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Jul 18, 2014 at 10:54 PM Post #7,096 of 14,084
So i was burning in my Dx90 last night and the battery was flat. I've been charging my player for over 2 hours and it refuses to boot up. Can someone please help or is my player dead?

So with it plugged in to the usb, for charging, it won't boot up? 
 
Does the player indicate that it is charging? A green round circle on the screen showing it charging. Maybe try another USB cable. 
 
Jul 18, 2014 at 11:02 PM Post #7,098 of 14,084
Yes the screen refuses to light up even when I keep holding the power button.

But does it show that it is charging? Ok, if the screen won't show that have you tried a different USB cable and different USB port? Try turning it on with no USB plugged in if you haven't tried that. 
 
Jul 18, 2014 at 11:12 PM Post #7,099 of 14,084
First, I'd try a 2A charger from a tablet etc. If nothing else works, I'd try plugging it into a computer with the forward button held down. Remove it and try turning it on again a couple times. If it comes on, do a factory reset while plugged back into a charger. These are guesses but sometimes changing to things like programming mode can wake things up.
 
Jul 18, 2014 at 11:17 PM Post #7,100 of 14,084
I was using a iPhone charger initially and now trying the iPad charger. Is there any button to press to hard reset it? Or should I just keep it plug in? But it shouldn't take so long to charge right? Pretty bummed because I just bought it yesterday and this has to happen. Hoping it's not dead.
 
Jul 19, 2014 at 12:07 AM Post #7,102 of 14,084
That has happened to me a few times. Had to take the battery out and put it back in before it would boot
 
Jul 19, 2014 at 12:18 AM Post #7,103 of 14,084
Nothing like experience.
wink_face.gif

 
Jul 19, 2014 at 1:02 AM Post #7,104 of 14,084
  Most relays are sealed in an inert gas so oxidation would be eliminated. It would be possible for one to lose the seal or maybe it never had one.  Having looked at the board, iBasso used relays from Japan and I would imagine, good ones. 
 
I have used contact enhancers, starting with Tweak years ago. Tweak would build up and harden, what a horrible item it was. On other, most people use too much as all you need is a thin film and nothing more, even a wipe on and wipe off is better than leaving too much on. I also find that these have a limited life, of a week or so. I prefer to use alcohol and clean the contact points and go from there. I have even used very expensive micro silver enhancer. This to my ear, did nothing and did not improve the signal path. Caig for batteries does show an improvement and works over time but for some reason, in my experience, less so in audio, again, over time. This is based on many years of experimentation, reading and long term use. 

I've had bad experiences with relays, and would prefer not having them in the signal path.  But we don't have a choice if they are in the design.    All relays have an inherent weakness, that the actual contact area is very small, and under low pressure.  Add oxidation if there is contamination during manufacturing, or afterwards, or a loss of the inert gas/seal.  Or arcing, if there is current.    I consider the signal path much simpler, and "purer", if we could avoid relays.
 
There is a big weakness with relays in the output path of an amp to block the turn on "thump" from the speakers.  These may not have spark suppression, and the small contact area and multiple extra connection points degrade the signal path.  And these are high current relays which are not sealed.
 
Caig Pro Gold and Cramolin, I found does wonders on volume pots.  Get a bit into the wiper part, and it quietens a crackly pot permanently.  None of the other contact cleaners I have tried was able to do this. 
 
 I also routinely use it on pcb edge connectors, RAM memory, etc.  Things tend to run much more trouble free, when used regularly.  And as Jamato8 mentioned, it works great on battery contacts.
 
I haven't done any long term comparisons for audio purposes, though.  I found the overall results so good, that I just use it regularly on any electrical circuit with contacts.  I do consider it a general purpose wonder product for contact cleaning.
 
Jul 19, 2014 at 1:10 AM Post #7,105 of 14,084
The relays may be before the output stage to not pass DC or pops along to the amp section while coming up. Relays tend to hold up as well as switches or pots but it has to do with the quality of each and really, the earphones only touch at single points as well. Barrel against a perpendicular rounded contact. Also not a fan of high current relays in speaker paths but have no issue with them in relatively low current applications. It generally comes down to using a relay, a coupling cap or some PS/amp compromise. Pick your poison.
 
Jul 19, 2014 at 1:40 AM Post #7,106 of 14,084
I was using a iPhone charger initially and now trying the iPad charger. Is there any button to press to hard reset it? Or should I just keep it plug in? But it shouldn't take so long to charge right? Pretty bummed because I just bought it yesterday and this has to happen. Hoping it's not dead.


Try removing the battery. It happened to me yesterday too. The way I solved mine was to go to device manager uninstall the dx90 drivers, and manually install it back. I used the rockusb driver that came along the batchtool zip.
 
Jul 19, 2014 at 3:07 AM Post #7,109 of 14,084
I've removed the battery, put it back on and same thing. How does removing the drivers help? There's no response when I plug into my computer, and I'm using a Mac.
have you tried a different Usb cable?
 

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