like the idea of reflowing Russian solder after it broke down in the first place so I remove as much of the old solder as I can and start fresh with silver solder. Most solder has a rosin core and that is great for fairly clean metal surfaces but even some of those need a drop of liquid rosin.

I'll probably go back later with a brush and some ethanol or tape head cleaner since it'll resist corrosion, I was just trying to use what I've got for a good connection. My soldering iron broke several years back and I haven't really needed one, but I'll order one when I do.

 

[Paladin79]

I'll probably go back later with a brush and some ethanol or tape head cleaner since it'll resist corrosion, I was just trying to use what I've got for a good connection. My soldering iron broke several years back and I haven't really needed one, but I'll order one when I do.

For no more than you solder, something like this should be sufficient.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-Sol...407865?hash=item4223611a79:g:e94AAOSwpbhfmv0L

I ran my own business for years so I still have Weller soldering stations new in the box if one of mine ever fails. I tend to use Kester .020 silver bearing solder for use inside pins, the small diameter is great. SN62,PB36,AG02 SN being tin (stannum), PB being lead (plumbum), AG being silver (argentum).

Silver cuts down on corrosion.