[therremans]

For no more than you solder, something like this should be sufficient.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-Sol...407865?hash=item4223611a79:g:e94AAOSwpbhfmv0L

I ran my own business for years so I still have Weller soldering stations new in the box if one of mine ever fails. I tend to use Kester .020 silver bearing solder for use inside pins, the small diameter is great. SN62,PB36,AG02 SN being tin (stannum), PB being lead (plumbum), AG being silver (argentum).

Silver cuts down on corrosion.

Is a basic desoldering pump tool suffice for removal of old solder inside of pins?

 

[Ripper2860]

Chatham 6as7g / 6520 has a copper rod, while mine does not. Has anyone heard of both types? Is there a difference in sound?

So would that make mine a 6520 or a 6AS7G? (see below)

 

[Paladin79]

Is a basic desoldering pump tool suffice for removal of old solder inside of pins?

I use a Soldapullt myself, be careful of some of the knock offs, many do not work well.
https://www.all-spec.com/Product/DS...u_HEUjlurrPvMR4L_cq6sj-gi5DL6z0hoCPVsQAvD_BwE

It generally helps to use some fresh solder on the tips of the pins to get the solder flowing as you head the outside of the pins.

I only heat the outside portion of the pins to help with clean up later and I rotate the tubes in a panavise. This shows how I put a drop of liquid rosin inside each pin after solder removal. I can then slide the new solder inside the pin before I begin heating the outside to insure I have good coverage on the inside. I tend to keep the tube fairly flat when doing the actual soldering so the solder does not flow any farther than inside the pin itself.

 

[JKDJedi]

For no more than you solder, something like this should be sufficient.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-Sol...407865?hash=item4223611a79:g:e94AAOSwpbhfmv0L

I ran my own business for years so I still have Weller soldering stations new in the box if one of mine ever fails. I tend to use Kester .020 silver bearing solder for use inside pins, the small diameter is great. SN62,PB36,AG02 SN being tin (stannum), PB being lead (plumbum), AG being silver (argentum).

Silver cuts down on corrosion.

this any good?

 

[Paladin79]

this any good?

I doubt it but if that is your hand holding it, you can always give it a try unless you are in a store right now lol. I have not tried many other brands but I know Jason at Schiit said he tried a few knockoffs of the Soldapullt and they were junk. The smaller ones just do not seem to have the power of the larger types.

 

[JKDJedi]

I doubt it but if that is your hand holding it, you can always give it a try unless you are in a store right now lol. I have not tried many other brands but I know Jason at Schiit said he tried a few knockoffs of the Soldapullt and they were junk. The smaller ones just do not seem to have the power of the larger types.

I haven't tried it yet, mixed reviews on YouTube, some like the one handed use , others either hated or loved the tip.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZlzOFbP4R4BH3

 

[SHIMACM]

While I don't own a 6520, a fellow Head-Fier whose ears I trust wrote this about the 6520

"I'll have to respectfully disagree with those who say they don't sound any different than a regular TS 6AS7G. To my ears they do. Sweeter and more resolving, they are kind of a half-step between a TS 6AS7G and a GEC GAS7G IMO. I got rid of my regular 6AS7s after getting the 6520 because I couldn't get into listening to the regular version anymore. Now I just bounce between the 5998 and the 6520 depending on what headphone I'm using."

Interesting that comment. It makes me want a 6520 in my collection.

 

[SHIMACM]

So would that make mine a 6520 or a 6AS7G? (see below)

I believe it is a 6520 then.

 

[gibosi]

I believe it is a 6520 then.

A "true" 6520 looks identical to a regular TS 6AS7G. However, as we have seen here recently, sometimes, for reasons unknown, 5998s labeled as 6520 are out there.

 

[SHIMACM]

A "true" 6520 looks identical to a regular TS 6AS7G. However, as we have seen here recently, sometimes, for reasons unknown, 5998s labeled as 6520 are out there.

Based on these images it looks more like 6520. See that my Chatham 6as7g (first image) has a different internal structure.

 

[JKDJedi]

I believe it is a 6520 then.

I was gonna dispute this but looking at the data sheets... very close. interesting.

 

[SHIMACM]

In addition to the steel rod, mine has a chrome top and part of the plates is silver, while the others are made of copper, the top is transparent and the plate is of a single color.

 

[gibosi]

Based on these images it looks more like 6520. See that my Chatham 6as7g (first image) has a different internal structure.

Keep in mind that the construction of the TS/Chatham 6AS7G changed over the 20 some years of it's production. And therefore, you will need to control for the year of manufacture. That is, it is necessary to find a 6520 and a TS 6AS7G that were both manufactured at the same time to compare the construction.

 

[Ripper2860]

Chatham / Tung-Sol had at least 2 variations of the 6AS7G, as far as I know...

1) Top getter / flashing version with the chrome trim at the top and bottom of the plates, a top single D getter (from what I can see), and steel posts. (Right)

2) Bottom getter/flashing version with double D getter holders and copper posts. No chrome trim on top and bottom of the plates. (Left)

 

[CaptainFantastic]

Chatham / Tung-Sol had 2 variations of the 6AS7G, as far as I know...

1) a top getter / flashing version with the chrome trim at the top and bottom of the plates and a top single D getter (from what I can see) steel posts
2) a bottom getter/flashing version with double D with copper posts.

These are the ones I have - matched pair (and selling because I like the 5998s/6520s so much). They appear to have double-D getters at the top, but not easily visible.