DIY Earbuds
Jun 25, 2021 at 4:29 PM Post #3,692 of 4,718
I did not mean the direct contact of the shell and the wire of the voice coil, but the point of pressure on the part where the opening is.
That's why some shells have a small cut.
Interesting point, haven't thought of it before. When you orient it upwards, there is much more free space for the vent, this is the main reason of the change in signature isnt it?
Most shells don't have this cut, only the ones that have thick lips that potentially get close to the voice coil. One exception for example the dp100 shell which is indeed notorious for breaking the voice coil. This is my theory anyways :D
 
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Jun 25, 2021 at 4:31 PM Post #3,693 of 4,718
I liked the bass of the HF150.
And I felt the HF150 Pro sounded as boring as the so-so earbuds.
(I lost both of them in the disaster now...)
For me, the best soundstage that I have heard so far.
No BS with tuning and shells, just simple black cable, MX500 and horseshoe foam.
I broke my HF150, it was very special to me :heart_eyes: I still keep them in a bag, maybe I'll decide to fix them

:beerchug:
 
Jun 25, 2021 at 4:43 PM Post #3,694 of 4,718
Great collection you have there. :beerchug:
I didn't try Blur buds, but I'm curious: are they really that much better than say 400ohm and 150ohm "red film" models?

Are you solved the issue with 130ohm Bery? I forgot to mention one more easy solution to reduce the highs.
Cut a round piece of medical mask and putt as first layer over the openings on the driver cover, then full foam over and donut at the end (donut is optional).
Visit this post to see changes. I tested only one layer, but you can use more.
On this post you can see how this piece need to look like (see paper filter on image)

I've just added a piece of mask on both. It's better, a way more enjoyable to me :). Need time to listen to them before review my leader board
 
Jun 25, 2021 at 4:47 PM Post #3,695 of 4,718
I've just added a piece of mask on both. It's better, a way more enjoyable to me :). Need time to listen to them before review my leader board
And post some pictures of mod, don be shy :wink:
 
Jun 25, 2021 at 5:26 PM Post #3,696 of 4,718
For me, the best soundstage that I have heard so far.
No BS with tuning and shells, just simple black cable, MX500 and horseshoe foam.
I broke my HF150, it was very special to me :heart_eyes: I still keep them in a bag, maybe I'll decide to fix them

:beerchug:
If you are that crazy about the HE150, why don't you buy it below by using an agent?
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=541083718151
:beerchug:
 
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Jun 25, 2021 at 7:01 PM Post #3,697 of 4,718
Interesting point, haven't thought of it before. When you orient it upwards, there is much more free space for the vent, this is the main reason of the change in signature isnt it?
Not really. The shell at that point has a slope and directs the sound wave down towards the stem opening. Along the way it encounters obstacles: driver housing, cable. This is a very narrow space, although we think the depth of the shell is large. Also, stem vent is always sealed with cable and a small portion of the air passes there
If the driver vent is oriented down, then the wave has an open path with few obstacles, but strikes directly into the posterior wall of the shell and is reflected back
Because of these, we have different resonances for both cases that seem to affect the area around 2K on the freq graph
I was surprised that the driver orientation makes a bigger difference on the graph than changing the filters on the driver and shell.
Most shells don't have this cut, only the ones that have thick lips that potentially get close to the voice coil.
Thick lips puts pressure on the outer edge of the cover so that cracking often occurs but in most cases not driver failure.
More dangerous is the perpendicular pressure where the driver construction joins the cover, especially where the voice coil wire passes.
My HE150, ShoonTH, Tingo TC-200 and OG EMX500 (PK version) are victims of this problem.
One exception for example the dp100 shell which is indeed notorious for breaking the voice coil. This is my theory anyways
Also, MX500 silver , gold and red shells don't have this cut. You can make this cut with scalper or a small file.
 
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Jun 27, 2021 at 12:41 PM Post #3,698 of 4,718
I bought Sony Ericsson HPM-64 Bass Reflex but because of stupid cable I never use it. This is how it looks
sonye cable.jpg


I own black version, driver is very easy to detach from shell. Here is how it looks "under the hood".
BTW... shell material is not so bad, a combination of glossy and matte plastic.

IMG_20210626_235658.jpg

For these buds I use some spare cable that I find in the box, nothing special here. The rubber tail has a very small hole, so you can't use thick cable.
Also It is almost imposible to push the cables through a small hole, so I used a bass reflex port, which is 3 times bigger
I saw some mmcx mod for this bud but they’re not that special for something like that. :wink:

Final look
IMG_20210627_005058.jpg

And measurements. These bugs have an L-shape sound signature
test.jpg
 
Jun 27, 2021 at 1:49 PM Post #3,700 of 4,718
Recently, someone asked me which buds i.e. shell have the best fit. My answer was DOCOMO, but after testing a few vintage buds from my collection,
there was a change in my opinion. Current "comfort & fit king" is AIWA HP-V151 (1996).
Driver size:Frequency response:Impedance:Sensitivity:
16mm8Hz-25KHz16ohm107dBdB

Like Sony Ericsson HPM-64 Bass Reflex, AIWA has the same annoying cable, so I decided to build short cable (70cm) which can match HP-151 colors theme.
I use black & gold wires and YARBO plug, and I follow this method for 4-core cable

Braided_cable_scheme1.jpg

The cables were the easy part, and then the problems started. The main problems with vintage models are:
- they all use thin cable and cable canal has very small diameter
- driver cover is specially designed and there is only one way it can be placed on the shell
- shells consist of several parts, so that separation can occur because the glue that connects them is rotten. In my case, the left driver fell out of the cover.
To solve the first problem, I had to separate the golden part from the shell before I expanded the hole on the stem. By the way, there is a small bass port on this golden part.
aiwa parts.jpg

And this is the final look. Despite the large driver, these headphones fit very well in the ear. The reason for this is the stem, its position, size and shape.

IMG_20210627_102546.jpg

The next good thing about this model is the neutral sound, which is very pleasant for long sessions. On 3K there is a deep that is noticeable, but this can be easily corrected with EQ. All in all one of the better AIWA models for sure

hp-151.jpg
 
Jun 27, 2021 at 1:52 PM Post #3,701 of 4,718
The frequency graphs does not look so bad. Only some high extension is missing. What is the driver diameter in these?
Only that :wink: Is not bad, but it's far away from good. I didn't measure diameter. Around 14mm probably
 
Jun 27, 2021 at 4:06 PM Post #3,702 of 4,718
And now the driver that we all hate ... of course after 300ohm N52 :wink:
I've been deciding for a long time to do this mode, it's not that simple but it's a good challenge, just to kill boredom
So we have 64ohm full Ti aka. "Chief" and "HP" (Heavy Punch) mod
hd.jpg
This mod was inspired by Mr @robar "heavy duty" drilling machine :joy: and Hellboy "Right Hand Of Doom"
1624818053577.png


Funny thing, I was planning to borrow this "monstrosity" from Mr @robar to drill a hole for the cable :joy:
Anyway… I was in a hurry, so for this mod I used next parts:
- pair of MX500 shells which I trimed sanded that detail on the back and drill large hole, basically merging fake vent and cable canal
- pair of small size rivets, shrink tubes (red, green and black)
- YARBO GY-3.5GS-L plug (this is the black one that I used for AIWA cable ) NOTE: this plug has short pin and can't be used with smartphone with mask on.
- 4-core copper wire (hmmm...I lost the link :confused: )
On the driver I use Y3 white tuning paper and for shell you can see on image below.
hp_mod.jpg
Cable wires go around rivet and I add small piece of foam to block wires to touch the back of the shell.
The rivet enters half the depth of the shell, so with the help of a shrink tube I extended this canal all the way to the voice coil hole on the driver.

From this, you can guess what this mode does.
Here is a comparison with the Sony Erikson Bass Reflex, but "Chief" is more powerful and refined driver and produce better sound.
64Ti HP vs Sony E BassReflex.jpg
 
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Jun 28, 2021 at 3:11 PM Post #3,703 of 4,718
This is the update to previous post about 64ohm full Ti HP.
First with Teflon tape I wrap naked part of wire near connection with driver.
I dampened fake side ports with small pieces of EVA foam
Little gaps on the side of the black shrink tube are now stuffed with cotton, and I added cotton inside the tube.
The top piece of horseshoe foam was removed from the shell and placed on top of the driver.

Violet curve represent new tuning. Bass is slightly reduced and is tighter and mids and treble are bring back from "darknes". Bass still plays a major role here

64ohmTiHP.jpg
 
Jun 28, 2021 at 5:02 PM Post #3,704 of 4,718
This is the update to previous post about 64ohm full Ti HP.
First with Teflon tape I wrap naked part of wire near connection with driver.
I dampened fake side ports with small pieces of EVA foam
Little gaps on the side of the black shrink tube are now stuffed with cotton, and I added cotton inside the tube.
The top piece of horseshoe foam was removed from the shell and placed on top of the driver.

Violet curve represent new tuning. Bass is slightly reduced and is tighter and mids and treble are bring back from "darknes". Bass still plays a major role here

Are these the drivers you're talking about?
 

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