DX200/220 Amp8, MAX and other EX modifications
Jul 2, 2021 at 12:45 PM Post #436 of 473
Interesting
IMG_20210703_004447.jpg
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 12:51 PM Post #437 of 473
Hi Whitigir...wondering which 5 valves you mention was to be replaced? Was that canceled because of outdated or by other reason?
And I am also asking help on the un-labeled inductor's inductance... Cause i was screwed up 2 of that by squeeze more cap in my amp8...but i don't have any equipment to test those inductor...so if you can tell me that?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a 500 mb or 1 TB micros SD that works reliably?
 
Jul 16, 2021 at 2:58 AM Post #441 of 473
Jul 28, 2021 at 8:14 PM Post #444 of 473
The battery in my 200Max s bulging, so I would want to replace it for a new one. Better if it is at all possible to get a larger one.

Please recommend me a source if there are ready made ones. Thank you!
In order for you to know that would be that you already opened it, correct?
I would PM whitigir as he moded this the most.

The problem is that you cannot just swap out a battery.
If it is not the exact same one, it will have a different charging board associated with it.
Then you will have to know what the safe parameters are, because the charging parameters are critical for safety of both the unit and the battery.

Both circuit and battery have to be designed for each other.
Larger battery = more current capacity = higher current surge potential if something goes wrong.
So even using original charging circuit may not be designed to handle it.
 
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Aug 17, 2021 at 8:20 PM Post #445 of 473
Hi guys!
A question.
Is an Amp8 with Whitigir mod different sounding than an Amp8EX with Whitigir mod or are they essentially the same?
Amp8W is the simplified modifications which also has some improvements, where as Amp8EX is the ultimate which is extreme in labor and cost but also is superior to Amp8W

The same as MaxW mod. The EX is superior but the cost and labor is extreme where the W mod is a much simplified modifications that fine tune the performances a little bit further without too much works

Steps by steps to disassemble the Max. The hardest is the 1st steps. Some Max has it glued on easier than others. Some may take a lot more efforts. Luckily the glass panel is very tough!!

1/ use liquid debonder carefully, use the sucker to try and pull around the edges to eventually see a little crack enough to slit in separated knife edge. Then use several plastic credit card (better this way) and insert all around. Try to clean up the liquid as much as you can. Use hair dryer to warm it up a little. Slowly working around to separate the back glass. Pay attention toward the mid section as that is where all the glues are. The best place to start finding the edges opening would be toward the amp section

2/ Pull out the volume knob. Also some volume knob may feel funny due to it being a little lose. You can use a little double sided tapes to insert in the slot to make it feel better. Do this slowly, and steadily

3/ remove the screws and start unhooking batteries. Use hands and or plastic/ceramic tweezers !!! Never Metal

4/ use tweezer to slot into between the socket and the Gold rims, these guys are glued on, just work slowly and be patient. You will need to remove these guys , otherwise you can’t disassemble the Boards

5/ remove screws on amp board and the little daughter board. Remove the daughter board first

6/ push the amp board toward the headphones out, and you can take out the amp board together with charger daughter board
 
Aug 17, 2021 at 11:53 PM Post #447 of 473
The moment I combined the amp8 and listened to the genuine mango mode, I felt so good that I felt like I had never heard anything before. The combination of dx220 + amp1 is good, but I felt that it was too bright and sometimes it hurts my ears, but using the amp8, it became much grander and deeper, and at the same time I felt that the overall balance was much better.
 
Aug 19, 2021 at 5:58 AM Post #448 of 473
Updated my amp7 a bit again. This time all tantalum caps are gone from power smoothing. Replaced instead with 3x audio note standard 470uf/25v bicapped with 1uf/63v,0.47uf/63v and small 0.047uf/63v wima Film caps. The line filters remain unchanged 4x audio note kasei bipolars at 22uf/16v.
Thewimas gave more pronounced base and better resolution all around. Also a word of warning for anyone who would be considering the audio note standard. They will sound incredible right from the start up to like 20h mark. At which point they loose completely any base presence whatsoever. And the stay that way till around 100h mark. After which they slowly gain back what they lost and a lot more. Starting to shine again at around 170 till 200h mark. This is where they are enjoyably good sounding again. After that there are no preculior issues with them. The kasei caps exhibit similar behavior but no to such a drastic degree of base lost whyle burning in. Adding film caps to bycap will improve the whole spectrum and give quite a bit more clarity. IMG_20210818_164645.jpgIMG_20210818_164641.jpg
 
Aug 26, 2021 at 3:39 PM Post #450 of 473
@Lurker0 , Sorry for bothering, and thanks for the amazing add-on.
I had recently installed UAPP, but it seems not working perfectly with the add-on.

1) it's fighting with the add-on for the control of dac. So I can only choose UAPP without add-on's bit-perfect, or lurker's hiby.
But there was one time i seems successfully play at uapp with add on's control.

2) the UAPP request to turn on google service for serving. But I guest that is fight against the "force to deep sleep" function?

I had temporarily uninstalled the UAPP cuz the add-on lose the fight all the times xD.
Please tell me if they can survive together or I will just forget about the uapp. (Althoughs it sound pretty good)
 

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