[MasterHead]

I'm in Europe, maybe units shipped to the US have still a different logo... We have to email Mr Feliks and ask. He's a very nice guy and always willing to help

 

[jokervn91]

I'm in Europe, maybe units shipped to the US have still a different logo... We have to email Mr Feliks and ask. He's a very nice guy and always willing to help

Thanks. I am just curious but not sure if I should go the extra miles for that lol.

Side question, do you unplug your headphone before turning the amp on and off? I usually leave it in my SS amp but not sure if that holds true with OTL amp.

 

[MasterHead]

Thanks. I am just curious but not sure if I should go the extra miles for that lol.

Side question, do you unplug your headphone before turning the amp on and off? I usually leave it in my SS amp but not sure if that holds true with OTL amp.

I usually unplug. But when I left them, everything was fine.

I think more important is, if you have several pairs of headphones, to remember to turn the volume to safe position. I've been already "shockingly surprised" a few times when I plugged in other headphones.
Now I always remember...

 

[mordy]

Previous owner isnt OG owner also so no dice lol. Either way I think @mordy said mk1 works fine with no problems so I guess I should just go with the cheapest one I can find?

I only had experience with Elise MKI but from everything I read the sound remained similar in later models. The only thing to watch out for in the early Elises is overheating the internals - I think the ventilation was improved in later models. You can avoid problems by using socket savers (as insulators) and inexpensive USB powered fans to keep the chassis cool.

 

[mordy]

I usually unplug. But when I left them, everything was fine.

I think more important is, if you have several pairs of headphones, to remember to turn the volume to safe position. I've been already "shockingly surprised" a few times when I plugged in other headphones.
Now I always remember...

Always good to keep the volume down when plugging in headphones. The main rule is: Every time you change tubes, plug in an inexpensive set of headphones first for a couple of minutes. If there are nasty pops you won't ruin an expensive headphone driver...

 

[MasterHead]

Always good to keep the volume down when plugging in headphones. The main rule is: Every time you change tubes, plug in an inexpensive set of headphones first for a couple of minutes. If there are nasty pops you won't ruin an expensive headphone driver...

Thank you for the tips.
The specification states that changing the tubes requires FULL disconnection from the power supply for 15 minutes. I'm not sure how to understand that. Is the switch in OFF position a full cut-off? Or should I remove the power cord?

 

[Deleeh]

Thank you for the tips.
The specification states that changing the tubes requires FULL disconnection from the power supply for 15 minutes. I'm not sure how to understand that. Is the switch in OFF position a full cut-off? Or should I remove the power cord?

Hello,

No, you misunderstand.
You switch on the Elise / Euforia normally, without plugging in headphones, while the volume pot is turned down.

After the warm-up, you plug in the headphones and listen to your music.

When you are finished, turn the volume all the way down and unplug the headphones.
Then switch off the Elise/Euforia as normal.

The only thing you might want to consider is what to do if you leave the Elise/Euforia plugged into the mains.
If you take it off the mains during a thunderstorm.
Ideally, you should use a mains plug with a switch, so you don't always have to remember to switch it off when you are out of the house.
When you have shut down your system, just flip the switch and forget about the rest.

 

[MasterHead]

Hello,

No, you misunderstand.
You switch on the Elise / Euforia normally, without plugging in headphones, while the volume pot is turned down.

After the warm-up, you plug in the headphones and listen to your music.

When you are finished, turn the volume all the way down and unplug the headphones.
Then switch off the Elise/Euforia as normal.

The only thing you might want to consider is what to do if you leave the Elise/Euforia plugged into the mains.
If you take it off the mains during a thunderstorm.
Ideally, you should use a mains plug with a switch, so you don't always have to remember to switch it off when you are out of the house.
When you have shut down your system, just flip the switch and forget about the rest.

I understood everything correctly.

I was asking about something else that appears in the spec. What does "full disconnection" mean. This is a requirement to change tubes. So that the amplifier can set Bias automatically.
I just wanted to make sure. I never pull out the cable when changing tubes to different ones. I only wait 15 minutes after turning it off. I guess that's enough.

 

[ThanatosVI]

Thank you for the tips.
The specification states that changing the tubes requires FULL disconnection from the power supply for 15 minutes. I'm not sure how to understand that. Is the switch in OFF position a full cut-off? Or should I remove the power cord?

Switch in off Position is sufficient to swap tubes, you don't need to disconnect the power cord
However still wait a few minutes for the tubes to cooldown and capacitors to unload

 

[Deleeh]

oh, that's what you meant.

No, you can change the tubes when the Elise is switched off.
As @ThanatosVI has described.

The fact that you should disconnect it from the mains is more to be on the safe side because of the residual charge, which can sometimes still be hidden somewhere, so as not to damage the tubes.
That is all.

Stick to Thanatos description - that's quite enough.
The tubes are warm to hot without any problem.
You have to wait anyway.
The other thing is that you should not change tubes when they are warm because the glue on the base can come off.

 

[mordy]

oh, that's what you meant.

No, you can change the tubes when the Elise is switched off.
As @ThanatosVI has described.

The fact that you should disconnect it from the mains is more to be on the safe side because of the residual charge, which can sometimes still be hidden somewhere, so as not to damage the tubes.
That is all.

Stick to Thanatos description - that's quite enough.
The tubes are warm to hot without any problem.
You have to wait anyway.
The other thing is that you should not change tubes when they are warm because the glue on the base can come off.

I have not heard that the glue is affected if you change the tube while warm. From experience I have learnt that sometimes older tubes are prone to loose bases - I assume that the glue goes through changes as it ages. Two - three drops of crazy glue between the glass and the tube (letting it dry for a day) easily fixes a loose base.
As a matter of fact, I apply the crazy glue before using very old tubes (base and top cap if present) to prevent surprises.

 

[jokervn91]

I only had experience with Elise MKI but from everything I read the sound remained similar in later models. The only thing to watch out for in the early Elises is overheating the internals - I think the ventilation was improved in later models. You can avoid problems by using socket savers (as insulators) and inexpensive USB powered fans to keep the chassis cool.

Thanks for the input. Without opening the chassis I think there's isn't a clear indication of which models of my Elise anw. I am considering adding a laptop cooling pad or sth similar below for venting but so far I dont think its heated that much.

 

[Koren]

I would like to ask those who have been dealing with tube amplifiers for a long time, have had many tubes in their hands: can it happen that a vacuum tube explodes/bursts? if so when will this happen? as a result of what? my other important question is that it can happen with a svetlana 6n13s tube (or even another type) that if you run your finger along the top of the tube in the middle, it is not completely smooth, but bumpy/bumpy? because my right rear tube is like this..(6n13s) . can it be faulty at the factory? I noticed it before yesterday, since then the amplifier has been running for 8 hours, everything is fine in terms of sound. the tube has about 80-100 hours, brand new .. the top of the left 6n13s is completely smooth. should I be afraid of something? I really want a professional answer from someone who really understands, thank you.

 

[mordy]

I would like to ask those who have been dealing with tube amplifiers for a long time, have had many tubes in their hands: can it happen that a vacuum tube explodes/bursts? if so when will this happen? as a result of what? my other important question is that it can happen with a svetlana 6n13s tube (or even another type) that if you run your finger along the top of the tube in the middle, it is not completely smooth, but bumpy/bumpy? because my right rear tube is like this..(6n13s) . can it be faulty at the factory? I noticed it before yesterday, since then the amplifier has been running for 8 hours, everything is fine in terms of sound. the tube has about 80-100 hours, brand new .. the top of the left 6n13s is completely smooth. should I be afraid of something? I really want a professional answer from someone who really understands, thank you.

I can’t claim that I understand everything, but I have never heard of a vacuum tube exploding or bursting when in use.
The only time it breaks into pieces is if you drop it.
Wouldn’t worry if the glass surface isn’t completely smooth; as long as it functions properly.
If a tube fails it could be a small crack in the glass and the tube loses the vacuum (silvery coating turning white), or something failing inside the tube, sometimes resulting in arcing or a bright flash.
The biggest worry when a tube fails is a large pop that could damage a headphone driver.
And if it isn’t a glamorous death, it is just an anonymous death, and the tube won’t turn on lol. (Just make sure to clean the tube pins carefully before you pronounce the tube dead…)

 

[Koren]

So is it physically impossible for a vacuum tube to explode during use? I'll be honest, I'm afraid of this, because the amplifier is half a meter away from me, almost at head height, and I don't want to expose myself to an accident that one of the pipes explodes and the glass cuts my face.