Hmm, will need to really test that out but as far as I remember it's getting warm like don't know shoes from inside after wearing but nothing compared to my former Shanling M8 DAP which is using some graphene heat sink patent to distribute all the heat to the chassis.
I recognize though that the OOR warmth is also felt on the volume wheel a bit but it didn't disturb me so far - maybe a tradeoff due to the small footprint...
now just reading correctly that you meant the HYPSOS and not the OOR.
Will need to check that but HYPSOS never appeared warm to the touch when changing voltage in-between at least when touching its button, as OOR is standing on top I am usually not touching the top of it anyway
I would suggest Oor Hypsos owners to site the Hypsos to the left and the Oor amp to the right.
This moves the head unit away from the toroidal transformer which should give a small improvement on sound.
Secondly it’s already been mentioned but the units should be left on and not cycled on & off. (True of any gear).
Stacking should be avoided. My reason for stating this is I feel some people may not understand or think it makes any difference whatsoever. Having done some careful listening with power supply and head unit with my Naim gear I have noticed improvements using this method. Naim call it Brain (head units) and Braun (power amps or power supply)
So running for some hours OOR is shoe-from-inside-warm, Hypsos is feeling like it got warmth from Oor but otherwise hardly handwarm only at the middle of the surface running Hypsos with 24V
So running for some hours OOR is shoe-from-inside-warm, Hypsos is feeling like it got warmth from Oor but otherwise hardly handwarm only at the middle of the surface running Hypsos with 24V
Hypsos will give out more heat as it gives out more power. I would keep it in an open space if possible so it can dissipate it easily. When I was testing with the GT it was getting fairly warm, not as hot as my Soloist 3xp you could fry eggs on xD also check out the bottom of the GT after some time, mine had some spots that got fairly hot as well. Nothing I would worry about tho.
Btw. I'm investing in power conditioning after the chat we had
1. I have relatively rubbish power in the flat where I am now. When I set Hypsos to 22v it sometimes drops to 21.9v ... when you turn Oor off, wait a bit and then try to turn it on it won't power on until it gets at least 22v, so if Hypsos stays on 21.9v Oor won't power on. I'm pretty sure this is because my power lines are rubbish, I am investing in power conditioning at the moment. Simple fix is to set Hypsos to 22.1, then it never goes below at least at my place.
2. TC seem to sound a bit smoother on medium gain ... this is only my impression. This set is a struggle to get smooth but detailed, I swear lol it's a very fine line.
I 2nd the impression of a tad smoother sound on Medium Gain for both TC and Susvara.
Am mostly on High Gain though for the full experience
Interesting to read the difference of 0.1V, cause I have the same behavior.
If I set Hypsos to 24V, I am getting usually 23.9V and need to specify 24.1V in order to get 24V at the end.
I was wondering if it is related to my better higher diameter after sales power cable, haven't compared the stock cable yet
Just tested Oor without Hypsos, it becomes a lot more soft, loses a lot of the stage, extension and micro dynamic. Pretty much it becomes half of the amp that it is with Hypsos and loses it's main trademark, ultra clean, precise and holographic presentation. I would say not worth it if you're not planning to get Hypsos for it at some point. Also no idea about Stealth or A90 pairing, just talking Hypsos and Oor in isloation.
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