Finally went electrostatic... here's my setup+impressions. Stax SR-5 and SRD-6
Jan 11, 2010 at 12:49 PM Post #46 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The SR-5N has the same drivers as the SR-X Mk3 which is essentially just the old SR-5 driver with a 2um diaphragm, same stator assembly.


Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for.
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 2:15 AM Post #47 of 63
By the way, one thing that really impressed me about the SRD-6 is that it apparently has a bypass for speakers. That is, there are speaker outs on the back, and there is a selector on the front for earspeakers or loudspeakers. You can see that in my 2nd pic. So presumably I can just hook speakers in and switch the knob when I feel like listening to them. Of course, a dedicated Stax amp like the SRM-1 would be better
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 4:19 AM Post #49 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Replacing the drivers with other Stax units or replacing the diaphragm from scratch? There is a lot more to the diaphragm then just stretched mylar on a metal ring and if you don't have the right tension, proper heat treating procedure from DuPont or the correct resistive coating (properly applied) then all you'll end up with is a lot of distortion.


I beg to differ. Many DIY electrostatic panels have been made with great results and relative ease. The hardest part is making a stretching jig which is much easier considering the size and scope of this project. I'll be using a good quality resistive coating and will be using heat to tension the mylar further.

Distortion products should only occur when mylar is too loose to keep a relatively uniform surface. It isn't rocket science by any means.
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 5:09 AM Post #51 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by LingLing1337 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
^Does seem like durability could be a concern though?


In what way? As long as the mylar isn't over tightened with heat applied then durability is okay for the most part. From there the biggest concern is time and dust that eats away at the mylar (which is a concern no matter what you do). The best thing you can do is not energize them when you're not using them . . . and invest in dust covers. When packing away for extended time seal them away in an airtight bag.

That's about the best advice I can give.
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 5:11 AM Post #52 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I beg to differ. Many DIY electrostatic panels have been made with great results and relative ease. The hardest part is making a stretching jig which is much easier considering the size and scope of this project. I'll be using a good quality resistive coating and will be using heat to tension the mylar further.

Distortion products should only occur when mylar is too loose to keep a relatively uniform surface. It isn't rocket science by any means.



I wish you luck. If you succeed maybe you could make some money rebuilding old Stax drivers. I have some burnt out SRX3 drivers that need new diaphragms. Making the high bias, pro's would be even better.
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 5:13 AM Post #53 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I beg to differ. Many DIY electrostatic panels have been made with great results and relative ease. The hardest part is making a stretching jig which is much easier considering the size and scope of this project. I'll be using a good quality resistive coating and will be using heat to tension the mylar further.

Distortion products should only occur when mylar is too loose to keep a relatively uniform surface. It isn't rocket science by any means.



I wish you luck. If you succeed maybe you could make some money rebuilding old Stax drivers. I have some burnt out SRX3 drivers that need new diaphragms. Making the high bias, pro's would be even better. If you could pull this off your fame might exceed Spritzer's!
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 5:17 AM Post #54 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by edstrelow /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I wish you luck. If you succeed maybe you could make some money rebuilding old Stax drivers. I have some burnt out SRX3 drivers that need new diaphragms. Making the high bias, pro's would be even better.


Yep, I'll definitely keep people updated. Worst case is it's a total flop and I've lost nothing (save materials which I can use in other projects . . . maybe
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Quote:

If you could pull this off your fame might exceed Spritzer's!


I don't know Spritzer all that well . . . what's he famous for?
 
Jan 20, 2010 at 5:28 AM Post #55 of 63
Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif
In what way? As long as the mylar isn't over tightened with heat applied then durability is okay for the most part. From there the biggest concern is time and dust that eats away at the mylar (which is a concern no matter what you do). The best thing you can do is not energize them when you're not using them . . . and invest in dust covers. When packing away for extended time seal them away in an airtight bag.

That's about the best advice I can give.



Thanks for the advice... I've been keeping my SR-5 energized 24/7 for a few days now
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Jun 4, 2010 at 2:34 PM Post #56 of 63
New guy going through some old threads here. Dust is mentioned as a threat several times. Would careful use of compressed air be an option or would that risk ruining the diaphragms?
If the trade goes well, I`ll end up with a set of SR-5 in a few days:)
 
Sep 8, 2013 at 12:40 PM Post #58 of 63
Just wanted to say that I've since snagged an SR-5 and SRD-6 combo myself, and I'm loving these.  Makes me want to consider a used stax lambda basic setup.  Anyone have any comments as to how big of an upgrade it would be?
 
Sep 8, 2013 at 1:24 PM Post #59 of 63
My friend's $400 stax setup completely blew my akg q701 setup out of the water. I built a 007mk2 setup for $2350 and money well spent for sure. Much more enjoyable compared to hd800s, t5p, he6, etc that I've owned.
 

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