[LingLing1337]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif Word of the wise: Consider checking the diaphragm (mylar) condition. These things are somewhere around forty years old, and they don't play well with age and dust often having holes that grow larger with use. Currently I need to finish my plans to refurb mine, though I'm having trouble finding one micron mylar so I may just end up with two.

Will do... how do I get to the diaphragm? Thanks.

 

[Shike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LingLing1337 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Will do... how do I get to the diaphragm? Thanks.

I warn you there's a small chance you can break a metal clip/lead (to a stator) and have to resolder it if you're not careful. If that's not an issue it is good to check the condition. As for how to go about it.

First carefully remove the earpads as not to rip them.

Mark with tape or something which way is front for the grill.

Remove grill.

Take a photo or a note of how the three color coded cables are hooked.

The mylar you now see on the element is the dust cover . . . worked good for forty years but probably not good enough.

Disconnect the color coded cables.

Remove driver element.

Use a small flathead to remove the four small screws around the element, making sure that the top and bottom pieces don't separate uncontrolled (can snap the metal leading to top stator under dust cover).

OPTIONAL: If you're paranoid about the lead you can desolder it and solder it back on after you separate the pieces. One accidentally broke on me because I wasn't careful and let the bottom fall out. The other with good handling has been able to bend to accommodate access from my experience, but that's up for you to decide.

CAREFULLY separate the two pieces (hopefully not breaking the stator lead) till you see a copper ring with mylar in it, slide it out and inspect. If it has holes in it its days are numbered as they'll slowly reduce tension till the diaphragm hits the stator. If this is the case you'll need to find some mylar, a conductive coating, a rigid board (to tension it), acetone to separate the rings (nail polish remover will work), DAP glue works well with mylar, possibly a hair drier to help get it a little more taught with shrinking.

If you need a source for the mylar and coating you can PM me. I actually found some 1.4um (probably 1.35 rounded) mylar cheap. I don't want to post a link or leak it out till I've grabbed a roll or two myself though since crazy stat/magneplanar builders wipe shops out of low micron stuff fast from experience. It's extremely hard to find the low stuff

Of course I doubt you'd have a problem finding stock 5 um if you really like the sound, so that's an option too.


Obviously I offer no guarantee and accept no liability if this goes wrong for you.

 

[krmathis]

Nice Stax rig you got there. Welcome to the team!

I have not heard that exact combo, but knowing its sibling the SR-X/MK3 I am quite sure it is a nice taste of what electrostatics can bring.

Enjoy!

 

[LingLing1337]

Shike, that sounds like a bit more than what I'd want to do myself... Anyway, what would be the benefit of installing the thinner 1.35um mylar?

 

[EYEdROP]

This is a sharp looking setup. Enjoy your new toys!

I would love to hear STAX one of these days....

 

[Shike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by LingLing1337 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Shike, that sounds like a bit more than what I'd want to do myself...

Just use them for the time then. If they start acting up though at least you'll have an idea of what's probably wrong.

Quote:

Anyway, what would be the benefit of installing the thinner 1.35um mylar?

Improved transients and presumably a different sound signature associated with higher-end. For example the SR-X used a 3um diaphragm instead. Most of the top-end Stax use 1.35um now.

It's pretty much a matter of if I'm going to repair them I might as well go all out.

 

[charliex]

I was the one who traded my SR-5/SRD-6 setup to LingLing - - - however, I would NOT let them slip out of my hands until I had a replacement set in the mail - that's how much I love them and it attests to their remarkable sound.

 

[LingLing1337]

Yes indeed.

I know this is completely subjective, but these are absolutely more emotional phones to me... in pieces that have a definite tone, sadness, joy, etc, I can really feel that more. It feels like I'm enveloped in the music, rather than being fed music through headphones.

 

[Silenced]

Wait.... At one point Stax made such attractive headphones??? It's like their design team is moving backwards (in aesthetic terms.

 

[dcpoor]

lambdas and sigmas are awesome looking.

 

[LingLing1337]

I didn't have any idea what the SR-5 looked like until they got here... I was surprised that they are such an aesthetically pleasing pair of earspeakers!

 

[Currawong]

Congrats on the rig. My SR-5NB rig is still one of the most satisfying to use that I have. In the scheme of things, they are a bit mid-forward, but have that nice, effortless presentation that Stax are known for, if lacking the punch of regular headphones. The vintage Stax can be much better bargains than regular headphones too.

 

[scompton]

Every time I see a post about stats being over $1000, I point out how good a rig like this can sound for less $200. I paid $125 for my SR-Gammas and I haven't been tempted to upgrade. The price/performance ratio of normal bias Stax is among the best in head-fi, IMO.

 

[krmathis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silenced /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wait.... At one point Stax made such attractive headphones??? It's like their design team is moving backwards (in aesthetic terms.

New company, new design team...
The original Stax company, which made the SR-5 and lots more, went bankrupt in 1995.

 

[paaj]

But they already started the 'ugly' Lambda series before going bankrupt no? I actually like the Lambda look though