[furyossa]

They are custom made of silver plated brass, the price is not said but his other builds on Facebook are around $50-70, but I am sure you may ask

Hmmm.. they are probably very heavy because of brass, for IEM's this is not so much a problem because the cables go over the ear, with earbuds is inconvenient and the cables themselves create an additional load. The price is fine, I think

 

[Themilkman46290]

Hmmm.. they are probably very heavy because of brass, for IEM's this is not so much a problem because the cables go over the ear, with earbuds is inconvenient and the cables themselves create an additional load. The price is fine, I think

Yeah, they are probably a bit heavy, but this doesn't bother me
I started using gator clips a while back, even the heaviest buds stay put with a good clip to fix to your collar

 

[furyossa]

Yeah, they are probably a bit heavy, but this doesn't bother me
I started using gator clips a while back, even the heaviest buds stay put with a good clip to fix to your collar

Great idea.
Take a look at new TECHNICS technology for the driver "air control chamber" which they use for this earbud and TWS.
This is very little space behind the driver, it's similar to headphones when comparing driver size and rear space.
Today we talk about the driver that you posted earlier (for IEM). Some small driver doesn't require big space behind the driver to have a spacious sound.
I'm not talking about standard 15.4mm like "8-pack". This driver sounds too intimate in small shells, like this one even if it has 3 back vents.
These days I was testing some old earbuds (half IEM and half buds) which have minimal cavity size, but the sound is incredibly open and the bass is delicious. I will post some info when I have free time.

 

[usergate]

Is that RY4S Plus or OG version?

plus

They look ridiculous with such a messy MMCX connector installed

Haha, appearance is secondary to me. Look at my first diy:

These drivers. Less demanding on source power than gold smabats and less even sound, they are light. The bass is normal for earbuds, I'm sure you can work on it. But purity and air in sound ... These drivers also have the most powerful magnets (neodymium?), Rarely seen among earbuds, but my experience is rather modest.
This topic is extremely useful, your messages are especially appreciated.

 

[Vannak]

Couldn't wait much longer, I ordered the 68ohm graphene with metal mesh cover....

I have also finished tuning my 64ohm composite,
It came out better then expected, very good micro details and sub bass is nice and rumbly

So I guess if I was rating them then 130ohm "8pack" and 400ohm graphene are tied for number one spot with the 64ohm composite is in second place, then the 500ohm and 600ohm

Should have the 300ohm with the 9u diaphragm soon, I hope they are worth it

I just finished my 68 ohm graphene
Still with the stock tuning (I don't know how to modify tuning yet)
The sound very crisp and clear and has big but not bloated bass
Just a first few songs

 

[furyossa]

plus

Haha, appearance is secondary to me. Look at my first diy:

These drivers. Less demanding on source power than gold smabats and less even sound, they are light. The bass is normal for headphones, I'm sure you can work on it. But purity and air in sound ... These drivers also have the most powerful magnets (neodymium?), Rarely seen among earbuds, but my experience is rather modest.
This topic is extremely useful, your messages are especially appreciated.

I think that most DIY drivers use neodymium but different strength (N48, N50, N52, N55)
By looking at your mod, please tell me, are your MMCX sockets attached to the shell at all?

 

[furyossa]

I just finished my 68 ohm graphene
Still with the stock tuning (I don't know how to modify tuning yet)
The sound very crisp and clear and has big but not bloated bass
Just a first few songs

That's the sound of graphene
Leave it for a while to "break-in" and then you can tune it if there is a need for it

 

[Vannak]

That's the sound of graphene
Leave it for a while to "break-in" and then you can tune it if there is a need for it

Thanks!

 

[SiggyFraud]

I just finished my 68 ohm graphene
Still with the stock tuning (I don't know how to modify tuning yet)
The sound very crisp and clear and has big but not bloated bass
Just a first few songs

Is this the driver you used?

 

[usergate]

By looking at your mod, please tell me, are your MMCX sockets attached to the shell at all?

This is a 2-pin. Heat shrinkage. Did temporarily, I will redo, someday ... .

 

[Vannak]

Is this the driver you used?

Yes!
From nsc audio store

 

[Themilkman46290]

What ever you guys do, don't by the plastic chrome shell, I had tried to use them on the 600ohm and the driver broke, later I tried them on the 500ohm and a driver broke, this was last spring and I had forgotten, today I noticed the shells and had wanted to try the 400ohm in them, then the driver broke...... I inspected further and noticed the lip on it is 16mm not 15.4mm, it also has a sharper edge that keeps clipping /snapping my voice coil leads..
Sucks..
These are the ones
The edge is also thicker then others.
I loved me 400ohm drivers, I just wanted to try them in the mx500 shells since someone on here said they felt it the best option.
Before the drivers broke I can say the wood shell sounded better but I wasn't finished tuning yet

 

[furyossa]

What ever you guys do, don't by the plastic chrome shell, I had tried to use them on the 600ohm and the driver broke, later I tried them on the 500ohm and a driver broke, this was last spring and I had forgotten, today I noticed the shells and had wanted to try the 400ohm in them, then the driver broke...... I inspected further and noticed the lip on it is 16mm not 15.4mm, it also has a sharper edge that keeps clipping /snapping my voice coil leads..
Sucks..
These are the ones
The edge is also thicker then others.
I loved me 400ohm drivers, I just wanted to try them in the mx500 shells since someone on here said they felt it the best option.
Before the drivers broke I can say the wood shell sounded better but I wasn't finished tuning yet

I'm sorry to hear that. I know how much you loved those drivers.
I have a few "favorite" drivers that I also broke but I couldn't throw them away, I'm looking to find the right way to separate them from the cover but not to destroy the cover

It all started with the release of the Tingo model. An alloy of aluminum and plastic is used for the original shell, which increases the sound characteristics.
Then many manufacturers started copying these shells by producing some nonsensical MX500 (not work with 15.4mm) models with acrylic silver, gold paint. The paint peels off very easily. Model Tingo TC400 (gold and red metallic paint) not have any "lip", they glued the driver on the shell. TC400 uses one of those shells
that just looks like an MX500.
I understand when some custom metal shell does not have the right size for 14.8mm and 15.4mm drivers but it's a shame that someone produces plastic shells
that mimic the look of shells that we 100% know is compatible with PK and MX500 drivers.

 

[Merlin-PT]

What ever you guys do, don't by the plastic chrome shell, I had tried to use them on the 600ohm and the driver broke, later I tried them on the 500ohm and a driver broke, this was last spring and I had forgotten, today I noticed the shells and had wanted to try the 400ohm in them, then the driver broke...... I inspected further and noticed the lip on it is 16mm not 15.4mm, it also has a sharper edge that keeps clipping /snapping my voice coil leads..
Sucks..
These are the ones
The edge is also thicker then others.
I loved me 400ohm drivers, I just wanted to try them in the mx500 shells since someone on here said they felt it the best option.
Before the drivers broke I can say the wood shell sounded better but I wasn't finished tuning yet

It happened to me with good generic mx500 shells.
Now I use a very small round metal file to make a small dip in the mx500 shell, so I don't break the wires of the drivers I like or that are more expensive. With the cheap ones I take the risk, but it never happened again.

Here an (old) photo of the 130ohm membrane (from one driver with cut wires, I couldn't solder them back):

 

[furyossa]

It happened to me with good generic mx500 shells.
Now I use a very small round metal file to make a small dip in the mx500 shell, so I don't break the wires of the drivers I like or that are more expensive. With the cheap ones I take the risk, but it never happened again.

Here an (old) photo of the 130ohm membrane (from one driver with cut wires, I couldn't solder them back):

Most shells has that small dip and some not, but that's not the only problem here.
Some shells have lips on the side that widen the driver cover when trying to place it on the shell. Sometimes the cover cracks damage the driver