This is the newer and easier way to improve the Max amplifier sections which also improve and somewhat alternate the sound performances. You should consider your favorite Capacitors of choices that best suited you.
The voltage swing is higher than 8V. You are recommended to use 10V minimum. You can go for 47uf/100uf/10V or higher. 47uF has better sub bass textures where as 100uF has more energetic mid bass
This was developed based on Ibasso latest engineering points, and adopted from Ibasso DX300 Amp11 but a little further. The output coupling capacitors are BiCap with either Bipolar or polar capacitors of choices. While space is limited in Dx300, it isn’t an issue with Max. So all 4 caps can enjoy the upgrades. However, the choices of caps can also influences the number of caps that can be upgraded.
I don’t have any official schematic or engineering views of these amplifier from Ibasso, so I am only pulling, soldering, listening, and following the directions that Ibasso had mapped out with their newest designs. This is to yet confirm that Ibasso is using great component of choices and knows exactly what they are doing as Ibasso is the founder and maker, engineering of this platforms. In the mean while, there are indefinite ways to replace components in a way to upgrades or sometime even degrade the player. But using better components are not always resulting in a better performances.
The case in point is that with this MAXW mod, you will find the performances to be improved just about as much as the MAXEX, but a lot simpler and cheaper. You can DIY or ask any electrician to help you with a touch of soldering
The hardest procedure is to take off the back of the Max. You need to heat it up and then using debonder with suctions cups and discarded credit card to pull the back off. It is glued like a smartphone screen would. The fortunate point is that it is flat and square with thick strong glass. You may not easily damage it for sure


Now when you pulled it off, you will see the steel plate that is screwed toward the chassis with 4 Torx screws.
1/Just remove them and then the battery packs
2/pull off the Wifi antenna like Dx220, pull off the screen ribbon connector, then lift off the tab of the ribbon power button and pull out to disconnect
3/ Now you need to remove the amp module
In order to remove the amp module, you will need to follow these steps
A/ pull out the golden volume knob, just use a strong grips and slowly pulling it out
B/ The golden rings on the output are glued toward the chassis which acts as a retainer for the amp board. You will need to push it out using a paper clip or tweezers. After pulling out all of the golden blings, you will unscrew all the internal screws that connect the board to the chassis. Organize it so you know what goes where for assembly
C/ after all screws and connection tabs are disconnected, use your fingers (only) to push the amp board toward the volume know and separate it away from the main board. Do not use any tool as a slip down toward the screen will damage the screen mirror back and you will end up with a damaged screen
D/ after separations, lift it off gently and push it back inward so it can be easily taken off. This will remove the charger circuitry together.

Now, you will have this board, which you will work on to apply MaxW modifications. The Blue wires are Power Supplies wires, 3 of them, +8V Ground -8V. If you upgrade them, they are similar to Powercord upgrade. Stock cables is OCC. You will need to desolder with pump and have materials of choices. If you opt to replace them, make sure you follow the Printed silk screen so to not mess up the polarity
(very important, they are directional, wrong polarity will fry things VEE-AGround-VCC) The black wires are only there to communicate charging status and possibly protections etc...not really matter

Now, the Amp board. There are 2 ways to apply W mod. The first one is to enhance the output coupling on the signals lines. Again, you can use Bipolar or polar capacitors, remember the marked end on the SMD caps on the board is +

or you can apply a further enhanced output from both active lines and ground references

Again, with 4 caps BiCap, the space will be limited, and depends on your preferences and choice of capacitor, you may end up with either 2 or 4 caps in additional
This is a simpler mod than EX mod as it retains all the Ibasso components and upgrading the Powercord with additional BiCap of choices. I have opted for both and can attest that either A or B directions will be an improvements
This will improve the dynamic, bass slams, textures and soundstage.
The 2 BiCap will retain the most of Max house sound while improving textures, details and dynamic where as the 4 BiCap will further alternate the sound further from Max house sound into the choice of your capacitors. It could be more musical or more neutral and detail oriented, depends on your choice of electrolytic, MLCC, or Organic Polymer.
Remember to apply a lot of Flux as the ground plane can dissipate heat quickly and so, crank up your iron temps! These 4 holes are through to the other side with ground plane, so it will be harder to solder on

I call this the MaXW and by the choices of BiCap used. You can call it MaxW1 or MaxW2 with 1 indicate the 2 additional caps and 2 for all 4 caps
If you would love to have meatier timbres density, also consider replacing the 3 main capacitors with Nichicon Organic Polymer 470uf/16V
PLS1C471MD01. These are larger and taller with wider legs spaces. It takes a bit of efforts but it will fit just fine
